Shorts

Good stuff. I second Randy's thoughts on the weight. But it's good you work with several weights so you can see and understand how the patterns act when using different leathers. I'm going to knit pick your belt slots. They look good, but poke is at their height. You want to keep the slots as snug on the belt as possible and prevent a gap. This keeps the holster from sliding up when you draw the gun. All in all, good work!

My suggestion is in the process steps. I prefer to burnish edges as the second to last step to finishing a holster. Early in the process I sand the edges with several grits of paper. First is the evening out of the edges and beveling using the Dremel and the rough grit drum. Then I take 220, 320 and 400 by hand all the way around. Now I have a smooth leather surface that will burnish super fast once I get to that step. When 400 is done, then I go on with grooving, stitching and molding. Then I take the fresh molded holster from the hot box and it goes straight to dye. Using dye for moisture I burnish the edge and then a light hint of beeswax. Then Resolene for topcoat and its done. The steps I use takes a little more time but I think the results are worth it. All about the details.

Good stuff! I love RoadBike's rag

Hey now, let's not get crazy here. This truck nut gets very excited about new tires! Tim, glad you enjoyed the new tools and leather. I'm about to order a few new tools myself. Now if I can just push the 'submit' button instead of closing the browser window "until later"

4-5oz? Wow, I didn't think they'd use leather that thick. Then again, I really had no idea what weight would be used. Thanks for the info Bob!

I can't offer information about the leather but I'm definitely interested in seeing this project underway. I'm going to tackle a bit of the interior on my truck for fun. Good luck! Actually: googling gets "castano leather" http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview/id/291963.html If you're in TX nearby, you might be able to get a hold of King Ranch for some supply.

It's really up to you how you want to do it. If you stitch it straight it will eventually break in and conform to the user. Or you can radius the belt a couple different ways and that will probably produce a comfy belt right away rather than needing to break in. As Tom said, there's no right way to do it, just try a method and see how it goes. I built my first belt straight. It was done to walk myself through the belt making process so I kept it pretty simple. My belt is a double layer of 7/8oz. I'm wearing it now and it's taken a little time to break in, but its allowed me to see first hand how this build would wear. Not bad at all. Give it a go on how you feel comfortable with.

That's rough! lol Should told the guy to bring more patches to hold the 'leather' together Re: Fox Creek, that's who we went with for our gear in '06. Those have worn well, DHs even took a low side one ride and came out well Will have to go to lighter gear for here in TX though. Might switch to mesh. I think perf'ed leather would still be too hot.

Randy, thanks for the write up. I've yet to attempt an ankle holster yet and this will give me a great stepping off point

These are not mine, I just ran across this add: http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/mat/1150721747.html Actually looking through the list some more, there's quite a few ads in there for granite pieces. Dig through and you can find something good

I cut the point to the top layer when I punch the buckle slot and screw holes. Then dye. Then glue to the backing layer. Stitch. Slice off backing excess. Then I punch the tip on the backing strap using top tip as guide. Then edge. Then burnish. Then done. Then, rest.

I used Studio 9 for our riding videos. My complaint about that is when the editing went on for too long or the segment got complicated, it'd freeze up. Not cool. If you're only using it to extract stills, you'll be fine. I was editing 1hr-2hr videos uploaded and that heavily tasked the program. Might be worth trying out QuickTime Pro. I used that a little bit but there was a small learning curve to it that I never totally got into.

Yeah, everything I've ever ordered came directly from Rings. I've only had one item back ordered. To my surprise is was a Beretta 92F. I did not receive any word about a back order. I learned of it after I emailed an inquiry a month after the order was placed. I thought that was rather poor way of doing business. Fortunately I wasn't on a deadline, but had I been, things would not have been pleasant. Randy I hope your items come through.

Dip or airbrush yield great results for me. When I tried the dauber I got streaks galore and the Resolene kicked my tail I also use full strength so I know what you mean about thick. Kinda reminds me of milk.

Ok. I can't attempt to guess, I have no idea. You should contact Mr Kanaley and ask You think it looks like patent leather? That's pretty slick and glossy. I have not had the opportunity to use the products they suggest so I can't comment on the results.

I own a Sparks holster. I build my own holsters. I cannot picture what it is you're talking about. Do you want high gloss? Satin? How about a picture of what you're looking at and trying to achieve the look of.

Ray, is a hydraulic press overkill for what you're looking for?

Top coat can be applied by dauber, airbrush or dipping - it's totally up to you. I airbrush everything and dip small pieces, but will be switching to dipping entirely. As for buffing, I do so before dying, after dying and after top coat.

Can't speak for any other holster maker, I use Resolene.

Google language/translation tool works wonders. I used it for 3 years while living there (just got back) when ordering from JP sites. What specifically do you need help with? I can read and write Kana, but I don't know Kanji.

Mike, that's what I was gathering from the post as well. I would like to address this as I was in the same boat. The way I alleviated this is by flipping the rear panel and cutting out of the pattern in between the straps. Here's a crude drawing of how I work the patterns from my side.

I build mine with the loops over the top. I figured if the button came undone, it was more likely to stay up by being wrapped over the top of the belt.

Use a dowel in molding to create a sight track. I do this on every holster I build regardless of the sights. But it especially benefits a tall front sight.

Boy am I jealous! Keep us updated, your place will look great when its done.

Hey Ray, thanks for the tips. Certainly something every maker should keep in mind (I'm speaking to myself most of all!) Keep it simple. Keep it fresh. I gotta get to it! Thanks Ray