Instinctive

Try this. It works for me. Lightly oil with neatsfoot using a piece of sheep skin. Right away apply spirit or oil dye with the piece of oiled sheep skin. You may need to replenish the oil. Leave for a day or two to let the oil and dye completely soak in and disperse. Then buff the crap out of it.

It is. Here are a couple of shots of a traditional side quiver I did using 550 Paracord. The 95 Paracord is a very good size. Get yourself a couple of #1193-01 needles from Tandyleather.com. The 2 mm cord thread right in. Melt and taper the cord end first. Also works with the 550 cors if you cut the end on a taper before melting.

You can also stitch with paracord. I have used 3 mm (paracord 550) to stitch knife sheaths and quivers. You can also get 2 mm (paracord 95). Very very strong and lots of colors available.

My mother inlaw just asked me to make her one. Family discount of course. No pressure.....

Going to get me some of those to go with my jug of Mop N Glo .

My longtime favorite food vendor at the local farmers market is retiring sometime this summer. Since sometime in the early 2000's she has been my first stop on Saturday morning for food and a chat. Always with a smile and optimism, regardless of the weather or the news of the day and sometimes something extra with my order. As token of my appreciation I decided made her a leather market bag which I hope she will be able to use to enjoy a trip around the market herself every now and then. About the bag: Hand cut for the hide, 5/6 oz cow leather from a tannery in Maine. Dimensions: 16" wide x 12" deep with a 3" gusset. 100% Hand stitched (about 900 stitches, I lost count). Inside hanging pocket attached so no extra stitches show on the outside of the bag. 8" wide x 7" deep. Interior support strap that helps maintain the bag shape (it can be disconnected for large loads) and can be used to secure keys, etc. as well. Double layer hand stitched straps long enough to carry or wear on the shoulder. Strap connection reinforced on the inside. #shoplocal #shophandmade

Well that turned out pretty good. And it's one heavy duty belt.. Nice strap end too! I might to try that template myself.

No problem. If you need them for other sizes, just let me know.

Something like this? Belt Template 150 Spear Taper.pdf

No problem. I have an engineering background and a free CAD system on my computer, to draw them with. Then I test and tweak to finalize to heavy poster/map board. That also means I can change the shape of the strap end or scale to a different size really easily. To make the final template I use Elmers spray craft glue, from Walmart or similar, spray the poster board and the back of the printed template. Let them get tacky and then stick the paper to the board and cut the final template.

Try these. Drawn 1:1 scale. Print in standard letter size paper. Un-click stuff like "print to fit", etc. so the scale is not changed. For a buckle that is 1" long from the heal bar to the end of the buckle, I would add 8-1/2" to the belt size needed to land in the middle hole. Rivet/snap hole spacing will accommodate a 1/2" wide keeper. Note the snap holes are a little wider to accommodate a line 24 snap. Belt Templates.pdf

You beat me to it immiketoo. That is exactly what I do and it works great.

Please go ahead. Th pattern is for anyone to use.

Your welcome. Your welcome, eh. Where are you located in Canada?

Here is the pattern with notes fresh off my CAD system. Golf Scorecard Wallet 6x8.pdf

If you need a pattern, I can PDF you one.

I had a piece of vegtan and pig liner lefetover from my last notepad portfolio project so I would out a pattern for golf scorecard cover. Fits standard 6x8 and 5x8 scorecards.

Sonotube. Cardboard tubes used to pour concrete post for deck, etc. Very cheap to buy and available in a number of different diameters.

Really hard to put a number on that. Never as deep as oil or spirit based dyes but seem to be adequate. I have been carrying around a black dyed front pocket wallet for the past several months. Shares a pocket with a knife and other pocket debris and and it's still going strong. I usually do a couple of coats applied with sheep's wool.

Try giving the piece a light spray of water before applying the dye. Opens up the pores a bit. It will never penetrate like oil dye but I have used it a lot (very limited choices where I live) and never had a bad dye job or rub off.

Precision stamping looks great, especially with the antique. Antiquing is something that I am just starting to try as well. Everyone seem to have an opinion for a resist. What di you use?

I had a 36" piece of buffalo lace left over I had cut for another project and needed something for the key to my leather tool cabinet so I decided to try a leather "paracord" key keeper. Managed to get a piece about 2" long.

I have the same set and if you have some beeswax handy, stick the chisel points is the wax before you punch. Easier going in, easier coming out.

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After 25ish years of not doing any, I finally took the plunge on a tooling project. I'm making a tri-leg stool and this is the seat. Now I'm studying all there is is to study about antiquing and really hoping I don't screw it up. Please feel free to offer any opinion you may have on how to finish this thing.