Shorts

While I haven't quite got the splash technique under control, I am making some headway with the marbled effect:

The dye is on the rough side and I can get it covered and thinned out a bit when I do wet molding. I can get it covered by black dye. And it would be no trouble at all for my brown holsters. This leather is what's remaining off that side of HO I picked up in Aug. and I have a new side already here. But, I'll be able to finish this one out without much waste I'm fixing to start on a new belt for myself. It won't be anything fancy, just a black, double layered 1.5" belt with a nickel heel buckle to replace a long trusted Carhartt piece I've worn for the last 4 or 5 years. Who'd trust a chef that won't eat his own cooking???? :D

Is the part where I'm glad I EcoFlo is water-based?

Great work Jeff!

I've purchased DOT snaps from dotfastenersdirect (same size as line 24s). They have a couple different post lengths. Before I purchased them I too was having a bit of a rough go with the Line 24 snaps. They are a little more expensive but they are good quality.

Right on

For hand stitching I used the waxed nylon thread that comes in little spools of 25yds.

Most definitely Thanks Jim

I actually found that needle to be the best for double stitch. Once the blades dulled a bit, they worked very well. In fact, the two that I've used (and just broke the 2nd of the pair) since March were used exclusively. Sooooo I got use to them. Though when they were new, they did slice a few threads that tried my patience. I still haven't found needles to replace these yet. I'm tiding my orders over using some glovers needles. What I do is, punch the hole with an awl, then run the broken needle through to enlarge the hole, then run the stitch with glovers needles. And since the glover's needles are sharp as well, I dull the edges on my sharpening stone. Now, this works alright but by the time I can fully count on the needle to no slice thread, the little eye breaks Not to mention sometimes I have to use pliers to pull it through the hole. The trouble I have is that darn eye breaking way too often. Its a balancing act to find the right needles that won't break, but that won't slice thread. The above needles in question filled the role perfectly for a long time. I have some large harness needles on the way and I'm going to try those. I might put a hint of point on them, but we'll see. Thanks everyone for the suggestions. It's too bad they don't make them anymore.

Art, the pair look great! Faux gator sets the brown color of the dye nicely.

Bruce, glad you found the alcohol does the trick. Makes the results much better than having to find another brown dye to 'like'. lol Great job on the second one, it came out yummy looking, like chocolate mmmmmmmmmmm Oh, offhand, when I mold my holsters, I use a mixed solution of Isopropryl alcohol and water I keep in a jug. Before I use the mixture I nuke it in the microwave for a minute or two in a microwave safe container to warm it up to a good temp then I pour it into my pan with the holster ready to get molded. The dip in there gets the leather to a texture that works great for molding plus deglazes it from handling during construction. The holster will also dry a bit faster as the alcohol flashes out. Now as you use the mixture from the jug over and over again, you'll eventually need to add more water and alcohol. And the jug will look like a nice drink of iced tea, but make sure you label it so no one drinks it

What kind of holster is it that you're needing to dye prior to construction? Maybe we can offer some tips...? I use EcoFlo dyes and I must dye after molding or else it will run. Resolene is an excellent topcoat. I spray it UNDILUTED with an airbrush. I've had no customers complain of any rub off. As for the dye, some guys have had trouble with some browns (check the holster forum). You may or maynot be experiencing the same.

Good work on the holster. For dyes, I use Eco-Flo as they're easy to get (the ONLY thing I cang et) and be sure to seal them up real well. I use Resolene at full strength (I don't dilute). One suggestion, as it makes me nervous, might reconsider not boning the leather down into the trigger guard.

Nice work - I like the touch of shark there for support.

I started out with shoulders (double) from Tandy and then switch to Herman Oak.

Brandon, I'll see if your proteges are still there Tony, yes, we're only going to Sydney. Well, that's where we're staying. I haven't done much research into nearby cities that would make for a nice day trip. Any suggestions?

We'll be headed out on Tuesday for this trip. I wanted to thank everyone for their suggestions - I'm definitely looking forward to doing some shopping!

Beautiful work Jeff. The dark brown and black colors compliment each other well.

Good thread. I'm using the hard action DOT snaps & Line 24s as well and have yet to try the PTD snaps. I saw that dies for them are expensive but I didn't/don't know why as I've never seen them up close.

Tom, your tool roll came out great! I guess the fella getting it is going to be ecstatic about the deal Did you build it from a particular pattern? I got a request for a bed/toll roll that I think I'm going to undertake but it'd be my first venture into anything 'bag'. Up to this point it has been holsters/mag pouches. Probably need to get a bike accessory book to tide me over lol

I too would like to get a press when I have my shop setup to my liking. For now though, I use a pretty crude method. I bought a couple of 1'x1'x.5" sponge gum pads from the hardware store and double stacked them. Then I found some old shelf boards...a top and bottom. I place my sponges between the boards. Of course, the holster goes in there like a sandwich. Now for the good part, the "press" I use is my mighty 110lbs standing on the top board and I let gravity do the rest. Yeah yeah, no laughing! Gotta do what you gotta do I have found by removing the top board I get greater definition in the contours of the gun as I can apply pressure to the angles and curves vs just the flat board on top. lol Really though, you don't need an elaborate setup to get the job done. As the guys have said, thumbs and hands work just as well. The other factor is the leather. I have found that HO is extremely easy to mold compared to what I used prior.

Madmax, nice job. First holster and stingray?! Good work

Thank you Randy, Jeff and John - I appreciate the kind words.

It was a Beretta Cheetah 86. I could shoot and manipulate that gun in my sleep. Oddly enough, even with my sm/med sized hands, every now and then I'd get a stinger on the web of my hand from the grip tang. I remember on the holster I did give boning a shot. I never did get pics of that I guess. Maybe I'll ask mom or dad to send it over, I'm curious now.