dikman

Did the problem start straight after you damaged the cable? It's a bit of a coincidence if that's not the cause. IF that's the cause then the chances of getting a warranty claim is unlikely. As far as the manufacturers are concerned these things come under the category of "disposable/non-repairable", I've never heard of anyone carrying spare circuit boards for them. Much like the speed control boards in mini lathes, mine died pretty early and the Chinese company offered me a partial refund as they didn't carry spares. I eventually sourced a speed controller on ebay and adapted it BUT I doubt you could do that with a servo. I agree with kgg, if the board is damaged then the simplest/cheapest option is to buy a generic servo off ebay unless the dealer is willing to help out. As Al said no-one appears to have bothered doing any work on these (probably because there's zero information available about them!).

Some nice work there yuma.

I've used that method myself to get even spacing of my stitching holes. Just used an ordinary needle and then followed up with an awl for saddle-stitching (used an old Singer hand-cranked 201).

Did you see the add at the top for Ohio Clicker Dies?

Being a moderator on a forum is a selfless task, often having to deal with all sorts of numpties! If that's indicative of Redhorses's attitude then I wish him bon voyage and good luck on whatever forum he goes to. Unfortunately for him this is the forum he really needs.

Something else that might work is shellac. It's used to stiffen felt hats, dissolved in alcohol (I used methylated spirits) and sprayed on the hat. I haven't tried it on leather but it might work on floppy leather.

Always hard to tell from a mic input as sometimes they can be overly sensitive but definitely better than before!

If you're feeling keen then just sew a few different scrap pieces, of differing thicknesses, together so the buyer can see the results. No excuse then for not knowing.

I forgot, your round knife looks interesting.

Very classy, I can see a lot of work (and leather!) went into it.

Yep, I've found one of those rotary cutters much better on softer material because there's no drag like you get pulling a blade.

Those conchos look much better, more subtle. The others stood out too much, being solid metal.

More info always helps, along with photos. Pfaff makes a lot of machines.

That was doing my head in trying to figure it out until it suddenly clicked into place. Simple but very effective.

That's a pretty solid looking belt you've got there, should be good for a few years!

For a first effort that's pretty impressive - and ambitious. One of the problems with being the maker is that you notice all the little flaws, things which others won't see. Which also means you can see where improvements need to be made. I'd call it a success.

Well, I've run into one problem, although it's not the machine's fault - I can't find anywhere local to buy the steel rule that the dies are made from. So far all my searches lead to the US or Alibaba, and they have minimum sale requirements of usually 100 metres! Why do things have to be so hard.....

Messing with old steels is always going to be a bit hit or miss but fortunately most blades for leatherwork are on the small size so as Chuck said a MAP torch should usually be ok. I have a Bullfinch gas torch and it gets almost as hot as a MAP so is fine for small blades. A good starting point is a red-orange heat and then quench. Sometimes quenching in water, rather than oil, can give a harder steel but the danger is the shock from a water quench can warp or crack thin steel - happened to me on my last experiment. And yes, the older saw blades are often better quality steel, although I bought a really cheap Chinese panel saw that couldn't cut a straight line but the steel appears to be plain carbon steel and it makes quite good little blades, so it turned out to be good for something after all.

Looks good, might seem expensive initially but in the long run it will be worth it. Old firearms, like old sewing machines, are notorious for having oddball screwheads! My WWGreener shotgun has slots so thin that I still haven't found a driver bit that fits!!

Lots written on here about "what oil to use" but the simplest way is to get some Lillywhite sewing machine oil.

Yeah, shelves might work. I'm looking at what I've got in there that could be stored in that space. It has to be good for something.......

Christmas has come early for you! Ho Ho Ho.

Conchos always look a bit gaudy to me, you either have none or go all out! In your case there is a lot going on with the belt and holster and I don't think you want anything that detracts/clashes with them. Unless, of course, you like that sort of thing.

Since you mention it () personally I think it would be better without them, maybe just a rivet instead, they look a bit big to me.

Most saw blades can be heat-treated and re-hardened/tempered, the el-cheapo handsaws are usually just carbon steel. Nothing wrong with being creative with what's around, I do it all the time when making blades. A gas torch should be all you need to do that with thinner blades.