MADMAX22

Very cool thanks for posting Bree. Ive been doing alot more vinegaroon stuff lately. Really is a good stuff.

Herman oak and wickett and craig leathers are the best I think. Herman oak unless you can get alot of sides at one time will have to be bought thru other retailers that stock there leather. Other places to consider that I have not had a problem with are Springfeild leather Seigel of california waterhouse leathers there are also some that I havent dealt with but seem to be good from people here Zack white leather Goliger

Thats pretty cool. Now you and your bro got a pretty good setup making knives and sheaths. Get back to work lol.

You can warm it up with a lighter (carefully) which will get it soft enough to get onto a strop. Also if you have a sears or harbor freight nearby they usually carry the variouse lapping compounds which is all it is. Here read this thread as well http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16128

Thats really cool. Good job. How do you like it or have you used it yet. I made one or am making one for myself. Its delrin head but I need to finish the handle. Its gonna be a little heavier duty then my other hammer.

Honestly i thought this one was pretty civil as compared to some of the other threads on this subject. I dont think anyone was really bashing just kind of giving the opinions. I think it varies for different things and different preferences. For thin leathers utility knives are great, for thick leathers the sturdier round knife seems to suit me well but could be different for anyone else. I think the biggest thing with this subject is its like any thread youll find anywhere on motoroil. You bring that subject up and the thread will turn into a 1000 post thread in a couple of days with no one correct answer. Live and let live is a good idea though.

Allthough I agree with some of what you say, I have not sanded any of my finished products. I dont currently have the facilities to do that. I make as best a 90degree cut as I can then bevel the edge and slick it. When I slick the edge I get it cased and this will form the leather into a nice rounded edge. With a round knife you can get pretty good shapes and such. On the really small corners or shapes for my projects I will use a straight blade that as you mentioned has been stropped to a very nice sharpness.

Its not illegal, they just want there money.

sno seal is actually really good at keeping out water. Atleast in my experiences. I dont however use ecoflow when doing the antiquing. I use the feibings gel antique mixed with some neatsfootoil as per direction of a few of the people on this forum. It seems to work pretty well. Oh and nice looking bracers by the way. Would like to add one more thing. Try experimenting with pieces of leather and not a finished project, this way you can find what will work up to your standards before you really try out a finished product.

Wow that is really cool. Really comes together when you see the whole thing all assembled.

I agree, once you learn to sharpen them and keep them sharp they are great. Some people dont like them or dont like using them so its up to the person. Mine I finally learned how to sharpen it and it glides thru 10oz leather with ease.

Looks great, thanks for updating with the pics. That is a very nice bag

Good stuff Ben

Everytime I see this stuff I wanna start making my own. Your very talented Bearman, good work on those tools. Thanks for posting links citizenkate

I think one of the hardest parts for a seat like this is doing the foam. Im still working on getting mine done. Ive got a roadliner myslef, seat looks allmost the same. If you get one of the electric staplers, a nice strong one it will go thru and hold. Rivets also work very good and hold it very well with the plastic but be sure thats your final setup because once you rivet it its a pain in the butt to undo because the rivets spin when you do to drill them out.

That is really cool of ya, thanks a bunch. Doubt Ill ever make one but its nice to have a option to start from if I ever decide to.

That is really cool. Good job on a rush order lol, mine would have been far worse had I been rushed. That is also cool how you can adjust the height of it since it isnt bolted.

Have not tried HO yet, mainly because I cant buy the minimum order from them and I dont want to buy it second hand from someone that more then likely took the best ones for there own work and sell off the other ones. I would prefer to get it from the dealer if possible. I was using the better stuff that tandy had and I picked out what I could. The leather wasnt too bad. Then I got a WC side tooling 8-10oz. I went for it and ordered the top teir stuff and must say it is the nicest stuff I have personally every played with. It was just great how even the dye went on compared to the other stuff I had been using. The tooling was outstanding as well. I also tried some tooling leather from seigel, stuff that was on web special and it was ok. Rather different but more on the tandy level. I also tried some from waterhouse, not sure where it came from or what not but it was inbetween tandy and WC stuff but more on the tandy side. Just try them all out I guess. I usually try for what I think will be the best deal. If I gotta pay a $1/ft more from someplace but not have to worry about cutting around brands and marks then that is a good deal to me.

LMAO yeah I guess that pretty much somes it up. Time and money with a minimal amount of will power

For learning on I would say try out seigels right now. They have a web special going on for double shoulders. Its decent leather not the best but good for the price.

They do look like those, I was thinking that it looked like a navy buckle just larger. Sorry not much help. O/T hey badger you redoing the whole forefly wardrobe lol. I still envey your ability to get ahold of some of that stuff from the old shows and what not.

Very nice looking work. Keep it up.

Thanks Rawhide for asking, I appreciate it and if you would relay my thanks to Peter as well. Great looking work.

Not sure what they are called but I use those little foam wedge looking brushes you get at lowes/homedepot. I get the small ones that are 1" across and I trim the very sharp end off about a 1/8" back. These work pretty darn good for me but as stated you just gotta be careful when doing it. So far I usually do all my carving and what not, dye the project, dye the edges, burnish, seal.

I just wanna know how he got the white with the spirit dyes. Ive never gotten it to work personally.