Seagrove59

Took some time and was definitely a learning curve but finally got it finished. I now know that when making pattern I need to also premark the stitching hole to help everything line up.(or learn to use a sewing machine luckily I find handstitching very therapeutic). Next one will be much easier. More photos of back

To my Canadian brethren, is there anyone selling Vergez Blanchard tools in Canada. Tired of the duty and US prices for leather working tools. thanks Peter

I am in the process of making a weekend market bag (my name for it), two parts I am seeking advise on. 1/ I put a band around the top and am wondering on how I could avoid/hide the gap that is produced. Photo attached. 2/ is there any sort of formula as to determine a handle length, I assume if used she will be putting it over her shoulder. Did some research and it recommends a 12” to 20” length. Before I cut want to see f there is some other formula. Bag is 14” long by 15” tall. I am self taught, so any advice/direction would be appreciated.

Nice finished edge and stitching. Heavy duty.

Very nice, I like the case design as well, something old is new again.

Thanks, yeh 40 + years for me, except for 5 year beard phase in early 80's. Had used a Lee valley kit to make a razor before and had some left over wood so thought what the heck I 'll try recycling an old razor.

Yes took old razor and removed head, made handle, with some left over cherry, birds eye maple, bamboo plugs and resin.

Made a travelling razor from an old Gillette razor to see it was feasible, like how it turned out so tried to figure out a case. It came out pretty well, I like the sort of industrial look to it. Don't like the stitching on the flap, but was rushing when I worked on that part. Snaps went on well which had been an issue in the past, but need work on my mounded leather measuring, but I feel the irregularity makes for an interesting look. (Or have convinced myself of that as I like the case.).

Bag with my brother in law's firearms. Fits all his bits and bobs so he is happy.

Excellent job, something to strive for as I get better. What portions do you use in your leather balm, if it is a family secret I understand.

Garypl I will leave the muskets to those that know what they are doing,, will get him and his cousins to show me how they do it, I understand the principle just need to see the practical. Plinkercases, they are for doming and Shaping metals I occasionally work with, used to do some jewelry work but not so much anymore. JD62 thanks.

It is a single compartment with a pocket under the flap. Was estimating on sizes from photos and articles. Storage body under the flap is about 10 inches and a bit.

Brother in law is getting into black powder muskets, was talking about possible bags to carry equipment. Seemed like a neat challenge as I had never done a bag, so did some research online and with some magazines he provided and did up a pattern, and made it up, hand stitched and glued the the seams. Based on eastern beaver tail bags I saw. This is the closed to finished picture, need to finish the edge of straps and dubbin for waterproofing. Any suggestions or constructive criticism is welcomed. My daughter just started a new job so might take some skills learned and have a crack at a briefcase next.

Yes with the stiffing material it is a tight closing. Another 1/4 should make it better

Old case fell apart so used it as template with some scrap leather and used old hard frame. Couple of dying issue and will make centre section wider in n next version, but am pleased how it came out. PGY The back

Also picked up a C.S. Osborne, handle did not survive the removal, made new one by joining the butt end of original handle with a piece of birds eye maple I had. Used brass to made pins to join two pieces of wood and epoxy filler with saw dust from woods used to hide the seam. Then shaped and sanded like mad. Had New Edge Sharpening clean up the knife edge as there were some small chips in it. I like how it turned out, also repurposed the remaking top piece of handle to make an awl handle.

Another photo

Finally finished the Rose knife, I feel it turned out nice. Was unable to get the blade separated from handle so for ferrule I utilized a twine wrap soaked in an epoxy resin the sanded up the grits to smooth. Had blade fixed by a Halifax local guy who sharpens with Japanese water stones, New Edge Sharpening, Peter Nowlan.

Thanks to all, there is no wiggle to the blade at all, don't see any wedge. Raining tomorrow so looks like I have a weekend project.

I recently purchased this small Rose round knife. Was looking for this size 3 1/4 " to 3 1/2" blade. Got it fairly cheap as it appears someone was using it to pry things open. I have a local sharpener who I figure can help me with the blade damage. I am looking to remove the handle to replace the ferrule and also to tidy the handle up. However I cannot find how it connects to the handle. There is no pin that I can see. Can someone with experience with Roses give me some idea of how to get it off?

Thanks for the reply, the working surfaces came out very smooth, lots of hand sanding through grit levels. Good idea re the waxes, hadn't thought of that but it does make sense. I did put a beeswax/mineral oil coat on it and let it set over night, will likely just use the waxes from the edgings from now on. Peter

I made a slicker/burnisher this date with a left over piece of Birdseye maple. Reading some of the forums by people that make the power burnisher I see they use a natural oiled wood that are superior to native woods. As I don't have access to those woods and am kinda proud of how this one turned out, Any suggestions as to how I should finish this one. I have access to danish oil, mineral oil, beeswax and a beeswax mineral oil combo. Any suggestions welcome

KingX, so you go 8-6 oz less, why is that your preference, I have seen your blog spot and can see you are turning out nice work. Thanks for the reply. Peter

Oltoot, thanks for the reply, why the heavier wt for shading is it because it needs to go deeper. New to this and want to start moving toward tooling. Peter

For tooling, how do you determine what weight maul to use? Peter