MADMAX22

Ive tried similar Matte black shark from a different retailer. They more then likely got it from the same place in Mexico. The only pic I have of it was a sheath I made a few years ago.

Yeah that would probably help. It is easier to cut a strip off of a side then the smaller pieces also. I didnt have any sides to cut but the thicker sides the weight of the leather usually keeps it pretty stable and cutting is easier ....... as long as the blade is sharp as you mentioned.

Not a great vid since I am not setup (no stand or anything). Anyhow here ya go.

Try again later

gonna have to reedit the video, it mixed about 3 videos into one. Will have to do that later tonight.

Depends on the leather. If its softer or thinner leather ya can get it started by pulling with a pair of pliers or such then set those aside and pull the strip or hold the strip while you push the blade thru. If its say 8oz vegtan you just grab the body of the leather and push the plow thru. These things need to be very sharp. I could make a vid of me using mine but it will be later.

Dikman I may be bugging you about your machine tomorrow, I am picking up a 111w155 that was suppose to be from WWII time period. I dont have the serial number yet but it has the same black model tag like yours. This is going to be my last machine purchase for a while. Its not a "SV" model. It is a "W" serial number though. I noticed on yours the oil cup (not sure what it is) on top above the tension assembly has a cap on it. Is that something that is just usually not on these models or is it something that got lost very easily so you never see them? Just curious. This is a bad pic of the machine I am picking up if everything goes right.

Ouch. Adding to what Art said looks like the guy was taken out of his element and thrown into a display setting for the show. I could be totally wrong but looked like he just wanted to be at his work bench where everything was in its proper place like it has been for who knows how many years. Some people do not do well in that setting at all, regardless how well they do in there normal place of work. That first video is pretty cool, well done and its always nice to see craftsman doing stuff like that. Always make it seem so easy. Nice old 31 made it in the shot too.

OK NP. Thanks Frank.

Haha I wish, didn't find nothing yet. Atleast for the first few weeks we had stuff to do and other people in the office. Now we have a week or so of required manning for that " just in case" scenario. Probably the easiest money Ive ever made but jeez it gets down right boring. Now if I could do some leatherwork while I was up here it wouldn't be bad at all.

Good info thanks Doodle. Its probably not even worth looking into but Ive been on grave shift (2300-0700) for the last few nights without anyone else in the office and practically nothing to do except find the end of the internet, repeatedly.

Well saddle stitching is still a saddle stitch regardless if its on a mitered joint or a flat overlapping joint, the box stitches aren't all that bad as long as your awl is nice and sharp. That and having a jig like Arme has in his video. Craftynick ya need bigger thread or a smaller awl and needle. Ya got the right start but the smaller holes or larger thread will cause the thread if stitched like the video you watched to force it in to place and gives that nice snake look to it. Now that being said you can have nice straight stitches with the saddle stitch and they look just as good to some and is the same strength and all that. Just a different style or way of doing it.

Well forgot about this site http://needlebar.org/nbwiki/index.php/Singer_Logo_Timeline Looks like the MANFG CO and MAN CO NY were registered at the same time (1875). The silver badges were 1930 but looks like kept the same large thread spool. I have been looking at serial numbers and dates from random pictures of machines I have scene online (non W versions) and it looks like the small spool starts somewhere in either late 30s or early 40s (earliest one I have found was 1942 so far). With exception of the "Texas" badge, the badges changed to the colored rim type in 1951 (as early as 1947 I think because of the production date and sold date, some were made before the centennial year in order to be sold in 1951 from what I have read). Sooo theoretically depending if your 'W' machine has the badge still on it and its original you could narrow down the date of manufacture to a 10 year or so window. Still wanna look and find more serial numbers off of machines with badges to see what the earliest small spool badge I can find is dated. Or I could end up being full of hot air. Also not sure if I am derailing this thread or not, figured finding out a way to date the W machines would be related but feel free mods to move my post or delete or I could just start a new thread.

Just trying to figure out some ways to estimate production years for 'W' serial number machines. Thinking if there was changes to the original style badge that we could narrow down the dates of the machines a little bit. Here is another example which has the big spool and the same lettering as the small spool one but also has the twist details in the thread.

Question for you guys. I was curious on the singer badges on these machines I understand that the early years have the solid brass ones and 1951 and later they changed to a colored ring around the outside and then other changes later on. The earlier year badges with the spool of thread there seems to be a difference in some of them, I noticed on some the thread spool is larger and closer to the center part of the badge (not sure what that is in the center). Is this related to the date they were made or geographical area they were made or does it have nothing to do with anything. Maybe different ones for different size machines? Also was there a difference in years where they used the star type rivets, the star rivets with center post, and the solid round rivets. Thanks for your input. I added a couple pictures to show the differences.

Shipping on mine was $28, 2 sides and 6 horse butts. Granted they are relatively close to me (1 state away). Its not any worse then some of the other places on the eastern US side plus it only took 3 working days total (process/package and to my door). Plus the best part my order was correct and no having to call and tell them to send my order and not hold it because of items being out of stock, then having to call back again because my order was turned over to someone else ....... like some other places.

Well before you jump into needing a big ol saddle stitcher type machine, what is it that you are making? What weight leather and type? Big difference between 4 layers of 10oz vegtan and 3 layers of 2-3oz upholstery leather. How far you willing to drive and how much you willing to spend.

Wasn't really sure how to respond to this. I am definitely one of those ignorant/Neanderthal/self centered lazy ones because I don't follow or necessarily agree with what your saying Gritty. Seems to me your a business man only, you took a vacation overseas and set up some products that get manufactured over there and you setup a receiving/shipping station over here. Good for you. I will say that knowing your marketing scheme, its kind of hard to figure out what the actual story is to be honest.

Forgot to add, took a look at your CL area and saw a singer 111w152 for 500 and a juki 241 for 1000, both looked pretty good but others would have to chime in on if they would suit your needs or not.