Uwe

You brought that Adler 467 back to life from cardiac arrest, Eric. Nobody faults the volunteer lifesaver for cracking a rib in the process - it'll heal. Not that you cracked any ribs, really. The point was that the "refurbished" Adler 467 originally arrived at the customer in a state of cardiac arrest and imminent death. The limbs of the machine were still moving but the life-giving fluid (oil) was no longer circulating.

The "sewing slow" part is really about the motor and a speed reducer pulley. Servo motors and speed reducers are your friend if you want to sew slow. Any industrial walking foot machine can sew slow with those two. The rest is about how thick of a stack of leather you intend to sew. Proper walking foot with triple top/bottom/needle "unison" feed is pretty much a given. Whatever you do, don't start complaining about the machine marking your leather. Few people care about the marks on the leather when they see the gun in that holster, or the bible in that cover.

Johny Cash, apparently: http://www.azlyrics.com/lyrics/johnnycash/folsomprisonblues.html I'm guessing they are getting at the fact that the news about a "refurbished" Adler 467 from Nick-O-Sew is gonna hit you like a freight train. Of course the sample size of "1" in that particular experience is rather small and may not be statistically relevant - "your mileage may vary". But it sure was doozy (or "Duesy" as in Duesenberg?) Oy! All that cultural background for obscure references, it takes a lifetime and then some to catch up, being an import myself. I usually just highlight and then right-click-search-with-google.

Since you asked what I think, let me also say that I think descriptive topic titles are helpful. Something like "Thread tension problems in reverse on a Pfaff 38-6" contains considerably more relevant information and gets the right people involved. Before I get lectured on free speech and start another topic derailment, let me point out that of course everybody has constitutional/god-given/human right to start a topic with whatever they choose to say and nobody can make them use descriptive topic titles if they don't feel like it.

Well in the early days of Coca Cola, just a touch of real cocaine gave Coca Cola the desired medicinal effect and pick-me up. Those days are long gone. I think it's the acids or preservatives that do the cleaning. I remember people experimenting by putting a small piece of red meat in Coca Cola and the meat would be gone/dissolved after just a few days. I'm not dunking/submerging my machine in Coca Cola . I don't want the stuff to get in places I don't want it. It may also dissolve my timing belt, who knows.

In a properly adjusted machine the bobbin tension should not change significantly when switching from forward to reverse. You should not have to adjust thread tension when switching direction. Adjusting the top tension may only fix the symptom and not the root cause. It's all relative when it comes to thread tension. Either the bobbin tension gets tighter (or binds?) or the top tension gets loose for some reason. I suspect the trouble originates in the bobbin/hook area. The bobbin tension may appear to be tight in reverse for various reasons. Perhaps the thread struggles to wrap around the bobbin, or the bobbin case opener doesn't quite work as well in reverse (or not at all), perhaps a loose screw causes some thread passageway to open or close slightly when changing direction. I'd tilt the machine back and closely observe what's happening underneath as you make a few hand-turned stitches both forward and reverse. I little close-up video with a decent phone camera is worth about 15 postings, in my experience. I'm just guessing at some of these things, I don't have the machine in front of me. As for the take-up spring, the rule I read somewhere is that the spring should rest on the adjustable support and no longer pull on the thread the moment the eye of the needle enters the material. I'm not sure if this is a general rule or if it was a machine specific one. Check the basics, too. Properly threaded? Bobbin spin direction OK? Top thread release works when lifting the presser feet? Needle/thread size a good match? Needle-to-hook timing good?

Sold

Looks great! I'll have to try the Coca Cola approach on my next project.

I always buy bobbins by original part number. I found it's the most reliable method to get bobbins (and other parts) that REALLY work in your machine. Many sewing machine manufacturers publish no information about their bobbins other than the bobbin's part number. I'm not sure why they're so secretive about that topic. A size "G" bobbin may be the closest match to that part number, and if somebody makes a bobbin that's a close match to a "G" size, the two "close" steps may add up to trouble. The Adler/Chandler 67GK373 Parts List shows the bobbin with part number "068 00 180 0" : Ask your favorite vendor for that part number to get what you really need. I order many small bits and pieces from Sharp Sewing on ebay, one of my personal go-to vendors for these things:

Forgive me, Master Eric, but this old padawan is wondering about that 9/32" needle rise figure for hook timing. It seems much higher (3x) than other machines of very similar head design. Is this due to the hook design or larger needle bar stroke?

If I were you, I'd be REALLY nice to my aunt with the Adler 267GK373. It should be perfect for sewing upholstery type projects. Don't know much about that TacSew, other than it's a clone of sorts and has zigzag. If you don't want the Adler, I'll take it - just sayin' :-)

So do the diagrams and illustrations in the Juki manual correspond to what your Cobra 4 looks like? Going through the manual in sequence and comparing your Cobra 4's adjustments with what they should be should tell you what is off, how to adjust it, and where the set screws are. It's one of the best service manuals I've come across.

The 135x17 needle system dimension for beedle butt to top of eye is a full 5mm longer (38.9mm) than the 135x7 (33.9mm), according to this Needle system chart A previous owner may have changed adjustments to make it work with the longer needle. If you're switching back to the shorter original, you will likely have to go through the full hook timing adjustment procedure to have a chance of it working properly. I'm curious how you could tell the needle in the machine was a 135x17? None of my needles from three different manufactures (Organ, Schmetz. Grotz-Beckert) have needle SYSTEM markings on the needle itself, just size markings.

The Juki TSC-441 Service Manual describes how to adjust this class of machine (Needle-to-hook/shuttle distance adjustment is on page 4&5). Depending on how faithful the Cobra 4 clone really is to the original, it may be helpful.

There may be no such thing available online, based on a few minutes of research. However, the Pfaff 145 appears to be a very close relative and 90% identical in the hook area to the Adler 67, so my timing video for the Adler 67 may get you most of the way there: The general guidelines for hook timing don't vary all that much from one machine to another close relative. In fact one sentence probably gets you close enough for government work: "The needle rises about 1.8mm from the bottom when the hook meets the needle in the middle of the scarf as close as possible without touching". The needle guard should also touch the needle when the hook picks up the thread. In the absence of a service manual for your exact machine, the next best thing are instructions for a very close relative of the machine (or predecessor/successor, e.g. Pfaff 145->545->1245). The only value that really changes is the needle rise for hook timing. The 1,8mm is a good starting point for your machine. It determines how well the hook catches the loop AND how well the thread is able to wrap around the bobbin. If the needle rise is too high, the thread will be too tight or bind/snap when wrapping around the bobbin, if needle rise is too low, thread will be loose while wrapping around the bobbin or the loop may not be big enough for the hook to catch reliably. I found this out when timing my Consew 225 using faulty service instructions (the Keystone manual for the Consew 225 states 3/16" needle rise for hook timing when it should be 3/32"). Tilt the machine back and make a few stitches turning the wheel by hand and closely observing what's happening. A well adjusted machine in your class of machines should look like this: Make sure you use the correct needle system for your machine. The Pfaff 145 H3 should use the 134-35 needle system, according to manual linked earlier. Using the wrong needle system will really mess you up no matter how you adjust the machine.

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/505004/Pfaff-145.html

So that seemingly simple statement can be interpreted two totally opposing ways. Did Singer have originals that were copied the most BY others, or were Singer machines mostly copied FROM others? It seems that Singer has a popular reputation of being an "original." But I've also heard people comment that SInger hardly invented anything original at all, but mostly copied and borrowed from others to build their empire. I don't know which version is closer to the truth, actually.

Wow, respect, Mr. dikman! You got mad maker skills and access to cool machinery. There seems to be much emphasis in many designs (including mine so far) to make sure that the shaft holding the two pulleys does NOT move, ever (other than rotate around the shaft's axis). I'm contemplating a version where the shaft is not fixed at all but moving freely on a track or pivot arm. I think we only need the shaft holding the two pulleys to not twist/yaw. Two opposing belts should hold it in place just fine.

I've not seen one and I'm afraid it would be like Game of Thrones with a bunch of characters claiming to be the true kings and having the place run wild with bastard children. There are just a few seemingly clear "Luke, I am your father" examples with prominent originals like Juki TSC-441 and Durkopp Adler 205 that have sired and bunch of undisputed offspring. The Juki TSC-441 itself apparently was an answer to the Adler 205. Another popular class of machines Singer 111/Consew 225/ Juki 562/etc. and other variants, I have no clue which came first. I read some story about a prolonged, nasty patent battle in court over who invented the "first" sewing machine. This was around the time of the American Civil War. I was convoluted and confusing, and apparently it only got worse from there. Part of the problem is the 150ish years of history, mixed with murky international patent laws, combined with two world wars and dismantled factories and a decades-long orgy of corporate mergers and acquisitions. It would be easier to write a definitive history of dog breeds. All we know for sure that ten thousand years ago there were only wolves. What exact lineage led to pugs? Who knows!

We saw a counselor and decided to work out our differences rather than separate.

Folks, please take a moment to update your LW profile so we can tell where you are located at! Don't make us guess and recommend products you can't buy.

I'm using Marvel's Mystery Oil to clean my machines. It works well to dissolve old crud and dried oil varnish. It's basically diesel oil that doesn't look or stink like diesel oil.

Here's a little demo video that shows what the machine can and cannot do right now, and how to change needles and such. What exactly happens under that needle plate is still a mystery to me and it needs some work to fix the occasionally tangles it makes right now. Installing new castoffs and needle braces would be a good first step. There's a also some art and science regarding exactly which needle and thread size combinations works best. Obviously I've not figured that out yet - perhaps the new owner will. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5exta7l5l0

It's less about actual size than ratios between pulleys. A 2"/4"inch speed reducer pulley combo will have the same 2:1 speed-reducing effect as a 3"/6" combo. One popular commercial version actually has a three-in-one pulley : 3"/6"/9": So depending on which two pulleys you put your belts on, you get a 1.5:1 (9":6"), 2:1 (6":3"), or 3:1 (9":3") ratio of speed reduction and torque increase. Unless you're really into into wandering the aisles of your local hardware store and hours of tinkering, I highly recommend a commercial version. They're much easier to install and not much more expensive than home-made versions in my experience. $130-$150 seems like a lot for two pieces of painted cast iron and a bearing, but I've yet to find a considerably better or cheaper alternative. The only really cheaper way to reduce speed and increase torque is to change just the pulley on your motor to a smaller one. My Enduro motors come with 5" pulleys. Installing a 2" pulley is only $5 or so, but provides a very cheap 2.5:1 ratio improvement for speed reduction and torque increase. If you want to go REALLY slow and REALLY high-torque, you do both, swap the motor pulley out for a smaller one AND install a speed reducer pulley BETWEEN the motor and machine. Changing out the hand wheel on the machine is usually not a practical option.

I wanted to love her and I we really tried, but we decided to part ways on good terms and pursue other interests. The last picture is from when I picked her up in Dayton, Ohio. I got this famed stitcher a few months ago and I had grand plans for it (red, white, and blue stitch lines in all sorts of patriotic themes). Alas, it turns out I'm neither a three-needle nor a chain stitch person. If that guy from that red wing shoes video is a close, personal friend of yours, you're all set. She deserves a good home with somebody who will love her and buy her diamonds (or needles and awls, which turn out to cost roughly the same) I'm including $150 worth of needles and awls (9 size 3 awls, 9 size 2 needles) which I bought directly from Puritan. I also made a new stainless steel throat plate, but it only works with thinner needles/awls than what I have (on the plus side it will last way longer than the original throat plate I have). I got her to stitch a single row nicely, but three rows is a little like juggling, and it turns out I'm not a good juggler, either. I have her set up on a test bench with a servo motor and I'd be happy to demo her for you. The setup is not really intended for production or actual use, so I'm selling the stitcher just by itself. I installed a little three-thread lube pot, but you can easily revert to the included original half-ton lube pot. She's a Rubenesque girl with a road-hugging weight of well over 100 lbs and will need special accommodations if you intend to have her shipped. I'll bolt her to a pallette, but shipping arrangements are up to you. Live the dream for $950.