Dwight

ps0303, . . . you DID IT !!!!! I had found Lobo's post, . . . but the other one I couldn't get to come up for some reason. As soon as I saw her holster thumbnail, . . . I knew that was it. Time to get the old crock pot fired up, . . . I thought it was 50/50, . . . but wasn't sure enough to commit the resources until I saw it in print. Shoot me a PM with an address, . . . once I get it all made up (and I know it works like I want it to), . . . I'll send you a sample, . . . you can "smearymint" too. Thanks for the help. May God bless, Dwight

There is another way, . . . one that has been real good to me. AR and tap water, 50/50, room temperature to start with. Take a 1 inch or so, CHEAP, bristle brush. Nylon don't work well for me. Dip the brush and slather on the mixture, inside and out, . . . I usually start on the flesh side, . . . soak it good, . . . and just keep brushing. You will work up a bit of lather, . . . nice little piles of bubbles all over. Quit adding liquid at that point, . . . just keep brushing, . . . left, right, up, down, sideways, . . . keep brushing until there are no more bubbles. Hang up to dry, . . . if it isn't glossy enough for you, . . . do it again. I like to hang mine in a window and let the sun's heat do the drying, . . . but in the winter, it's over the heat register. May God bless, Dwight

OK, . . . I give up, . . . need some help. I did the "search" thing for the past hour or so, . . . could not find the post I was looking for. Some time in the last 8 months or so, someone posted about using (if I remember correctly) a mixture that is neatsfoot oil and beeswax, . . . kept it in something like a crock pot, . . . used it I thought for special deal old west looking holsters. Anyway, . . . I've got a bunch of beeswax, . . . an old crock pot, . . . some neatsfoot oil, . . . but I wanted to re-read the post or at least get a better handle on how they used it. Just got the itch to "experiment" but wanted to get boosted off in the right direction. Anybody got a handle on this? Thanks! May God bless, Dwight

Thanks, olliesrevenge, . . . I tried making one unlined just for the heck of it, . . . and it did not turn out to suit me. As for the copyright, . . . I would never assume to make an exact copy of the Tucker, out of respect for his labor and his originality. I simply have an acquaintance (a nurse) who wanted a holster for her Glock, . . . and I really thought that one made in a similar pattern would probably suit her needs fairly good, . . . and still not reflect against Tucker's legal rights. May God bless, Dwight

Just out of curiosity, I have looked at yours, and on the official Tucker website, . . . is the front flap actually two pieces of leather, or is it just one piece? I wasn't able to figure it out on my own, so I just figured I'd up and ask. Thanks, may God bless, Dwight

Another way to do it, . . . punch one hole clear through, . . . re-position the punch so that the left end of it is in the hole already made, . . . slowly and deliberatly lower the rest down into the slot until the right side touches, . . . 1/8 of an inch farther to the right, . . . smack the punch and now you have a 1 5/8 inch slot. You should get a cleaner cut than round holes and chiseling, less cleanup that way. May God bless, Dwight

Susan, you did not say how many "multiples" you wanted, and if the number is very many, . . . especially if it is a recurring shape, . . . you may want to investigate a company you can find at www.weaverleather.com . Go to the "supply" link, then "demo videos", and click on "hand operated clicker". This is the "premier" way to get pieces cut in a shape that will be virtually identical in every respect, one to another. I don't have a cost, . . . but you can contact them, . . . and if you don't want to invest in the clicker, they can make the die for you and cut out your shapes for you, . . . sending you the cut pieces ready for your use. May God bless, Dwight

Actually, it is for a nurse (imagine that !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!). We only see each other occasionally through our work assignments, but just as soon as she gives me the order, . . . I'll make it, . . . May God bless, Dwight

I have long bemoaned to myself that the whole forum had no "preview" for a thread's OP post, giving one a heads up as to what it was all about. I made my daily pilgrimmage to the site tonight, . . . voila, . . . previews abound. Thanks much, . . . very appreciated from this end. May God bless, Dwight

Congratulations, good luck, best wishes, . . . and as one old cowboy used to say, "May the good Lord take a liken' to you". While I really enjoy making holsters and other leather goods, . . . I am not sure I want to get to the point that I would do the same. I kinda like keeping the living room in leather (finished & unfinished). May God bless, Dwight

Another thing you can do is go to Wally World, go to their sewing section, . . . tell the lady in glasses that you want to purchase the blue handled snap setting tool that should sell for around $10.00. It is great for 24 snaps, . . . and even sometimes when it is a bit on the short side, . . . because the way this works, . . . it will compress and make it work for you. Not everytime mind you, . . . but sometimes. It also puts snaps on so that they don't come off, . . . and I really love that. May God bless, Dwight

Necessity may be the mother of invention, . . . but laziness was Invention's father. First, get some chisel point leather needles (Tandy sells them), get a spool of thread for this also. I like size 346, personally. Buy needles that will allow the thread through the hole, . . . and then if you hold the thread taught between your hands, . . . the needle will slide down the string using only its own weight. Put the needle in a cheap $39.95 Harbor Freight drill press, . . . then unplug the thing. Drill a 1/4 in hole in the center of a flat sanded 1 x 10 about 24 inches long, . . . screw it down to the drill press table so the hole is directly below the needle and the needle can go through it. Cut a piece of thread about 4 times as long as your stitching plus 24 inches. On the first hole, . . . pull the thread through the leather piece, . . . now you have half the thread above and half below the object you are stitching. Move the needle back up and out of the leather, . . . then force it down at the next hole, . . . then pull up slightly, . . . creating a small loop under the leather piece, . . . thread the other end through that loop, . . . then pull the needle up and out of the leather. Pull both ends until you have the place that the threads cross up in the center of your project, . . . you have made your first stitch. Keep up doing that and you can sew anything in about 2/3 the time it takes to hand sew with an awl (at least for me it seems that way). You'll have a bit of aggravation at first until you figure out how to hit the correct loop underneath your project, . . . but once you figure that out, . . . happy stitching. May God bless, Dwight

I believe Hidepounder was the one who had a really neat post a few months ago on a book cover. Check what he did, . . . it may be your answer. May God bless, Dwight

Will Ghormley has a package of patterns you can pick up on the internet or at Tandys. It is the way I do all of mine, and I have had no complaints at all on them. Basically, the liner of the belt is 5/6 oz, . . . outside is 7/8 oz, . . . loops are 4/5 oz, . . . you punch slots directly behind the cartridge, and thread the loop up through the slot, . . . around the cartridge, . . . and back down through the same hole again. Your fingers will be sore, and your hands raw when you finish up a 24 cartridge belt, . . . and you do it with the loop leather dampened, . . . pulling it TIGHT on the cartridge. I usually use about 8 cartridges, . . . the first one stays in its loop until I need one for loop # 9, then I move it, . . . # 2 to 10, etc. Rivet the first end down before you start, . . . bevel and slick both edges, . . . then cement the whole thing together. Be sure to get cement on the back of the loops, . . . that way they won't come loose later. PM if you have any more questions. May God bless, Dwight

I make mine somewhat different, . . . 1) The placement of the front loop on the "front" of the holster instead of the leading edge, will allow the butt of the weapon to swing away from the wearer's body. This could make for a faster draw, . . . but it also will print badly under a lighter garment. 2) I would lose the nut on the backside of the rear of the holster. Place the male piece of your snap between the two pieces of leather before you glue and sew, . . . they you can sew around it and add the strap later, . . . or as I do, . . . put the strap on with the snap before glueing and sewing. It gives the back a more professional appearance. Just my $.02 May God bless, Dwight

Unless I missed it in the literature, . . . Resolene has a UV blocker built into it's formula that Sheen does not have. That should make your projects that will get a lot of outdoor activity, . . . a little less susceptible to harm from direct sunlight. It is the reason I use Resolene instead of Sheen, . . . other than the fact that I can get THE finish I want with a paint brush and Resolene, . . . and not necessarily so with Sheen. May God bless, Dwight

I guess the basic shape should be just a little longer than suit coat length, but not as long as the one you pictured. Fringe on sleeves, across back and front. I will do some bead work for each front shoulder area, . . . maybe one in the center of the back shoulder area. It will be a button up the front, . . . I absolutely detest a pullover jacket, . . . sweaters OK, . . . jacket, nahhhhhhhhh! I still haven't decided on the inside vs outside for the shiny side of the skins, . . . I haven't decided if I want to line it. It will definitely have a couple of inside breast pockets. I don't know the pros and cons of the lining thing and the "shiny in" vs "shiny out" thing, . . . need to get that settled first. Thanks, Luke for the pic, . . . that is one good looking coat, for sure. May God bless, Dwight

I'll trade you the secret for a pup from your poster picture (just kidding, . . . beautiful dog !!!!!). I do mostly CCW, IWB holsters and belts, . . . and I use Resolene on 99% of them. The best way I have found that leaves no streaks, puddles, whatsoever, . . . : a) thin it down using the 1 part Resolene to 1 part water formula, and get a small (1 inch or 1 1/2 inch at the largest) paint brush, . . . make sure it is a natural bristle brush, . . . and it can be the cheapo, they work just as well. I start with the back (flesh side) of my holster, . . . and brush it on liberally. Go to the front, . . . brush it on liberally also, . . . go back and forth, up and down, crossways, . . . brush till their are very few big bubbles. Go back to the back again, . . . and add another liberal coat, . . . this time brushing (and adding liquid) until you get a good foam, . . . then brush out until the foam is gone, . . . even the little bubbles are busted up, . . . you will see brush marks in a real good light, . . . but as it dries, . . . they disappear. Do the same to the front of your project. I get absloutely beautiful results when I hang it up and let it dry like that in the direct sunlight, . . . second best is over a register in the winter time. On some, . . . I come back and do another coat, . . . same identical sequence, . . . and it really puts the shine to it with the second coat. Don't forget to finish up with the edges. A buddy uses it full strength for the edges, . . . May God bless, Dwight

Thanks, Smalltown, . . . I've been looking for a pattern that I could literally do in a blue color, . . . for a special project. Your picture was just exactly what I needed to see. May God bless, Dwight

Now, don't take offense, . . . and don't laugh. The answer to your question is very simple, . . . you ain't lazy enough ! I don't remember who it was, . . . but some years ago I heard a comment that went something to the effect that it was lazy people who saw improvements because they were not going to bust their backs doing things the hard way, . . . just 'cause that was the way it was done. I'm not perfect at it, . . . but I always ask myself if there is an easier way. Oh, . . . and "Get a wife", . . . no that is not the answer to that question above. May God bless, Dwight

Frank, . . . do you have any kind of drawing, . . . sketch, . . . dimensions, . . . etc. I cannot personally understand what you meant by a "tan bound edge all the way around". Do you mean laced? Do you mean another piece of leather sewn around the outside like women used to use bias tape on their aprons? Holler back, . . . we'll help as best we can. May God bless, Dwight

Several years ago, my most important mentor passed on, . . . leaving me among other things, . . . several beautiful medium brown buckskins. I put them away, . . . but want to get them out and make them into my own fringed buckskin jacket. I went out on the web, . . . looked at 3 hours worth of patterns, . . . and came up with the following questions: What is the advantage / disadvantage of the flesh side being out verses the flesh side being the inside of the garment? If the garment is lined, is that lining glued to the leather, or just sewn in? Did in fact the native american buckskin jackets have a collar similar to a man's shirt collar of today? Thanks, may God bless, Dwight

I use my wife's kitchen island (only place long enough to lay down a 52 inch belt all at once). The "face" side of the belt lays on the counter, face down, buckle end to my left. Cover the right 2/3 or so with newspaper. Lay the liner down and start, being very careful to get it started exactly where you want it. I then use my left hand to slide down the edges, feeling my way with my thumb and fingers, to make sure they are "aligned" correctly. My right hand removes the newspapers as I go, . . . and when I get done, . . . I trim the flap end and I have a double layer belt that is pretty much ready to bevel, edge, stain and finish. Sometimes there is a little bit of sanding, . . . but mostly not. A marble rolling pin from one end to the other is more than enough "press" to put the belt together if you use good cement. The key to this is to set your strap cutter, . . . cut both blanks at the same time, . . . both the face and the liner. Absolutely no one is capable of going back and re-setting a strap cutter to the exact place it was some time before. He may do it occasionally, . . . but on a regular basis, . . . the second cutting will be a few thousands over or under, . . . making you have to sand or trim the whole belt, . . . UGH! If you want to do "batches" of belts, . . . cut your blanks wide enough to make 6 or eight belts. Glue up that oversized hunk of cow hide, . . . when the glue dries, . . . take your strap cutter and cut the blanks out of the big piece, . . . the edges then should be no less perfect than the job you did cutting them. May God bless, Dwight

I may not have your problem, because a long time ago, . . . I found out that starting out with 6 or 8 inches of thread and bobbin thread, held in my left hand for the first few stitches gets me started right. I stop at about stitch 10 or so, . . . reach back with a very sharp knife or scissors and cut both threads flush at leather level. I then sew all the way around, . . . ending back up where I started, . . . so my locking stitches are the last stitches I make. I try to make any sewing I do, . . . end up in a circle if there is any way at all possible. It doesn't work on belts, . . . so sometimes I just start out, . . . double stitch the other side where I end up, . . . and take the 6 or 8 inches of starting thread and hand sew the lock stitches. Of course, . . . I don't cut it off as I said above, . . . because I know I'll need it later. I also gave up a long time ago on factory settings, . . . I tightened up both top adjustments, . . . until I pulled the thread to the top, . . . tightened the bobbin until I pulled it through to the bottom, . . . tightened the top ones again until I pulled it through to the top again, . . . and then tightened up the bobbin again until it pulled it through to the bottom again. I then tightened up the top until I had a good stitch, well centered in two pieces of 7 oz leather, . . . then I locked the top adjustments in place with lock washers and nuts. It allows me to sew just about any part of my holsters I make without adjusting the machine at all, which was what I wanted. It works good for my belts also this way. The back comes out better this way also. May God bless, Dwight

My contribution to the discussion had to be the one I made about 18 mos ago for a local squirrel hunter. He bought a brand new stainless Ruger .22 auto with a long fluted barrel and some kind of green glow front sight that probably stood up about 3/8 of an inch on the barrel. Plus: he wanted his initials on the side, . . . a retainer strap, . . . and he wanted it to allow him to put a scope on the gun. I did it, . . . but it wasn't easy. The front was open all the way down to the front sight, . . . you pointed the weapon back behind you about 45 degrees, . . . stuck the muzzle down into the bottom of the holster, . . . rotated it back to set on the trigger guard in the holster, . . . and snapped it in place with the retention strap that went over the grip. My stitcher would not sew the thing (too thick to sew), . . . but it did at least make the holes, . . . so hand stitching it wasn't too bad. No, . . . I didn't charge him enough May God bless, Dwight