epiphanist1248
-
Content Count
55 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by epiphanist1248
-
-
On 11/20/2021 at 11:05 AM, chuck123wapati said:give Hunter a call.
@chuck123wapati I don't know what that means?
-
Hi folks! Does anybody know where to find hardware for making gags, like ball gags, ring gags, spiders, etc.? Ohio Travel Bag has a few silicone balls and a pony bit but I'm trying to find a wider selection. TIA!
-
-
@DuncanSinclair Well she wants a leather one so what's a man to do.
-
I want to make more costume and armor pieces, and right now my wife wants me to make her a hood (she calls it an Assassins Creed hood) so she can cosplay her rogue from Pathfinder at the Renaissance Festival this year. And I have some really good lambskin I think will work, I just ... don't know how to do it. Are there patterns available for this sort of thing? Not just hoods but other clothing too. I don't mind paying a little bit for a good pattern as long as it doesn't cost a fortune. TIA.
-
@SaddleBags how do I tell though?
-
@fredk Thanks!
-
OK, so bear with me, this may be a really dumb question but I'm asking it anyway:
I've recently started to do more carving. I have one swivel knife with the 3/8" blade it came with. I want to get different blades for it to do finer work, but some of the blades are 1/4" and I can't find a 1/4" swivel knife. Can I use those blades in the knife I have? Or am I just not looking hard enough? I'm confused, and I don't want to spend more than I have to. Thanks in advance.
-
Like the title says. Every project, every finish, always ends with "buff it to a shine." I remember something about people using a Dremel to buff, which would be great if I could find my old Dremel, but I wondered too if I could use something like this to get a good shine or if it would just tear off the finish. (People use them to shine up vintage Mustangs so it can't be that rough, can it?) There are terry cloth and fleece bonnets, and probably others. Thoughts? Comments? Success and/or horror stories?
-
48 minutes ago, Tugadude said:You can get these for less than $3.00 if you work at it. Notice it also has spacer holes and level lines on it too.
Yeah bud, I said ^^ I have one. I actually just used it like 20 minutes ago.
-
12 hours ago, Tugadude said:However, something I use a lot is a centering ruler. It has a zero in the center and both metric and Imperial measurements going away from zero. Quite handy for quickly fiding the center of most anything.
I actually have two of these. They're great.
14 hours ago, LatigoAmigo said:The grid is built into my self-healing cutting mat (33" x 58"), and I built my workbench to match. Would not be without it.
I have a grid mat, too, but that's no good when the leather's on top and you can't see the lines.
2 minutes ago, LumpenDoodle2 said:I use one all the time. One of the most useful tools you can have.
What size do you use?
-
Just wondering if anybody's ever used a grid ruler - Omnigrid, etc. - for working with leather, and how useful they are. If you like using them, what sizes do you use?
-
On 3/8/2018 at 6:55 AM, zuludog said:Sewing Velcro is straightforward enough
Does it have to be leather? I've sewn Velcro to nylon fabric & webbing by machine, no problems, and nylon webbing would be easier to keep clean. Just seal the cut ends with a candle or lighter flame
If you use belt leather that could be too thick to sew by machine, and hand sewing would take longer.
I think in this case nylon webbing would be a better choice than leather
I'm not saying you're wrong (if I were buying toddler belts in the store, I'm not sure which one I'd pick for my son). But I actually have belt straps already cut. I'd just need to cut it to size, dye it, and sew the Velcro on. Plus, it's not a lot of Velcro; I can do that much hand sewing during my son's naptime. And, ya know, it would be a paying gig. Not a lot, but still. Enough to justify to the wife why I do this.
-
A friend and fellow toddler parent was complaining that her daughter is so tiny that her pants keep falling down, and I suggested that I could make her a little pair of suspenders. She wasn't too keen on that idea, but maybe a belt? she asked. But something that would be simple for her daughter to undo when they start potty training. The idea that we came up with (or agreed to look into further) was Velcro. So I'm picturing a 1/2" or 3/4" strip of leather with a little dot of hooks on one side and a strip of loops on the other.
So, I've got the belt leather, and Velcro tape isn't that expensive. But I've never sewn Velcro onto anything. (And I want to sew it on, so that it's nice and secure.) Anything in particular I need to know?
-
I'm repairing/replacing a watch band for a family friend. I want to use the original hardware, but it's not in great shape. It's cheap brass-plated and it has some kind of ... gunk? ... on it from the old strap. I've tried a few home remedies for cleaning brass with only limited success. Should I try taking a wire brush to it? I don't want to wreck it, otherwise I'll have to buy a new buckle set, which means extra cost for the customer (and me).
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
-
@kiwican So do you think something thinner like 2-3 would be ok? Like I said above, I'm mostly just upgrading from a brown paper bag.
-
@kiwican What weight would you suggest?
-
@YinTx Its a new book, hardcover, no jacket, that I'd like to keep in fairly good condition since I reference it quite frequently and I'd like it to last for many years. And I'd like it to look nice, though it needn't be overly ornate with tooling and stamping and the like.
Basically, I'd like to upgrade from the repurposed brown paper bag I've got on there now.
-
Oh great hive mind, lend me your wisdom:
I want to make a book cover/dust jacket for a great big slab of a book (like college textbook sized) and I'm not sure what kind of material to use. I really like working with oil tanned but is that right for this project? Would veg tanned work better? (I don't really want to do any tooling on it, so it's more about function than form.) How much stretch? How heavy?
-
Just curious if anybody's ever bought and used the punching/pounding/cutting boards that Brettun's Village sells and what their experiences have been. They look a little different from the repurposed kitchen cutting boards that a lot of suppliers sell and I wonder what the difference is. My main interest here is in punching (as in, the tool goes through the leather). Thanks!
-
One of my friends here locally has a Poundo board he doesn't want and is willing to sell me, but it's an awkward/irregular size (I think it might be a remnant or factory defect). Has anyone ever tried cutting one? I'd like to trim it down if possible to make it fit my with my granite slab on my work table.
-
On 6/10/2017 at 1:50 PM, zuludog said:By chance, soon after I became interested in leatherwork I met a retired traditional cobbler - in a pub, where else?
among the various bits of advice he gave me, he said that 'them green mats' were about the best cutting surface he'd ever used
"them green mats" are the self-healing cutting mats made by Olfa, I believe. I don't know about that brand, but I have a Fiskars mat and it's terrific. I think Hobby Lobby also sells mats under their own house brand. You can get a huge plastic cutting board like they use in restaurant kitchens at Sam's Club, probably Costco, or a restaurant supply store.
I also use that for pounding things like punches and chisels, where the tool goes through the leather itself. I know, I know, I should probably get a piece off Poundo or something, but for now the mat works fine.
For pounding rivets and setting snaps and eyelets/grommets, I use a nice heavy piece of poured granite (I think it's actually a remnant from a kitchen counter) that I got for $10 way back when. Durable and it really makes a difference to have something that thick and solid under the thing you're whacking. I super-glued a piece of cardboard to the bottom of it so it doesn't scratch up my table and it's easier to move around.
Thankfully, most of these options aren't terribly expensive.
On 6/10/2017 at 5:29 AM, LumpenDoodle2 said:Some folk use plastic as a soft surface, others use lumps of lead. Poundo boards (a la Tandy?), wood, leather, you name it, someone will tell you it works best for them. I'm a great believer in trying out other people's suggestions, then settle on what suits you best.
I agree with this so completely. ^^
In leather, as in life, there's a tool for every job. Have fun exploring!
-
@SouthernCross I've been afraid to use a dead-blow hammer because I was worried it wouldn't stand up well to hitting something small and narrow, like a hole punch or rivet setter. Has yours stood up pretty well? (And okay, at $5 I could consider it disposable, but I don't have time to run out to HF every week.)
@ChasCS Thanks!
-
@Dan Miller Thanks! So do you think a #3 or #4 would be too much? Maybe I generally gravitate towards overkill but I was eyeing the #4 pretty hard.
Tandy clasp machine screw size?
in Hardware and Accessories
Posted · Report reply
Not sure if you ever figured it out, but they are size M2.5 screws. I bought a box of them in assorted lengths on Amazon for $10. A bit irritating but now I'm all set I guess.