dikman

Cute! It would go well with the cute little knife that Chuck made.

Well, ain't that a little cutie! Could also be called a fancy patch knife.

Only real difference (besides yours being much prettier!) is the sweeping curve of the blade.

goober, that's a full-tang design, you can't fit a stacked leather handle to it, as it's shown.

The motor and arm linkage look pretty generic, the major difference that I can see is their control unit has more buttons on the front, which presumably means not having to access the menu to make basic changes (like speed control). Other than that my guess is it won't be much different to most of the other 750w servos out there.

To my un-tutored eye, and with nil experience in bag-making, they look excellent!

From memory they all had 3/8" lift except the 155 at 1/2". The 155 was the model with the "major" differences in that sub-class grouping, the rest were similar, as you say.

In the third photo the bed looked pretty bad, it's hard to believe how well it cleaned up. Overall it appears to be in good condition. I once bought a similar machine with the same type of motor/clutch setup, and while it was interesting, from a mechanical perspective, I didn't mess around with it, I went straight to a servo and (home-made) speed reducer.

My first thought was "an interesting shape, looks quite useful", my second thought was "it wouldn't be hard to make".

The front ones look like leaves to me so my eyes tried to see the rear one as a leaf, but once I accepted that it is a feather then it looks right (if that makes sense). You still did a good job on it.

It may darken a little more after oiling.

Air pressure will be affected by the type of brush, I'm guessing yours is probably a basic external mix siphon feed, which will require a bit more pressure, probably around 25-30 psi. That's what I run my Paasche at.

I use mauls I made myself from melted plastic milk bottles. I also made a maul from rawhide and have a couple of rawhide mallets that were given to me, I find the milk bottle mauls work fine, the rawhide mallets don't have enough weight but that could just be my technique that's at fault.

I don't know about using it in Weldwood but I've used it to thin Sika brand contact cement. I would think it would probably work in any contact cement that is made using hydrocarbons, as Xylene is a strong solvent.

I turned up a burnishing tool from hardwood, cut various grooves in it and mounted it on an electric grinder, works well for all the belts I've made (dress and gunbelts). I also made a small one to fit a Dremel, handy for odd corners etc. Anything to make my life easier.

We all have to start somewhere, well done.

Sounds much like our postal system in Australia, items can travel half-way around the country just to go next door!

Looks pretty damn good to me!

Very nice work, the leaf on the back, being so large, looks a bit like a feather to me (?) but the shading on it is very subtle, it looks great. When I got my arbor press I made a few odds and ends for it, one of them was to mount an awl blade in a fixture so I could use it for precisely your problem, thick welts. Never used it 'cos not long after I bought a Cowboy 4500.

No blaah needed, it looks great. Just one complaint, could you make your images a bit bigger, please? Bell's Palsy - many years ago a work colleague got it (no idea how) but he still had to go to work. After the initial shock he just accepted it and got on with life, he figured there were many other things he could have got that were much worse. It obviously hasn't affected your leatherworking ability.

Very nice work. You do realise, of course, that you're supposed to give brief details when posting? Like handle material etc? Some of us like to know these things. The dark/light leather contrast is very well done.

I don't know if it's available where you are but kangaroo hide is thin and tough.

Beautiful workmanship!

There are quite a few different servos available on ebay (and Amazon?), most of them are pretty generic with the major difference usually being how the menus are accessed to change parameters. Wiz's recommendation is probably the safest as if you buy a "generic" off ebay you'll be on your own (other than possible help from here) if you have difficulties setting it up. For some of us it's just a minor challenge if that happens but there have been many requests for help from folks having trouble with the setup menu on their servo.

That's probably more readily identifiable, the hide image would only be obvious to someone who works with leather whereas the needle and awl is a bit more generic. And yes, I too like the Amopelle, particularly the left one, it's clean and easily read.