MADMAX22

Unfortunately craigslisters now seem to use ebay as a pricing structure then wonder why there machines dont move. In my area the 206s,1245s,145s all go for around $1000-1500 and most of the time they sit there for a long time as well or they finally take a offer. Ive only scene a couple of these machines I would pay that money for but they were nice looking machines and not used in industrial environment.

Or you can take the advice of people who have been doing it for years and have already made the mistakes. Will jump start your progress exponentially. I agree with Dwight on this one, mix about 50/50 with denatured alcohol. The DA is relatively cheap and anything more then a 50/50 split gets into the area of repeated coats to get a good color.

How long do you let the holster dry out before applying your oil and finish? It can take days with the roon process if you dont have a hot box. I think it takes longer then even normal wet forming if I remember right, pretty sure some of the oils and such get drawn to the surface of the leather which can hold the moisture in. Another thing try not leaving the gun/knife in the holster/sheath when not being carried (sure ya know that already). Although I did leave a leatherman in a roon sheath for about 5 years now and it is still fine. Different animal I know.

A shame too, its been on there for atleast 6 months, probably since they picked it up. Will probably sit there and rust away while they try and make a killing on it. Nice looking machine.

For $45 you can get a osbourne from Bruce and you dont have to worry about breaking it when you tighten down the thumb screw. For $120 you can get one of the nicer older ones that will probably last another 100 years if ya take care of it. I may be kind of odd in this it seems but I prefer a good solid blade in my tools that I can just sharpen and get back to work without being on the hook for buying new blades all the time. I know this opinion varies. I just cut out 40 belt blanks from HO 8oz and some heavy CMX tonight with my plow gage. I repositioned the blade after about 20 strips and will give it a stropping after I am done. It will be ready to go again the next group I cut out.

Speaking of bobbins, I have noticed I have some where both round end plates are the same thickness, others have thicker material on one end and thinner on the other. Anyone else notice this.

Oh I dont know. Imagine they are all pretty close. Heck ya could even make one if you have a few tools. I havent had one in several years.

The wood ones with the razor blade in them will do alright and are cheap. Just gotta buy blades. A strop on the blade will make them last longer. I used mine for a while before I bought one of the brass and steel draw gauges. Those are nicer but you have to be good at sharpening and they are pricier. They are not as easy/nice as the plow gauges which are the nicest/easiest IMHO but also the priciest as you found out. The wood ones can serve you well and they last for a while. Just be careful as with any of the draw gauges are a little dangerous since the blade is just sitting out there on the bar.

Got my first order from them today. Ordered friday afternoon and it shipped out monday and got it today. The B side of HO is about what ya would expect, not too bad at all much better then I have gotten from other places. Not as clean as the WC sides I have gotten straight from the tannery but good enough. The horween side I got looked good as well. Shipping was pretty cheap and it was nice to have a supplier that is only a state away.

I had a roon seat I made and used for a couple of years no rub off, also had a few belts and holsters with no rub off. I did the usual roon/baking soda wash/rinse/neatsfoot oil/rub with snoseal or my own mix of wax/oil. Never had an issue.

Frank if you would can you share the serial number of your machine and maybe a picture of the emblem/serial number area. Just kind of curious as I wouldn't mind comparing it to the one I am getting. Thanks.

Probably see if you can get this moved down to the sewing machine section. I would call one of the distributors here on the forum and chat with them for a bit. That or Wizcraft (member) has a bit of experience sewing all kinds of stuff. I have no clue about sewing clothing items or corsets but I would suspect a cylinder arm machine like the cowboy 227 or one of the many variants of the similar machine would be a good start. Would probably also want a table adapter so you can have a flatbed in the same machine. And yes a walking foot and a servo motor which these come with would be very helpful.

Yeah that should be fine weight wize. Maybe the stress, or being overly dry, or just a bad section of leather. FFE (fire fighting ensemble) http://www.dcfpnavymil.org/Equipment Des/Systems-Equipment/Equipment/DCRS Kits/Firefighting Access Personnel Kit Complete/FF access kit Personel/ffe/ffe.htm

Jimi that guy has one heck of a nice little home machine there. Amazing the difference between home machines of that time and now a days. Gregg good info. I could imagine there would be some changes in material during WWII. I think most industries were affected by that to some degree.

I have no idea if its easier to import from china or the us into africa. Most/all the brass buckles from buckleguy and zackwhite come from china (dont know if that matters to ya) so it would seem easier to import from china vs having them shipped to the us then back to africa. Depends on how many you want also I would guess.

Gotcha thanks Rocky, I didnt even connect that those little punch outs were what was being used on the belt there, getting slower as I get older.

Rocky thats a nice looking belt and I dont even care for those raised gator strap kind. Does that extra flap loop around the keeper in the back, is it all held on by the rivet/screw? Just kind of curious. FFJ I would take a second look at that leather your using. I assume its about 5oz or so? Hard to tell from thepick. Ya may wanna step it up a bit. I assume your bunker pants are like the bottom half of an FFE correct (wore those things alot in the navy). They are relatively heavy and dont necessarily move with your body well and can put far more stress then a normal pair of suspenders is use to seeing. Also ya could try out some of the ones on this page, https://www.buckleguy.com/loops-and-sliders/?sort=featured&page=1 I understand you probably dont want to redo them but I wouldnt want those things breaking.

Yeah but two sides to that coin. On one side you have the internet which history wise has a bunch of info on certain things but requires people to both post that information and the big part people to search for that information. Pretty sure Peter wrote his books before the internet was a staple. Not to mention its like anything with trades that have existed for hundreds/thousands of years. Ya get a rehash or atleast use to of all the tricks of the trade. Now a days ofcourse you have the internet. Gonna be interesting the next good sized solar flare we have that knocks out all the satellites. People are gonna get crazy lol. Peter does some amazing work and is very talented and has been doing this leather crafting for a few years (since the 60s I think), dont mind reading his books or absorbing any information that he relates to the field.

Biker it is a tried and true method (even before the 80s JS, you guys got it from somewhere right), ya will be very happy with your leather carving after you have let it sit for a while. Maybe not over night but if you can case your leather in the morning (say before work for us "hobbiest") and let it sit till the afternoon it will be good to go. Now if I am just doing a basket weave and boarder a few hours then pull the glass and let it air out for an hour or so and go to town. I am not sure if the saddle guys do this because of the weight of the skirting they are carving.

Yeah double boil for sure. I dont know if it is recommended but I also use a small crock pot/sauce warmer. I got it when I bought a normal size crockpot. Its totally ruined now but the only thing going into it is wax mixtures. Takes a while to melt everything up but eventually it does (few hours). As always have some ventilation.

Sure if ya want your item being treated like a pinata. Ofcourse I will use UPS or USPS well before I go to fedex if I can help it.

I will update this thread when I get my machine 153WSV11 with pictures and other info I can acquire from it. I can only see one difference right off the bat from the bad photos the seller had and that is a spot on the left front edge that is machined off and has two mounting holes. I can just assume it was for some special attachment.

I think we are all going to feel a shipping pinch even more in the near future. Now that almost everything is ordered online prices to ship things are going to steadily creep up. It use to be gas prices that was the excuse, now its just more money in pocket unless wages are going up somewhere I haven't heard about. Then places like amazon and walmart are going to end up making there own delivery service then things will get interesting again. Even that will probably not be good for us the end user. I still don't understand the price jumps in the past two years (for everything). Fuel went up what a couple years ago then came way back down however that gravy train of an excuse seems to be sticking around.

Frank was curious if you ever found any more information for your machine, any differences that it has vs the regular run of 153's? I know this is an old thread but only one I could find on these particular machines.

Looks good TX, did you by chance try folding in on them a little when you glued the inside layer to the outside layer. Probably wont help any (cant remember if it did or not), then once the glue is set do the stitch around the perimeter. I could be way off on this, its been a while since I did any type of journal item. Rocky that is a good idea with the clicker setup like that.