MADMAX22

Hey guys finally finished a project worth showing. Havent been to active lately with getting going on my leather working but gotta get back on the horse. Well here is a warm me up rifle sling. Padded it with 1/8" neoprene covered with some black suede, 7/8oz leather light brown feibings. Sealed it with atom wax and thru a coat of sno-seal on. Oh and used a little antique on the body to bring out the tooling. Added a little keeper loop to this one. I think I will continue to do so, its a good idea to keep the strap from flapping about and I think it adds to the look. The border is just alternating small and larger seeders.

Thats really really nice. I tell you all what, if I was tasked with putting that together from someone elses tooling work I would be sweating bullets lol.

Thanks Ian, nothing to special. I die them with feibings chocolate, get the edges damp and slick with the standard slicker tool. Gives the nice rounded shape, then I break out the piece of denim from some old levis and go to town a little bit (not too much because the ol shoulder dont like it) then I rub a quick once over with bee's wax (really thin layer too much and it will crack) then go over it again with the levis. Make sure I get the atom wax on there when I seal up the project. I realize why everyone talks about how the edges make the difference between mass produced stuff and quality work. Before I got into leather working I never even paid much attention. Now however its one of the first things I look at.

I like it, that wood you used is a perfect fit. Gives it that old rustic look.

Very nice work. Looks painful but very nice work.

From what I can see it looks like a seeder. Also looks like it was backgrounded everywhere else except for the center design and the three little designs around that. Its hard with that pic though

Thats a nice seat. Im sure it will look killer on the bike.

Yeah I think that would be so nice like that. Or even a coat of oil and sealed.

Havenot had a chance to play with quivers yet but personally I would use one of the techniques from al stohlmans case making books. Like running the leather thru the project and riveting it from the other side. You can do the same thing with stitching as well. This way not all the force is directly against the rivet and it makes it pull laterally instead of away from the rivet (think I got that right lol). I dont have my links since I reformatted but tonight Ill look up some examples and post them up.

You shouldnt be, post away. If you want more of a thread on getting your work critiqued then try posting in the critique my work section, however this thread sees more traffic I guess. Oh and no matter how good you are someone else is gonna come along and make your jaw drop atleast every once in a while. As far as your quiver I think it looks pretty good overall. One thing I would worry about is the strap looks like it is being held on by two rivets. That is not a very good idea as the rivets can give out or pull thru after usage for a while. Have you looked thru the quiver and archery section, there are several very nice ones down there with lots of ideas.

The first one looks to be a burmese and a larger one, the others were much smaller or younger ones but hard to tell what type since they were died. Most all of the large or really large python skins are gonna be from burmese as these are the largest if I remember right, african, retics, and such get pretty big also but not as quick. The ball is only gonna get a few feet over a longer period of time and since they make good pets so they fetch a decent price or did. Another thing you have to remember is that the scales are gonna be bigger on a larger animal, and when that animal skin is stretched its gonna look like that first bag. In the living animal you wont see the scales placed like that unless it has just eaten a large meal and its skin is stretched out. Other wise the scales will be nice and close together. Sorry I worked at a snake breeder and wholesaler when I was in the teens but that was a while ago. Try this site that DCKnives (Dave) swears by and Ive heard nothing of good about them. http://ostrichmarket.com/

OK so I wanted to try one of my rifle slings with a edge that was laced. Now I was gonna lace the entire portion that is padded in the back. So this would entail lacing along the edge (ok no big deal) but now when I come to the point that I gotta cut across the project at both the top and bottom is where I have the issue. How do I continue around and keep it somewhat good looking? I edited one of my pics to point out the area that I am talking about. I know how to do the sides along the edge but once I get to the point of transition I get totally flustered and am not sure how to proceed. None of the books I have really show anything on how to do this. THanks for any help.

I have heard but havnt tried it but you can dye your work normally and get everywhere then go back over it with an airbrush to help cover up any uneven tones. May be worth a try, heard of someone doing that in the holster section.

Thats coming along nicely. Like the pic/design.

G/J Tina, I really like the colors really makes the whole design stick out really well. Very nicely done.

I think it looks great. The molding thing Im sure will change shape over time, I wouldnt say loose its shape as leather tends to work its way into a better shape for what ever job its used for.

Use two thinner layers on the front piece. Set the snap glue them together then treat them like the original. You could also try one of many other types of retention. There are all kinds of different styles of doing it that just use leather.

Cant add to much on the shipping but with the few items I have sold I allways include a short write up on the product. I give a quick HOW TO on keeping the product clean and conditioned, now will they follow your instructions. Its the cant make a horse drink thing but atleast I tried ya know. I usually print these up and handwrite a thank you with my name at the bottom.

You do some really nice photos. The girlfriend and I are into it a bit but still learning. Gotta say you have some spoiled doggies. That chopper really knows how to put on the sad face lol.

Not that I know of. I have used wood sealer for wall hanging type stuff but thats not a good bet for holsters. Sometimes you can get a few things at the local hobby shop or hobby lobby if they have a leather working section, allthough its usually minimal and totally overpriced.

Very cool, thanks for taking the time and putting in the effort.

I was informed that the only thing for the harley logo was harley davidson, and that the logo sheild and the other stuff like live to ride ride to live were not trademarks of harley and fare game. However this wasnt from a lawer so who knows. However once you take that shield and put HD or harley or davidson on it then its done.

Yep just put them in and leave it for a while. I just used about 3 of the steele wools and they totally desolved in the gallon of vineger I have. Works like a charm usually. Some leather will take it differently. For the original op did you give it a good baking soda wash after words or just leave it how it is.

im still a nub at leather work but was wondering do how close to the edge do you sew and when you use the contact cement do you coat both sides and let it get tacky before gluing. Also Im not sure how water effects the glue but I would definatly let it sit overnight before I dipped it in water. I can still smell the cement curing after a afternoon so for it to be fully cured I think it takes 24hrs maybe less.

Nice job man, I like that mix of the types of leather and how you got the lacing to go with it.