Scary Leatherworks

Odin try Ken in the above post. Thanks Ken I ended buying something. Also Odin you can contact http://www.tippmannindustrial.com/ and ask them. I emailed them and they got back to me quickly they still service them and occasionally have one for sale

Thanks for the replies. I was just trying to get an idea of what I may need. Just wanted to have an estimation on the size comparison of the 2 styles of thread.

I got it from here on Etsy. solid brass and hand cast. it's a door knob for a cabinet. http://www.etsy.com/shop/billyblue22?section_id=6056001

awesome guitar strap

found these on Ebay http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=tippmann+boss+&_trksid=p5197.c0.m627

Tandy's thin veg tan is usually under "lining leather"

I think that the hold-up was as stated earlier that they had their shut down which just ended. They started shipping orders again on the 17th I believe. I was looking on their website and noticed the shutdown. I called and placed my 1st ever order with them in the beginning of the shut down so I know how you feel. I waited last week watching for my money to be withdrawn as well. I figured they had a lot of orders to get shipped out when they started again. I must say that the leather I received was the most beautiful side I've ever seen. well worth the wait. and now I have to wait for my new Cobra class 4 to arrive, which I'm sure will also be worth the wait Scott

Since as you say this is more upholstery I was wondering how you do the stitching? I can't even begin to imagine how it's done. very nice work also

I usually hand stitch with 7 cord waxed linen but I was wondering what the machine thread size would be for bonded nylon. is the 207 or 277 close to the same diameter or do I need to go bigger?

here is another cover for a 9x12 sketch pad for my "Gorgon" line (Medusa was a Gorgon) 6/7oz veg tan, saddle soaped and all the nicks and dings (most don't show up in the pictures) antiqued. The "clasp" is a hand cast solid brass anatomical human heart and the pencil holder is grey lizard. Scott

I agree Ohio Travel Bag has a great assortment. I recently made an account with them. I also buy a lot of buckles from http://www.buckleguy.com/ and have always been happy with my buckles. I do know what you mean though I've seen some high end bags with such interesting buckles and clasps that I can't find anywhere and then I was told they have their stuff cast exclusively for them. Scott

I've been thinking about getting a leather sewing machine and saw the "Boss" I like its simplicity but I don't think the handle operation would work for me while trying to sew a case or bag. Then I saw a post about an aerostich and really liked how it functions and can be slowed to 1 push of the pedal= 1 stitch I went to the Tippmann site but only see the "boss" or sale. Do they still sell these?

http://www.brettunsvillage.com/# These guys are leather suppliers in Auburn they may have some info on learning opportunities. I googled directions to Tandy in Chelmsford MA it's a 3.5 hr drive. If they were having a class it would be worth the drive. I've been in there a few times and the people are great. Scott

I just went to Maltese leather facebook page. He is from Indonesia! not much work on there now maybe 4 or 5 seats. none that I recognized from here.

I have and use the burnishers from spinner they work great, although I still use canvas and elbow grease from time to time. How should I apply the saddle soap or gum trag. to the burnisher then work it in or directly to the leather?

leather balm with atom wax made by fiebings

I have been saddle soaping my edges lately to get them to burnish nicely. I like the effect but the soap is "staining" my leather. I am using undyed veg-tan. the soap makes a dark stain on the grain side where it contacts during burnishing and I have tried to keep it to just the edge but that seems impossible. once the soap has made this dark area I can't get it out even if I saddle soap the entire grain it remains, much like a spirit dye if you spill a drop on your leather you can't blend it in. I've tried yellow and white soap, straight out of the can, wet sponge and lather, even diluting it in water. I'm about ready to go back to plain old water burnishing. anyone have a tip or two? no pics right now but if needed I can reproduce it on a scrap piece I'm sure thanks, Scott

Nice looking piece. Unfortunately black dye is notorious for rubbing off. Most people covered it with Neatlac to seal it in place and I don't think that is on the market anymore (although I could be wrong) Neatlac made a glossy finish I think but I don't know since I've never used it. I do however have an unopened can of it but prefer to use other things. I'm sure the other seat builders will chime in but my process is stain with an airbrush (yes you can layer) then I add leather balm with atom wax for my resist (sprayed on) if I'm going to antique. final seal with leather balm to seal antique again sprayed on to prevent blotching my antique. then after it's all sealed I use Kiwi neutral shoe polish for a water resist. P.S. are you wearing pink crocs in that pic Scott

http://rojeleather.com/stingray.aspx some here. tandy also has a small selection.

layzybum I got those from "the buckle guy" http://www.buckleguy.com/products/SL120-30mm-Natural-Brass%2C-Belt-Loop%2C-Solid-Brass.html Scott

I made the pattern.

Thanks Ferg for the heads up. I checked "preview post" prior to and they looked like they were sized well. the above ones should be better. Besides smaller is better to hide my flaws Scott

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