David

Mikey, Please post some photos...I'm dying to see a sheath with 6 layers of leather....that has GOT to be cool Dave

Ahhh, big shovels no troubles.....shovelheads rule! Dave

Also KK, if you have covered before, I apologize for asking again, How do you do the "piping" around the outside of your wallets?....It is a wonderful way to finish off the edge. Will you do a tutorial for us on wallet making? Dave Theobald

KK Very very nice looking. I see the elephant, and the frog modified cross....what is the smooth leather applique? Is it a calf skin kip or pigskin? Dave Theobald

Hey Johnny, They teach you in design school that the lettering that is easiest to read is the stuff than reads normally and the worst is the lettering that is vertical. Anything other that horizontal is not as clear as it could be.....so I guess what I'm saying is; blame my graphics prof at UC. lol.... Thanks for looking at the seat.

Hey Busted, They are going for a real "back in the day" cruiser bike here. Carry lots a gas and tear up a lot of pavement between fill ups. The real feature here is the raised rear axle that lowers the bike almost 2 1/2" lower than stock. It makes for a really low center of gravity that makes it feel like you're on rails. Take a look at "Slim"....that's your style tank. You'll note that their chief designer is in love with those big 21" fronts. I've become so accustomed to the look that I think the smaller fronts look strange. That big 21er front tire reminds me of the board track racer look. I like it a lot. Don't get me wrong they do plenty of bikes with a fat 16 up front....(my son's even building one now) but for my money....I'll take that 21 every time. Oh yeah check out those C&C wheels on Slim. With matching rotors even. Thanks for looking at the seat. Here's my son's newest creation...in the works. It will have those 5 gal fat tanks on it. Dave Theobald

Hey Spider, Thanks for looking at the seats. The colors are Tandy Pro dye medium brown around the edge fading to buckskin in the center of the seat....Sheridan antiquing paste was then added. Dave Theobald

This last weekend's weather was barely warm enough to apply stain in my garage.....So I finally finished up this seat. Dave

I do all my stain work outside....(in the garage) because it just smells too bad to do a bunch of seats in my shop in the basement....we finally got a break in the weather and had a day in the 40's this weekend. So I was able to finish this seat.

Welcome to the forum. David

Welcome Panther, Very nice work David

1 I don't use any glue on my seats....the foam from Foam and More 1925 W. Maple, Troy, MI 48084, 248-284-0002, comes with an adhesive back that is incredibly strong. 2.Can't shape neoprene with files....I use an electric carving knife....the two blade variety. 3.I make most of my templates out of file folders. 4.Oils....neatsfoot or Lexol....waxes....Leather balm with atom wax or Aussie conditioner...tandy for both. 5.I only buy leather I can look at first....I have a Tandy close. 6.Jim Downey for Kangaroo lace. Box 30 Skull Valley, AZ. 86338 928-925-3365...I use 1/4" If you are going to do a lot of seats.....I agree with the air riveter idea....But do a dozen by hand first....you'll discover if you really need one...If it takes you a year to get a dozen orders....then $140 for an air riveter is not a good idea. If you're getting a dozen orders a month...by all means get the air poweded one. David Theobald

Jim, My guess is that you are going to get a lot of differing opinions on this one. I'll go for the Tandy Pro Dye. I think the oil dye tends to crock way too much. Regardless of oil or pro (spirit) I'd add at least one coat of neat Lac when done. My plan of attack, Saddle soap Deglazer Neatsfoot/lexol wait at least a day dye Neat Lac Dave

My seats are nearly all done on the slim line West Eagle pan.....all have been used on Harley Davidsons except one that I did with the POW MIA art on it. The builder modified his frame mounts to accept it. Dave

All the discussion about foot pegs, handle bars etc. is important to ride comfort but is pretty much out of the control of most seat makers, I have the pans provided to me, I don't know if Beeze makes his own pans or gets them from his customers; but I suspect the later. That means that comfort with regard to riding position is out of the seat makers control. I alway tell customers that I am a leatherworker not a steel fabricator. Come up with a solo springer pan and I'll make you a seat. I say springer because I dry lace my seats with a front and back hide; beeze wet molds his seats and has a front and side hides. My hands just won't do the wet molding thing anymore. Dave

You want neoprene for the seat foam....the gel seat pads are only 3/4" thick. but you could put 3/4" neoprene on the pan, then another 3/4" on top of that with a cutout for the gel...then add about 1/8" neoprene on top of every thing. Should get you the results you want. Neoprene is available in a variety of thicknesses and there is one place Foam and More in Michigan that will put a self adhesive on the back for you. But by all means use neoprene, it is the stuff the use to pad lawn furniture and boat seats....it will not retain water. Dave Theobald

OOPS, I said Urathane, I meant neoprene. sorry for any confusion. Dave

GH, I can't speak for everyone because the final opinion depends upon who is giving you that opinion. With regard to my seats Jeff Cochran one of the founders of Sucker Punch Sallys rides one of my seats from here to the Smokeout in NC every year. Donny Loos the other founder also rides one of my seats.... Super Dave who works at SPS won't ride one of my seats for a city block. My son has had one of my seats on his ride for nearly two years. So go figure.....if your have a tender butt....maybe my seats aren't for you. If you are riding an older Harley with thick soft padding, it may have degraded to the point that you are sitting on bare steel. I have two styles of seats one is 1/2" of urathane foam the edge is laced with double loop kangaroo. The second style has 3/4" of the same closed cell foam the edge is laced with basketweave kangaroo. Both styles of foam are very firm. The seat pans are West Eagle. Dave Theobald

Spectacular Beeze, I love it. great color and super tooling. Dave Theobald

I don't see why the same old Neat Lac solution wouldn't work here too. And it might be a project saver for you. Neat Lac is flexible, soaks into the leather and binds the dye to the leather. Give it a try. Better yet....dont use black....ha ha I know that sometimes you just need it. Dave

Neat Lac does not crack or peal. This is a finish that is thin as water, penetrates the leather and seals that nasty black dye inside the leather. I've even put two or three coats of the stuff on very porous leather with no problems....be aware the more you use the glossier the item becomes.Dave Did you hear that guys and gal? That is our job guarantee! There are still bikes out there without one of our seats! So why are you reading this? GET BACK TO WORK!LOLDave

Paul's bike is called Bezerker....Those pics that Beeze posted are from Paul's site and do NOT do that bike justice.....It is the most amazingly beautiful scoot you will ever see.....but you GOTTA see it in person. Dave Theobald

The first thing you need to do is clean everything off the seat with Fiebings Deglazer/Cleaner ..... then for a top coat use Neatlac. Make sure the seat is dry before using the Neatlac. Both of these products are available from Tandy. The best solution is to talk your customer OUT of using black. Dave

You can see it here. They call it the hot rod.....it has a raised rear axle that lowers the bike almost 2" Very sweel looking ride. It deserves a better seat. http://www.suckerpunchsallys.com/hotrod08.htm Dave

This is the one I have too. But I got away from it when tubes started splitting.....I do 200 holes for each seat, so I've gone to the standard punch set.....the hit it with a mallet sort of punch....lots easier on the hands. Dave