MADMAX22

I really like that. Not to much and not to little either.

The only reason I soaked my stuff is so that it was black all the way thru. You can cut and trim if you need to and it will still be black. If the leather gets cut or scratched it will not show any natural color underneath. Another reason is that on some leathers that dont take to being black as easily, soaking will help the overall effect at the end. WandC seems to take it very very well. Some of the tandy stuff I had didnt as well unless I soaked then after oiling it turned out great. Just my technique. I am pretty sure for anything involving leather work there are atleast 2 to 20 different ways to do it lol.

The couple of times I have had it the noncasable portion was either a small circle or are about 10" roughly. Not huge but big enough. Another time it was the lower portion toward the belly about 1/4 of the belly section, kind of like ya dipped it in something. That being said I have not ran into it very often. However I have also shyed away from getting leather from tandy lately. For me atleast it was a 50min drive with a bridge toll so it just wasnt feasable anymore.

Sounds great, dont forget to try and get some pics of it on the bike. That would be outstanding. Not that alot of us here are bike junkies or anything ...

Welcome back and excellent looking wristbans. That inlayed cross idea is really cool.

Great finish and nice looking roadie. I think it goes with the white bike excellent. The factory guys do split the bottom portion into two segments. Ateast on my roadliner they did. It looks fine on synthetics but not sure how it would look with leather, Im still working on that.

One thing as mentioned over time the batch of vine will smell far less then when its new. Mines is probably about a 9 months old and still smells but not too bad. I let my project soak in the vine until its done bubbling. Usually about 15min or so. Then I take it out and rinse with fresh cold water. After the rinse I dunk it in baking soda and water let it sit for a couple of minutes then shake it around in there for a bit and let it sit for a bit more. Alot of typing but its not that painful lol. I take it out of the baking soda bath and rinse that off with fresh water. Then set the project up to dry. I use a fan but do it however you want. Once the project is completely dry it will smell but not very bad and not very strong at all. Then you gotta oil it a few times. Apply your sealer and what ever else you wanna do. I usually oil/atomwax/ then aussie wax or similer. Once Im done its about normal smelling as you can get. I have found the total process of vinegaroon is a little more involved but the end result is outstanding.

Thanks Hidepounder, thats probably what I will end up having to do. I was looking at a rough edge with the veg tan slightly burnished but still rough. It may in my instance work for the project and go well with it. For most though i think your method is about the best way to get it looking good.

thats great, I like it.

Personally I would paint if possible the pan black. Then rivet the leather to the top edge. Or maybe use some of the black rivets that you hold leather together with (forgot there name lol). I think I would make the sides of the square back rest portion seperate pieces and lace or stitch them to the main piece. ORange with scales, oh man that sounds like you could come up with some cool ass solutions for that. Good luck man and looking forward to seeing the finished product. Yeah and you guys that seat design is probably for one of two things. The bike is shaped like that and or that back upright portion will actually keep the person in the seat when his bike is screaming down the track. If you were on a normal looking seat you would be getting dragged thru the air lol.

Great looking seat. Looks really comfy.

Those are very nice. I need to frequent the saddlery section more often. You guys do some awesome work over here.

Its actually ranges around 2/3oz but its just the odd lots from tandy. When I had time to drive down there we would sift thru there suede when it was on sale. Same with the pigskin. Since I dont have time to go down there anymore Im gonna be looking for a good online source myself.

OK so Im working on some bags of sorts and wanna line them. Ive allways used a pig skin liner and laced the edges or used a vegtan liner (calf or pigskin) then stitched and burnished like normal. Right now I was thinking of lining my bag with suede since I have a ton of it in 2oz weights. I didnt want to lace it though, just stitch it. Now the question is how do you do the edge and keep it looking pro. Thanks for the input.

From what I know from reading around is that a hair dryer (heat gun sparingly) will allow the poors to open and it will melt the waxes in the mix and allow them to fill in the leather better. Most of the things like sno-seal (which is really good mind you) and obenauf and I think maybe even aussie wax direct you to heat up the leather a bit. Should be plenty good. The biggest thing with the water proofing is that they redo it on a regular basis. All of these water repellents work great for a certain amount of time. They need to be replenished which is where most bikers go wrong lol. I know better and I still dont do my chaps and jacket like I should.

Hey Rickie you got a link to his site. I dont know the name (really bad with them). Appreciated.

Yeah it does sometimes. Make sure you give it a good baking soda and water bath after you pull it out of the vinegaroon. It really cuts down the smell.

Once again you have done a excellent job. Those look really good.

Looks great, welll as great as a plain black belt can look. Personally I have only ever used belts that look exactly like that since I was very young. Probably allways will. Liking that vinegaroon are ya. I love it.

Yeah that does look really good. You liking those bull shoulders? Where you get yours at? I like the skulls as well, nicely done.

Sounds real good, looking forward to some pics.

Yeah as Tashabear was saying I personally would just go with some neatsfoot or some virgin olive oil, if you oil it it will darken the leather up some (more if you give it a quick suntan) and should look really nice. Once you oil it and its all dry I would go with some leather balm with atom wax a few coats. Then what Iusually do is a good coat of sno-seal or aussie wax. This will really keep as much water out as possible. Now this is just an idea. You do whatever you want, I bet your gonna have many more chances to try different things. Try a few things on some scrap from the same hide and see what you like.

Yeah love watching those guys. Those horses and a good cutting horse are great. I had never ridden a cutting horse before I was about 18 and finally got on one. Super muscular mare. I didnt realize that they moved so fast. I accidentaly pressed with my left leg (use to riding trail horses) thinking she would slowly move to the right. Ha, darn girl moved about 6 ft instantly to the right however I didnt go with her. My ass was sore for a few lol.

Looks great. That style seat probably aint the easiest to cover. You know IMHO I would just oil it and seal it and leave it at that. I think the naturel leather look goes really good with white.

Welcome to the forums. I dont know if I can help much but, what kind of leather is the rest of the jacket made out of, or should I say how is it tanned. You said some is suede and the rest is? The thing is if its a drummed dyed chrome tan or similer type then you wont be able to effectively dye it I think.