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We've all been there, and will again in future sometime. It can be frustrating! Based on what you've said, it sounds like your using too much pressure. The burnishing happens from friction, not pressure. If you've beveled your edges and they start to roll, you are pressing too hard. I think you might try sanding on a low speed with the Dremel sanding drum, beveling, the wetting the edges - not soaking, but damp. Then burnish as you usually do, either nylon or wood, but use much less pressure. Try and get a slick look, but don't go all the way out and expect a mirror finish just yet. Wax the edges with a piece of beeswax, then burnish again. See if this doesn't yield a nicer edge for you.

I agree with BOOMSTICK, it looks good! Your molding is nice and your pattern is well assembled and basic with good rounded corners. Looks like you measured your stitch line and muzzle end perfectly.

Also, I forgot to ask, what kind of glue are you using? Perhaps you're using too much if there is an obvious line.

I dip each piece right before stitching. If it's black, it gets sloshed around on either side a few times, then I let it sit overnight to dry completely. If it's brown, I do the same, but sometimes get some lighter areas where the dye didn't penetrate as well. So, to even everything out, I load the airbrush with the same color and spray it evenly to get the desired tone with no light or dark spots. After the holster is molded and burnished, I use the airbrush again to apply a final topcoat. I like resolene, but will likely look into Angelus' acrylic sealer down the road. I think the resolene is too tacky at full strength, and if you have several pieces to do, can gum up the airbrush in a hurry. I cut it with some warm water and force dry it immediately with a hairdryer. Mineral spirits keep the nozzle clean after the topcoat Good luck!

I glue all the way out, and have never had a problem with any line. I think your process may be a little overkill on the sanding. I sand, bevel, then wet and burnish.

I think most of your issue is the dye. I really like the Angelus line of dyes, and find that I haven't used anything more superior to them. I dip dye my holsters, and finish up with an airbrush if needed (usually the browns - never the black).

Do you have a shot of the rear?

I'll bite... It's dated, it relies heavily on images, it's markup is technically valid but it uses tables for design (they're for tabular data, dammitt!!!) and inline javascript for simple things like rollovers, which is considered sloppy and bad practice. I would ditch it and find something a little more modular since you don't know exactly what you want to offer to your visitors. You might try Wordpress or something like that - it would be easier for you to add/edit/remove content since you don't know xhtml, and it's produces some relatively clean code in case you wanted to learn. Alternately, you could hire a designer+developer to write something for you, but since you're looking at templates, I guess you're budget is on the slim side. That template looks like it's circa 1994 for a web design company - not a portfolio/blog/shop site.

I do the same thing. It's also likely that you used a dauber to apply your dye, which has always given me inconsistent coverage. Dip-dying and/or airbrushing gives the best results (and most even) in my opinion. I do think your holster looks good - perhaps try rounding the corners to prevent snagging and dog-earing. I cut the pattern - dye the inside - glue it, sand edges, bevel edges, dip dye, then stitch, mold, yadda yadda...

As usual, BOOMSTICK has given you sound advice. I would also suggest bringing the rear slot closer to the trigger guard to assist in bringing the grip into the users back and to help prevent some roll (especially since you're not using a heavy gunbelt). Still, lookin good!

First things first... It looks really good! I like the color, and am fond of how it has sort of a sunburst effect. Also, your stitching looks great. It's a bit shiney for my taste, but I know some guys like it that way. Since you have that airbrush, you may try running some resolene through it and see what you think (should be a little more mellow). Regarding stiffness, what brand and weight of leather are you using? I've found that some brands of different tannage stiffen up differently, even in the same weight. If that holster is made of 6-7oz, you can't really expect the rigidity that a 7-8 or even 8-9 would give. That's why most guys use different weights for different styles. My final note: your molding has great sharp lines and looks nice and deep, except at the trigger guard. I think if you bring that detail to the trigger guard, you'll add to the continuity of the whole thing (not to mention retention). Well done!

That is odd. Can you go here: http://project107.net/public/test.htm and see if you see the file input? I also noticed that you said you were running Win98, which made me laugh out loud. You should really consider updating to XP, for safety's sake.

You're definitely making progress. One thing that I noticed is that it looks like you may have been molding too wet. The crinkles in the leather are sort of a telltale sign of that. The slot could be wider, but if you don't have a carry belt, it probably makes no difference. Your stitch line looks like it's well-placed and uniform. Keep 'em coming!

Bob, I guess I'll be the first to suggest a DSLR. I think you'd be happy with the control and the advantages of having different lenses and being able to fully tweak your settings. You could come into a nice Canon 1000D as an entry level for roughly $500. It comes with a so-so 18-55mm IS kit lens, but you can use any EF or EF-S mount lens. It also has an auto-cleaning sensor like all of the new Rebels. The ability to control the aperture, shutter speed, iso settings, use a hot shoe, and more make it more versatile than any point and shoot. I use a DSLR for holster shots and as an everyday camera, and there's no comparison between it and a p&s. I prefer to have the fine control when I want it, versus not having the option at all.

Hi Joe. Java, Flash, AdBlock, etc have nothing to do with the file uploader. So let's get you squared away... See the Browse... button? Click that button to go and look for the file you'd like to attach. Select it, and you should be left back at this same screen, but with the file's path in the text box. Then click the Attach This File button. Once the file gets sent to lw.net and uploaded, you can then insert it into your posts by clicking 'Add to Post' If this workflow doesn't work for you, let us know what happens instead.

Thanks, guys.

Local guy had me make a black Judge pancake for him, and a dark brown version for his son-in-law. I think they turned out pretty nice. The particularly challenging part of these is the cylinder - it's a beast. Anyway, going to be delivering these tomorrow. Both are made from 7-8oz HO. C & C welcome. Have a great weekend!

Using better materials definitely yields a better product. It seems so obvious when you say it out loud like that, but for some reason it's different when it's time to put your money where your mouth is. Still, it's true. The HO drinks up dye and water very fast - I needed very little hot tap water to case this one for molding, as opposed to other brands that took an actual soak. The way it molds is one of the best characteristics about it, and the main thing that sets it apart (for me). I can only imagine the amount of detail you could get from it with a press.

Your inlays always look great and this one is no exception. Well done. Like I said in a different thread, I'm currently building 2 holsters for this pistol, and if I didn't know better I wouldn't know just how big this thing is from your photos. Great holster!

I'm currently building 2 for a Judge right now. Any tips on this one in particular? The cylinder on these things is huge!

Thank you for the compliments! Each one I build seems to get better and better. @gearjammer - I use the same process to burnish it as I do for any other leather. After the edges are sanded and beveled, I use a slightly wet sponge to wet them, and rub them with a Sharpie. I can typically get them pretty shiney with just water. After that, I go back and do the same thing with pure beeswax in place of the water. A light buff with a small cloth and a piece of nylon stocking, and we're in business. @brinyar - I've seen your work, so I value your opinion greatly. The Hermann Oak is really nice. I know some people prefer the Wickett & Craig (which is what I think you are using), but after trying this stuff, I have no desire to switch. One thing I have been looking for is the really deep grain I see some people have on their work. This leather provides that, and it drinks up the dye. I'm very happy with it.

Lobo, First off, nice pistol. Those Kimbers are real nice. My brother has a Clackamas-made Custom, and it's real perty. The prototype looks good! I like the idea. I've never made an Avenger style holster, but the reasons to use one are pretty clear. Your high-ride design is one that I'm sure many will be interested in. Regarding the welt area: I didn't see it in your photos. From your post, I gather the welt is on the rear wing, but then re-reading and re-examining the photos, I'm not so sure. I thought a welt was an area where you add another layer to increase thickness to decrease width. I do know that what you have created is a hidden tunnel loop on the rear slot, and our own BOOMSTICK does a magnificent job at this. He could probably advise you on certain aspects of keeping it strong and maybe certain anomalies with this style. If the welt is indeed what I thought it was, then I don't see how adding it would help all too much keeping the grip in. Seems to me that a welted area with slot cut normally and put behind the belt would offer more rigidity and stability. I'd be interested in seeing this and knowing what you use to stiffen the mouth up. I'd expect the mouth to close up a little - not crush flat. But no distortion? Anyway, great start on this and I'll be sure to follow this thread to see the final outcome! I'd also love to see it worn, too.

I think you have it. My comment about it being an M3 design is based on the pattern, not how it's worn. I'd be surprised if the M3 wasn'tworn in different ways during it's tenure. Nevertheless, it's clearly atried and true method. I'd personally prefer a larger grip area cut out from it, and a proper fit that's been molded. I could live without the retention strap myself. From the way I read it, it looks a littlesomething like this when worn

I finally decided to give Kevin @ Springfield a call and ordered a full side of his Hermann Oak. I wish I would have done it sooner, as this stuff is a dream to work with. I find it easy to cut, and it molds better than any other leather I've tried. The grain is nice and deep, which yields a great looking finished product. The leather is wonderful, and between working with the material and talking to Kevin on the phone, he's earned a loyal customer in me. My neverending hunt for better leather is over...finally! As usual, comments/critiques welcome. Leather - 7-8oz Hermann Oak Color - Fiebings dark brown Finish - resolene, slightly diluted

Yeah, looks just like the M3. I think a cut under the grip to allow better draw would help. Here's a photo of someone wearing this style holster: