ShirleyT

Dear Art, Steve and Kevin, Okay, I pulled the trigger and ordered a Pfaff clone from Ralph's in Denver. They are the closest dealer and my best hope if I ever need service. And maybe I can find a good, used, Artisan 4618 sooner than later. I'll pick it up on the way home from a week on a sailboat. It's a brave new world. Thanks again for making all the time to help. I truly appreciate the effort and the wisdom offered. I'll keep you posted. s.

Hi, Kevin. Hi, Kevin. Hi, Kevin. Not sure why but there are three "Hi, Shirley"s posted...You SURE are friendly. Last one came through...Thank you so much! I so appreciate all the input. I've long admired your work. Now I "admire" your advice too!

Art, sent you a PM for more advice if you have a second. Thanks.

Atta' Girl! Crazy like a leatherworker! I did a bit of silk ribbon embroidery on a vest. Turned out well.. can't find the photos, sorry, was a long time ago. Lots of tutorials out there and silk ribbons for embroidery at any craft/sewing store. The silk is really tough, comes in beautiful colors, a small awl helps too. (And the right size needles.) Here's a quick overview: http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3725/b...e-easy-stitches Flowers are most common but a talented leatherworker could interpret the ribbon into really cool ways with the skills you already have. I would love to see it when done.

Love the cuff...yes, should sell. and quickly. Kevin - sorry to be under-informed (clueless) - what is Yankee Wax? and pcs?

Us girls wear different sizes depending on the pant or skirt - low rise jeans use a different belt than high-waisters. I'd suggest the unfinished ends approach or have someone sneak into her closet and measure one that she wears often...good luck!

Dear Steve, I took her class on wet moulding, three days. My original plan was to then spend four days with another teacher. Unfortunately, the gentleman had a health crisis and was hospitalized. Valerie graciously agreed to let me stay on as her student instead. So I had a class and then additional private instruction for a very reasonable fee. Tetbury is in a beautiful part of the country and easy to get to by train. Well, train gets within a few miles and Valerie picked me up at the station. British Rail Pass made it easy. I stayed in a great inn above a shop (Talboy's) two blocks away. Small town, great people, fabulous instruction, and it changed my life. I came away knowing I could make a living doing something I truly love and that is important to carry on artisanal traditions. Once the economy turns around I'll be going back. I'd really like to do her summer school (longer) class. The English have a different way of doing things (duh!) and I've found the differences have added a certain richness to my work that I might not have learned otherwise. I've heard the same thing from our English cousins that come here to study with our Western crafters. It's all worthwhile; it's all good. Thanks for asking!

I ordered directly from Abbey Saddlery and had it in less than a week. At the time was less expensive than Siegel's. http://www.abbeysaddlery.co.uk/ The quality is great. All I had to do was add leather to the jaws. They also have Osborne and Dixon tools. And here's a website for Valerie Michael. I went over and studied with her a bit. Worth the investment. Now, if I can just find someone to teach me tooling and stamping... http://www.leathercourses.co.uk/index.htm

Francis Burdett-Mills, former director of the Corwainer's College, has a great tip on flattening those awls. When you have your awl blade seated and the tool is already to go, color your thumb with some ink. I recommend water-based marker or some such and then grasp the tool the way you'll be using it. You've then got the perfect place to flatten/round out. You'll always have the blade in the correct position and it won't roll off the bench. I learned the hard way one day like Randy. The awl rolled off, I went to grab it, missed, and it went point down into my thigh. It bled like the proverbial pig. My jeans got soaked in blood and as I'm hobbling out of the workshop to take care of it, one of my daughters comes in. She almost fainted. As she thought I'd been stabbed and she wasn't too clear on what happened, she then screamed. The neighbors happened to be outside....well...you can imagine the comic scene that followed. Someone called 911, I'm covered in blood saying no, no, no, just an accident, dispatch calls back, I say again, no, no, no, just an accident, I'm okay, they send a car anyway, dogs howling, I'm still trying to get the bleeding stopped and by now have my jeans off and the officer wants to personally check on my near-naked well-being and the daughter is not only still feeling faint but embarassed. And the neighbors don't seem to want to talk to us much anymore...

Aspen is lovely in the summer - we have an extra room and if you want to camp outdoors that's pretty big around here. We live at 8000 ft. and the peaks go to 14 around here. Old mining town if you like that kind of history.

TomSwede - LOVE the wristbandbracercuff. We girls tend to call them cuffs, makes us feel a little dangerous when buying leather fashion cuffs...and we make a bunch of more girly ones here at our workshop. I really like the photo you posted and I am instantly wanting to learn how to make one too...wow! Question - does the fastener/catch hold up well? Easy off and on? Catch on things? etc? And do you do classes? SO many questions...

We made one for my daughter's red-nose pit bull - Pink leather with studs. She calls it her "going out" collar. It's held up really well and gives us lots of leads from other customers. Go get 'em!

Great, info...on my way to $pend. Wish me luck.

We are a hand-stitch shop looking to move to a couple of sewing machines, primarily for handbags. Any recommendations, cautions, help? Thanks.

Hi, Ray! Definitely take Valerie's course on wet moulding since you are in the neighborhood. (They fill up fast.) I attended last May, was worth every penny. Her book is a great start. I left the course with two moulds and a good basic knowledge of how to make them; Valerie's husband Neil teaches the mould-making process. I came home and promptly purchased a Japanese shinto rasp that Neil uses that cuts like butter and makes the curve easy to cut. http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp...p;dept_id=12881 Valerie and Neil are great resources and teachers. Neil also works on historical stuff, does lots of restoration and is an archivist of some sort for the museum at Walsall. Valerie is a gem of a teacher. We've adapted her techniques further to wet-forming lots of our fashion items. AND THE REST OF YOU - take Randy's course if you can get to Indy! You'll find it a worthwhile investment. To follow up on some of the comments so far - the mould is most important. Several coats of poly-acrylic or equivalent will seal the plywood (birch) helps limit delamination; C-clamps are great - they have plenty of throat, evenly distribute pressure if you use enough of them, and allow for working with different weights of leather. Cup hook for one-piece forms are an ideal way to pull the form out when dry; I found out the hard way. DO NOT use steel nails to hold leather in place - purchase brass or stainless. The least imperfection in the mould will show up in the final product. After-care of the mould is vital for re-use. We wrap ours idividually in bubble wrap for storage, careful storage. After all the work constructing we don't want to re-make. Marine ply is a good way to go if you are going to re-use the mould many times; it's worth it in the long run. Moulds for gussets are a great way to get tight, sleek fit for stitching as well. 3-part moulds are fun, and easy, for small purses and cases. We've not used fthem or larger pieces; we don't want to put that much leather (and all the hand-stitching) at risk if we've screwed it up. And then there are opportunities with masks...we also do some theatrical and costuming... Wet-forming is a big part of what we do - we owe it all to Valerie. Best wishes in the process. Shirley

Tom, I really like this bag. Did you wet form the front to wrap? I'd like to know more about the construction if you don't mind. The attachment for the shoulder straps looks like a great way to distribute weight and make it more serviceable as a book/heavy carry bag. Terrific piece. Thanks for showing it to us.

Oh, Kevin - killjoy - just when I was thinking I'd find something vintage aka work-saving (That's probably why I've never attempted shoes. )...I've seen a few that have handles, like a single hole punch for paper, and do 2-6 tiny holes at a time...sounds like filigree punches might work... Thanks, everyone!

I'm looking for a tool(s) that will make decorative holes like those one might find on wingtips or a fancy punched design along an edge. Somewhere, I read that they were commonly used in the shoe trade...any vintage punches out there or guidance on where to find? Thanks!

Got through to the section through the .pdf link...all is good. thanks.

Get the book "Sadie Starr Presents..." on beading - available through Amazon among others. I learned to bead with this book probably 15 years ago. Good photos and technique for applique stitching. I find applique of beads is more flexible in design possibility than looms. I've made tons of Victorian pieces (and some Native American themes too) using the techiniques in the book. Low cost techniques - card stock, thread, beads, beeswax and needles. Great way to incorporate cabochons into a piece. You can put the design right onto the cardstock and sew the beads on directly. Chuck is right - it is highly addictive. I've made myself a little travel kit with a small rectangular Tupperware kind of tub to carry whatever I'm beading on with me. I can kill lots of time at airports and other fun "waiting" opportunities. Use the lid to hold a few dozen beads at a time; little folding scissors; cake of beeswax, and your work in progress. Becomes meditative after a while.

Turmeric, softened in a little oil overnight or for a few hours, makes an interesting yellow/gold

The ladies of Aspen Leather Workshop - all three of my daughters are involved in the business - oldest does design only and the youngest is still in school though loves to tool, middle one is becoming a Celtic expert; me, I'm just proud as punch...

It grows mold pretty quickly once mixed. You can also try "mucilage" aka "paper" glue. That's the stuff you used in grade school with the funny rubber top. Mentioned earlier in the thread, I trained with Valerie Michael in the U.K. "Gloy" gum is what she uses in her shop in Tetbury. I think it a brand available only there. (I brought back several tubes.) I dilute with distilled water 1:1 and add a few drops of tea tree oil to retard mold growth. And it smells good too.

I was fairly certain the voice of wisdom would tell me what I already knew... Still, I was looking for a way to make a seamless finish with this particular leather like some miracle adhesive I hadn't heard about yet...Of course, after all the cookies, eggnog and mulled wine I could perhaps apply the "millions of pounds of pressure" just by sitting on it...?! Thanks for the confirmation.