MADMAX22

seriously Mutt? Good idea for a painting stand.

Using the same thickness for the gussets is also a challenge when using thicker leathers. Using thinner leather for the gussets allows the front and back panels to lay flatter at the edges and is much easier to mold around the panels. One thing Ive done (not necessarily right) is when fitting the gusset use some clamps to hold it in place which will keep it lined up like if its stitched. Then mark and trim and go to town with assembling.

Sorry but thats usually a futile effort. Personally I rarely use sealers other then things like sno seal or wax/oil mixes I make myself. If I do use a sealer its usually the last step in the process.

So I picked up a side of heavy weight black chromexcel (Maverick leather). I cut some strips as I wanted to make some nice belts. Made one for myself backed with H.O. leather and after a couple weeks of wear the finish is not holding up, as in the black is starting to show the brown leather underneath. So this stuff isnt that durable like say bridle leather, got it. Now I am curious what others use this stuff for. I cant imagine anything holding up well (sheaths, bags, any wear item really). This is in no way a disk on Maverick or Horween. Just curious where this leather fits in. Is it maybe because they just get seconds? Its not struck thru which could be part of the problem but then again I think lots of the CMXL isnt so. Thoughts/ideas.

Did you oil the leather after staining? Applying dye always dries out leather which if vegtan is already dry and needs some kind of conditioner/oil before sealing. A photo album usually can be bent pretty easily unless it is really thick leather.

Pretty sure they are both similar design, similar to the CB2500 or the equivalent "clone". Pretty sure its just bottom feed so there are going to be teeth marks on the bottom of the stuff your sewing. Stepping up to a 3200 or better yet 3500 would be a good decision if you can swing it. I know that extra $700 can be a killer but in the long run may be worth waiting for. I know if i was making belts I wouldnt want teeth marks on the bottom of my work. Out of the two you have listed I have not owned either but know the ferdco name use to be really good, they are sold out now to someone else. Sewline has been around for a little while as well but I would seriously consider one of the few merchants always being advertised here just for the support you would get. If your going used have you called any of them to see if they have any used ones available? Wanted to add I read your original post again and I would really shoot for a 3500 just so you can have smooth feed dogs and presser feet with the stuff you will be stitching. Dont want a nice purse with knarlly feet marks on the backside.

Cechaflo has some awesome videos. If anyone wants to learn about vehicle upholstery watch his videos. i think even JLS would approve of his video style.

Those are not really holster machines. I would post up what thread size you want to use and thickness of leather you want to sew and get some options from the members here. Also read up on the threads on the top of this section which goes into the type of machines you need for various work. Holsters are "usually" about 1/4" of material sometimes thicker depending on the holster and stitched with 207 or 277 thread (sometimes thicker thread).

Oh all kinds of places. Where you at? Wickett and Craig, Hermann oak, some retails are probably maverick, tandy, slc, many others.

Honestly I dont think your gonna have much luck redying these guys. You could try and find a inconspicuous spot and see if it takes it or not but more then likely the dye will not absorb evenly. I wouldnt bother with bagkote unless you want too, Ive done many projects with just sno seal as the finish, it just requires reapplication from time to time.

The first looks like belly or lower quality drum died veg tan or maybe a black latigo, the lower one looks like similar but better quality or from the back and maybe aged some. The bottom looks just like regular vegtan that has been vinegarooned. Thats about all I got.

So given what everyone has contributed my machine is up in the air. It was originally all black which I "think" was primarily older machines in the 153w world, it has similarities to the WWII era machines but cant prove it, but it also has a machined notch on the front with two tapped holes for some kind of attachment I presume. So basically it could have been a special attachment machine or it could have been the predecessor to the regular 153w103.

I believe there are weight limits to the flat rate boxes now FYI. Something like 50 or 70lbs.

Do you plan on opening the business back up or is there some crappy rules to registering in MN? Good to get settled in before winter hits.

Look nice but they would last about 5 minutes with my dog and he is only 60lbs. Ofcourse he would probably enjoy all 5 minutes lol.

Those are your standard singer 111w feet that are used by about a ton of sewing machines. You can easily find smooth bottom feet for your machine on any number of sites. Also once you get the smooth feet adjust the pressure foot pressure down to just what is required which will help. It seems every time I get a "new" old machine the pressure is always maxed out for some reason.

Not sure what Ill do with the paint, been lucky so far in that most machines Ive gotten the paint was pretty good just needed a cleaning. Ill go thru it mechanically and see how things are on the inside. Hopefully it isnt too wore out to start helping put together some bags. The guy I got it from said that he purchased another machine (some post bed old singer model) from a guy who worked at a glove factory in Pennsylvania somewhere and this machine was sitting in the room a little ways away. The guy said it hadnt been used in years and they didnt need it so it was bought along with the other machine. Or so the story goes. Figure an old glove making factory could use machines like this back in the day. Maybe they ordered it with some special attachment to help with glove making. If the story even has some factual truth to it that is.

Well got some pics of the 153WSV11. Got some serious cleaning and probably a few parts. So looks like it was once originally black all over, not sure if the factory painted it all black then shot the grey over. Its not a perfect paint job but theres no over spray anywhere. Of the part numbers I have scene so far it matches singers part list for a 153W103. Only modification I can see so far is that part machined out of the front of the head by the tension assembly. As far as I know anyways. Its an old machine for sure, most of the parts look similar to my 111 which is pretty old as well.

Sorry I havent played with the horse fronts but plan too. Pretty sure you can get them in the 3oz range. Double horse front should be about twice as big sq/ft area.

Uwe do you know if there are any differences in the body casting? Just curious, looking at the different models and I dont decerne any difference so it would have to be a combination of parts I would think that would make up the difference between models so it "should" be as simple as getting the right parts. Atleast I would think.I am just curious because I would like to do the same thing to my 15 but would probably stick with a smaller roller. Forgot to add why the rough wheels, why not smooth? I was wondering if its just supplying pressure to the material but doesnt provide movement like a walking foot and smooth wheel should work fine but I have no experience with these.

DHF double horse front, SHF single horse front. Kind of like double shoulder and single shoulder with cow leather.

Metro usually upholstery leather is going to be in the 2-4oz unless its some specialty type. But you could use whatever you want just money is the big factor and comfort/durability so on so forth. Yintx hidehouse has a bunch of upholstery leather lines that are actual leather. I have not gotten anything from them in a while but setup a wholesale account itll save ya some. Ive been getting my motorcycle seat leather from a place out east (forgot the name) and so far its been decent. Gonna try a couple of types from the hidehouse next as similar type is the same price and they are on the west coast. Its a heck of a undertaking and its very different then working with vegtan and doing stuff like belts and wallets. A lot of little tricks of the trade per say for doing upholstery. I am still learning how to do MC seats (non tooled type).

Argg why does the forum save quotes, was gonna add some stuff but it got covered by the time I got back and now the quotes are stuck in my reply

Your not kidding, got this thing together, cleaned and oiled everything, replaced the belt, took out both sets of roller bearings and polished the races and cleaned everything up and wow does it sew nice. Pretty sure it hasn't had much sewing time on it. The needle gets down right toasty sewing thru some vegtan that I was playing with. On topic I am gonna start tearing into my 153wsv11 next. Ill be posting some pics as well. Similar machine to the 111 and 211 but some differences since this is my first cylinder arm machine. What is the best way to differentiate between the 153w103s and 104s and other subclasses of this machine. I understand the 102 is needle feed vs the compound feed of the others. The casting is a little different on the front of the head on the 100-102s and they don't have the exposed bar on the back like the 103/104s correct. Is the only difference between the 103s and 104s the amount of lift of the pressure feet and the max stitch length. Thanks.

In my experience my 211G155 clutch motor was great for wide open and was very touchy for slower operations, the punching power was ok for very thin stuff. By just changing to a adjustable speed servo motor the control at slower speeds was greatly increased. The slow speed punching power is now adequate and it will still fly right along for the longer runs, just as fast as the clutch motor that was on it previously. I had to do a couple of MC seats on the 4500 due to the 211 being out of commission and it was a test of patience as far as time was concerned. Not that I am a speed demon by any means. Not to mention getting a free hand straight run of stitches is actually more difficult at really slow speeds. It takes a little bit of speed to get those straight runs to come out right and obviously the more experienced you are the faster they can be accomplished. I am still at the slower end of that.