Uwe

This composite from the Juki DU-141NH parts diagram may be closer to what your machine looks like. I've arranged the parts so that the pin points directly at the part it's supposed to be touching.

Does your reverse lever still work? If that stitch length adjustment shaft with the round tip doesn't touch anything, that's likely a problem. Those pins normally provide a stop for the reverse lever movement, both top and bottom. Normally when you adjust the stitch length, the reverse lever also moves up and down a little. The problem may well be with the part that normally touches that pin. Your reverse lever is likely pegged at the top for maximum stitch length. If the reverse lever still works, then your stitch length pins isn't providing a stop for the reverse lever. Maybe a set screw came loose. Below's a picture that shows how many machines are designed. The part in question is #2 - that's the part that is supposed to be resting against the pin as it is rotated by the reverse lever. The parts diagram below is from a Juki DLU-490, which may not even be close to your machine. Do you know which Nakajima or Juki model your Rex is a copy of? A proper parts diagram will be valuable in determining what's supposed to be where.

If you're not fond of googling things, call one of the banner vendors and get the full service treatment for a little extra. For self-service, try this approach: The Consew 227R-2 Manual specs the hook assembly as part number 13086. Typing "13086 hook" into the Ebay search window comes up with this nice OEM Seiko hook for $22.49 (Consew machines were built by Seiko back then):

I'm striking out on Pfaff 438 user manuals as well. Usually it's other way around, that user manual is available but service manual is not. Perhaps the user manual for the successor model Pfaff 938 ( Pfaff 938 User Manual.pdf ) is useful. It doesn't look like the threading or that confounding looking zig-zag dial have changed much from the Pfaff 438 model.

Yes, they're essentially the same machine head with very subtle differences. Both are Juki TSC-441 clones. TechSew 5100 is a third option, by the way. The Cobra 4 already has mounting holes on the back for a swing-down edge guide, in case that matters to you. Table, motor, and bundled accessory packages will vary between the options, as will pricing, shipping, and customer service to some degree.

As I was taking pictures for the Adler 205 hook timing topic, I noticed my spare hook actually had one of these elusive springs inside. I took a picture to document the occasion. I never knew what I was missing in all those hooks, I suppose. I ordered two dozen of those springs from my supplier. That should last me a while and make my bobbins jump for joy in the various machines that use the same spring.

As diyer mentioned above, the Durkopp Adler 205 service manual ( DA-205-370-Service-Manual.pdf) describes, among other things, how to set the needle bar height. Below are two screenshots for quick reference. From that paragraph above, I find actually hard to visualize what they mean. The German version is cryptic, and the translation didn't improve it. Here are a few pictures that show how your needle and tip of the hook should to be aligned for proper needle bar height according to the service manual. When the tip of the hook peeks a tiny bit past the needle, the bottom of the hook and the top of the eye of the needle should line up. I re-edited a video I made some time ago that shows how this looks in on the machine in slow motion. It also shows how the eye of the needle, when the needle is at its lowest point, does not dip below the outer diameter of the hook driver. That's what they mean in that awkwardly worded "Note" in the instructions above. In the video the needle is actually a tad lower than what the specs call for, but the machine sure was making beautiful, reliable stitches. So there's a little bit of wiggle room.

Upon further review (a.k.a. fact checking my own statements) it turns out that Adler 205 hooks have the inner bobbin case springs, but the Juki TSC-441 class hooks do not. Here are two pages from my 2016 Weaver catalog. The Adler 205 spare parts page does list the "Inner Bobbin Case Spring" (Item 11, part number 367-15-027-0: The Ferdco Pro 2000 switched from using actual Juki TSC-441 machines to made-in-Taiwan clones in 1995. It's possible that Ferco added an inner bobbin case spring as part of their enhancements. If you feel you really need that spring, you can order the Adler 205 version from Weaver - it should work just fine in the Juki 441 hook. The spare parts page for Weaver's Juki TSC-441 clone does not list a bobbin spring:

We also need to consider the distinct possibility that the 441 style shuttle hooks simply do not have bobbin case springs, by design. If you pop out the bobbin case in the position shown below (on my Adler 205), gravity is your spring and the bobbin will simply fall out. I've looked at a fair number of shuttle hooks, and I can't remember seeing a single one that had a bobbin spring inside. Some vertical axis flatbed bobbin cases definitely have these kinds of springs, but those are usually called out in the parts diagrams. Even then, not all hook variations within a class use the springs (Example: JUKI LU-SERIES HOOK PARTS.pdf).

Post some close-up pictures of your machine and some stitch samples when you get a chance. Achievements like that need to be documented!

The problem with some used machine pricing is that often you only hear from folks who got some wicked good deal. It's a little like people who only brag how much they won at the casino - they usually don't talk about how much they lost during the previous ten visits. This sets unrealistic expectations, I think. Don't let stories of super-bargains keep you from buying a machine you need to run your business or enjoy your hobby. The only real price guide on Ebay are SOLD listings, but quite often the sample size is too small to be meaningful, but it's better than nothing. The main problem with Ebay is the russian roulette of shipping by people who've never packaged a sewing machine for shipping before. Many perfectly nice sewing machines have died in transit. In general, at least in my opinion, a vintage original in nice cosmetic shape and perfect working condition is worth as much as a new made-in-china clone. The nice original will be worth about the same five years from now if you take care of it (it doesn't make much difference whether a vintage machine is 20 or 25 years old.) That new clone on the other hand will be worth considerably less in five year's time. Certain popular models also have a higher price on the used market simply because of supply and demand. A lot of people with small-bobbin machines have a hankering for a large-bobbin machine. Once they get one, they don't want to part with it. If the CL lottery is not working out for you in your area, you can check with a reputable dealer of used machines. The main one I use for rough price guides is Advanced Sewing (http://advancedsewing.com/usedsewingmachines/juki.html) Their inventory spread sheet shows they have two dozen Juki LU-563 machines in stock as of March 2017. I'd ask them for a quote for a head only. They may be in your comfort zone. I've personally not bought a machine from them, but I came very close to making a day trip to Pittsburgh to look at their inventory when I was shopping for Juki LS-341. They were also one of the very few used machine dealers present at the TexProcess trade show in Atlanta last May. Best of luck in your search for a nice 563!

To my knowledge there is no single machine that handles sewing tasks from two layers of lambskin up to nearly an inch (!) of layered material. You're looking at two machines at the very least to span that range. The Campbell Lock Stich is neither of those two machines, I'm afraid. If your budget exceed $15,000 I think a Durkopp Adler 269 paired with a Durkopp Adler H-Type 969 make a nice pair to cover your desired range. Durkopp Adler 269 Durkopp Adler H-Type 969: If your budget is less than $15K, you may have to dial back your specs a little or get creative with two or three used machines or clones. For about $5K you can get a nice new Juki-341 clone and a Juki TSC-441 clone, which will get you 90% there. Used machines are cheaper, but more of a gamble unless you get them from a reputable dealer.

Have you tried these steps I had listed above? 1. Turn the handwheel until tip of descending needle is level with top of throat plate 2. Loosen purple arrow screw (Both feet will drop to be level with throat plate) 3. Tighten purple-arrow screw again. 4. Verify full turn with no bind We'll need to see some pictures or a short video to see what's going on. We're just doing a lot of guessing based on vague descriptions.

If your Consew 227R-2 is a re-badged Seiko CW8B-2 (check inside for Seiko branded parts), I wouldn't dismiss it just yet. Try adjusting your 227 for maximum and equal alternating foot lift as it walks. The Seiko CW8B specs state a alternating foot lift of up to 5.5mm, which is about the same as my Juki LS-341 (and likely the same for Cobra Class 26). Your Consew 227R-2 may just be able to climb up and down your seams after all. Presser foot design and stitch length also play a role in how willingly the feet will climb up or down big steps. If your Consew 227R-2 can't step onto the seams, the Juki LS-341 and Cobra Class 26 machines will very likely struggle, too. The next step up from that general class of machines is the Juki TSC-441 and its various clones. Here are pictures of my Juki LS-341 adjusted for maximum alternating foot lift (about 5.5mm.)

The above adjustment should also equalise foot lift. Try the adjustment above and then check if foot lift is equalized. If not, try these steps: 1. Turn the handwheel until tip of descending needle is level with top of throat plate 2. Loosen purple arrow screw (Both feet will drop to be level with throat plate) 3. Tighten purple-arrow screw again. 4. Verify full turn with no bind In a well-adjusted walking foot machine everything lines up at the top of throat plate level at the exact same time in the cycle. That's the standard adjustment. A you turn the handwheel, when the tip of the descending needle is level with the top of the throat plate, the ascending feed dog is also level with top of throat plate. Both Presser feet are level with top of throat plate. I show this foot lift equalizing step on a Juki LU-563 in this video starting at the 4:00 minute mark:

I was able to get my machine to bind and stop turning over just by adjusting it to max foot lift (turning the worm screw counter-clockwise all the way after loosening set screw.) I had taken my machine head apart a few days ago for cleaning, so I know for sure nothing else was interfering. You don't have to take your machine head apart to fix the bind, I just took the pictures like this to show only the parts that matter. Of course you can also back off the foot lift adjustment worm screw a little bit until there is no more bind. The adjustment shown below should avoid the possibility of dialing in a foot lift amount that causes a bind condition. Here's the picture of how my machine bound up at max foot lift and how I fixed it. Timing-wise, when the main shaft points straight down (blue line), the foot lift arm should be in its right-most position (yellow arrow). This should give you equal foot lift This is also where the foot lift arm may touch the housing and cause a bind condition (red star). There should be a tiny gap between the foot lift arm and housing in this position. Fix: 1. Loosen the screw (purple arrow) 2. Turn the handwheel until the main shaft points straight down (blue line) 3. Adjust foot lift arm to have a tiny gap to housing 4. Tighten screw (purple arrow) Turn the hand wheel a full turn to verify fix

The two machines have come up in several previous discussions. One notable difference is the fact that the LU-1508 usually costs drastically more, almost twice as much as the DNU-1541. I don't think we ever really figured out where the price difference comes from. It can't be just the different hook orientation/design.

Well, I learned something new today. Thank you for prompting that lesson, Ole South! I take back what I said earlier - what you did was not some grave mistake. I was thinking of the other almost-but-not-quite identical machines in that class (e.g. Consew 225, which has a different mechanism for foot lift height adjustment.) The relative foot lift height is adjusted similar to what I described above in the 1. 2. 3. step picture, but the total foot lift is indeed adjusted via that worm screw on the eccentric on the main shaft. There are various scans of that manual floating around, some of them with really poor picture scans. Here's one that has very good detail in the pictures: Singer Class 111 Instructions.pdf , just so we all look at the same instructions. I just pulled out my SInger 111W155 project machine to take a closer look. I'll report back.

Now I'm really curious. Can you post a picture or scan of that section in the manual?

Ouch, that was probably a mistake, I'm sorry to say. That is one setting that almost never needs to be (or should be) adjusted after the machine leaves the factory, unless you replace the main shaft. Press the "undo" button.

That Springfield Leather statement about the Cobra Class 26 being "basically a scaled down version of the Cobra Class 4" is just a bit misleading. It's a smaller cylinder arm machine, yes, but it shares almost no design details with the Cobra Class 4. Some clone manufacturers tweak certain details when they make a clone, so specs can vary to some degree.

The Cobra Class 26 is a copy of the Juki LS-341 design. TechSew 2750 and Cowboy CB341 are other clone options for that same machine. Personally I really like that machine design. The Juki LS-341N engineer's manual (Juki_LS-341N_Engineers_Manual.pdf) and the Juki LS-341N Instruction manual ( Juki LS-341N InstructionManual.pdf) should match the Cobra Class 26 (and the other clones) very closely. It contains specs and other useful details.

The oil pump system on my Adler 467 appears to work just fine, even at slow speeds. The oil drips from the little brass tube inside the head a little slower when I sew at slow, count-along speeds, but oil does flow and drip every few seconds. At least on my machine I think the 467 pump oiling system would be just fine for sewing at slow to moderate speeds, really. It won't hurt to do the occasional high speed bobbin wind or empty run.

I have some flat-top harness maker throat plates that work with the feed dog in place and fit both Adler 205 and Juki TSC-441 class machines. I call them UTP205HM for the Adlers and UTP441HM for the 441 class of machines. They're the exact same plate. The naming difference stems from the fact that I just recently discovered that they also work on the 441 machines. The price is $59 and includes shipping within the U.S. For international buyers, please look in my Ebay store (http://stores.ebay.com/uwe) in the "Throat Plates and Feed Dogs" section. Ebay's Global Shipping Program (GSP) handles all the shipping and customs details and is actually cheaper than I can ship things directly. On the Adler 205-370 (and clones) you can use your original throat plate mounting screws. For use on 441 class machines, I'll include two small washers for under the screws (the 441 throat plate screws have a smaller head and a different thread pitch). I hope to find a source soon for screws that will work on 441 class machines without a washer. I have a limited number of these plates on hand and won't be able to order more once they're gone. I acquired them as part of a larger inventory purchase and I don't actually know who made these plates. Here's the throat plate mounted on an Adler 205-370 (UTP205HM): This picture shows the throat plate mounted on a Cowboy 4500 (UTP441HM):

I made a second prototype of the hand lever extension. This one looks a bit more polished, has improved ergonomics and a pretty red dot to aim your thumb at! I'll probably make a handful of them later in March and see if somebody will buy one.