dickf

I do the exact same thing, except I wrote my system to send an email coming from me with a link to a Paypal page to pay. When the user arrives, they have the option to pay with Paypal or credit card. The nice thing about the mail coming from me and not Paypal's site, is the user can reply to it directly in the event that they'd like to pay with a money order (it's happened a few times now).

I'm sure you know that I'm quite flattered by this! Your gear is always top-notch, and that's no joke. I really dig your thin detail lines.

Hi Jeff! I personally think that an IWB with thumb break is a liability and not safe. If you're going OWB, then that's a totally different animal. Decent boning along with friction from being inside the pants and the added rigidity of a belt should be plenty of retention. An IWB is a means of concealment, and getting past your cover garment and drawing cleanly and quickly is hard enough - adding a thumb break only complicates things and makes a potential situation even more dangerous. Just my 2 cents. Good luck!

Wow. You're really moving along quickly! Did this cut of 8-9oz HO harden up for you this time around?

Thanks, guys!!!

Very nice as always, Bruce! I really like the clean backs - it's classy.

Hi fellas. I recently did a couple full size 1911's in dark brown and 1 that ended up being kind of an experimental finish consisting of brown, black, and extra amounts of den. alcohol. I also did an M&P in dark brown only to realize that asking my bro in law if he's left or right-handed is not enough - you must ask which hand they draw and shoot with! D'oh! So, I made a left hander and have his new right hander on the bench. Anyway, they're in 7-8oz HO and look and feel even better when you've got 'em on. As usual, C & C is welcome. Thanks! And for good measure, here's my first closed bottom rig for a small (tiny) Kahr P380 (lighting in this one was terrible - I was in a hurry to get the holster out the door to deliver to a LEO) Here's one for a P64 and my own personal carry belt that I made. There are so many opportunities to mess up a belt, I'll probably not be making these for sale for quite a while!

I don't think it's necessary to groove the backside at all. The holster looks great and the color is superb. Was your thread originally white and got colored from the wet mold? I need to find a way to avoid that.

I think it looks damn good. What color, brand, and method of dye are you using? What weight is your HO? Where the hell is the CBOB? I look forward to seeing your work and I never tire of seeing your DW!

This page has everything you need, I think http://www.sailrite.com/Categories/Pull-The-Dot-Snap-Tools

Ditto

I see - I use the same software for work. Most people that use DW get it from a friend or ahem, 'borrow' it, if you know what I mean. It's not cheap, and to not know how to code anything wouldn't make sense to buy it. I reread my post and it sounded a little crass - sorry about that. There are several free alternatives to Dw that are really great. One is Notepad++. Don't be afraid to learn - you can do this if you have been putting together your own site - especially if you've attained any comfort in the Dw IDE. The code is easy to understand once it's broken down and explained. I assume the code in question is the php, so here you go: A $ denotes a variable. You can assign it any value you like in the form of a number, string, etc. In my example, I was assigning it the value of the posted value of the form elements. $myVariable = "Troy"; The above is perfectly acceptable. In the same example, I think you can see that a . joins strings and variables together. So // outputs: Hello. My name is Troy.echo "Hello. My name is " . $myVariable; Finally, the mail function. It's a built-in function specific to the php software installation. It takes these arguments as a minimum: // "to:", "subject: ", "from: ", "message: "mail("youremail@yourdomain.com", "Website mail", "adifferentEmail@something.com", "Hi. Mail is fun!"); If you need any help with this, I can help you. I've attained lots of help from leather pros on here, so to give back in this way is good with me. See ya around! Chris

Paul, Dreamweaver may not be the best tool for you if you have no idea what you're doing, which makes me wonder why you acquired it in the first place (cough cough), but you need to use some php or asp to make your form data go through (depending on which one the host you are using is running). If you create a form in html, you need to give your inputs names in which your server side page will request from. For example: This is a silly example of a form in html <form action="my_processing_page.php" method="post">My name <input type="text" name="my_name" /> <br />My specialty <input type="text" name="my_specialty" /> <br /><input type="submit" value="Send form" /></form> The 2 input values you're passing are `my_name` and `my_specialty`. So, using a server side language, you need to request these values and then do something with them. Here's a php example <?php$my_name = $_POST['my_name'];$my_specialty = $_POST['my_specialty'];// this is your address you want the mail to go to$email = "your_email@mywebsite.com";// the sub of the mail$subject = "Mail from my cool new site";// what the mail should contain$message = "Someone sent you some mail. They said their name was " . $my_name . " and their specialty is " . $my_specialty . ". Weeeee! ";// who should it look like the mail was from? If you use their email, you can just hit reply and send them a reply (since we didn't ask for it on the form, we'll just make one up for now).$from = "my_mailman@mywebsite.com";// send it off!mail($email, $subject, $message, $from);?> There are some other specifics involved, like adding extra header info which some hosts require, but this is the basic workflow. Hope it helped!

I wasn't going to reply to this, but I will simply because my name was mentioned and I feel like I was called out. I think Particle's work looks great, especially considering that his holster count is in the single digits. I don't see anything except maybe a slightly more scalloped trigger area that I would change from his pattern. With that said, all of my advice (which is free) has been about safety - not construction methods or being critical of anyone's work. Jeff gives good advice (also free) that I think lots of rookie and experienced holstermakers alike don't know or forget sometimes: above everything, the holster must be safe. Ultimately, Particle will do what he thinks is the best thing for his customer. I think we all agree with this statement: So it goes without saying, that if the safeties are oriented too differently between guns, the same thing could happen. This is the only point I was trying to make. Good luck!

I completely disagree. A quick look clearly shows that there is a sweat guard on this piece and that the thumb safety is boned into the leather. This is a rear photo of his same holster, which is exatcly what you'd expect to see from looking at the first one.

The safety area isn't an area you want to fool around with on a cocked and locked holster, in my opinion. Get the right mold is still my advice.

I could be wrong, but I don't think the frame size is the same. I would decline until I had the proper gun or mold to do it right.

Nice looking holster and great cbob!

If you're out in the sticks and get crappy reception from Verizon, then you're not pulling the max 1.4 mbps that they advertise. As a result, you'll likely not notice a whole lot of difference with the DSL the phone company wants to sell you. Plus it will be more reliable and no bandwidth cap. I'd do it. Just because a provider says you can get x-y speeds, doesn't mean your going to get y. There are too many variables that dictate what speed you end up getting. Add more (variables) to the mix with a cellular connection vs. an actual pipe. *edited because I'm crap at proofreading my posts for spelling

I think that's likely going to be the route you'll have to take if you want to modify it. Shouldn't cost much, either.

This is the best way to it, IMO. Especially if it's just 1 holster you're doing. If you do buy the blue gun, be sure to get the c & l version.

If you right-click the image before the detail box drops, you canselect 'View Image' and it will open the image in a new tab, scaled tofit your browser viewport. This is for Firefox only.

This, in my opinion, is where certain aspects of custom holsters and belt setups start to become noticeable from mass-produced goods. I'm not a fan of those metal clips to begin with, but add a proper carry belt and you can see they weren't designed to accommodate carry belts. I say make yourself a holster to match your belt - you can likely rival or exceed the quality anyway.

I agree with Denster.

Are you using wax with your canvas? The edge looks good to me, but I know exactly what you're talking about regarding the little snaggies. The wax lays them down for me. I run a piece of nylon stocking over the edges after I'm done burnishing - give it a little polish and snags where the edge wasn't burnished enough.