Dwight

I use a home made tool for odd ball holsters, which I try to make only using a wrap around pattern (as opposed to a pancake type). For this, I have several wooden disks, about 3/4 inch thick, each having a hole in the center that just allows a lead pencil to pass through it. I lay the handgun down on a piece of manila folder, . . . place my wooden disk down flat next to the trigger guard up close to the handle of the handgun. I put a pencil in the hole and push the disk along the contour of the gun towards the barrel, . . . when I get to the front sight, . . . I stop. Being very careful to not lose contact with the manila folder, . . . I roll the handgun over on its other side and continue with the process of pushing the disk around the coutour of the gun. This gives me the "shape" and "size" of the gun: plus half the diameter of the wooden disk for stitches, molding, etc. My 1 inch disk (giving 1/2 inch of working room) is my favorite, and works for pretty much all I have tried, although I have larger and smaller disks available. You then add space for a trailing belt loop, . . . sweat shield, . . . extra leather for a closed muzzle, . . . etc. and you have a fairly reliable first pattern from which to start. Nice thing I have found is that usually it is just a smidgen too big, . . . and that is a whole lot better than too small. May God bless, Dwight

When I make a similar holster, . . . I do two things to help the stitches: 1) all of the "parts" are first put together with contact cement, and 2) all of the stitches are gone over with a tool I made that flattens them down into the dampened leather (John Bianchi has a name for that technique that I disremember right now). Additionally, . . . I use my thumb to "roll" the upper edge of the holster away from the weapon, making sort of a funnel effect that greatly assists in one hand re-holstering. It is not enough to "show" under a cover garment, just enough to move that top row of stitches on the outside edge where most wear would occur anyway. Anyway, . . . works for me. May God bless, Dwight

For what it is worth, . . . Resolene works fine without an air brush if you first thin it 50% with water. I use a 1 inch camel hair brush (el cheapo at that) and I keep working on the piece until the bubbles are very small. Normally, I can do an IWB holster (inside and out) in about 10 minutes. I do my finishing just off my wife's kitchen, . . . so spraying is not an option for me, . . . and I am very happy with the results I have gotten using this system. I only have had one bad experience with Resolene, . . . it was on an oil based stain I was trying, . . . and the project turned very dark for some reason. It was my only unexpected result, . . . but the customer was OK with the color so it worked. Normally, I use a solvent based dye, vs. oil base, . . . and the colors are rendered true under the brushing of the 50/50 Resolene mixture. May God bless, Dwight

I need some hopefully expert advice: Harbor Freight Tool Co. advertises a pretty good looking walking foot leather sewing machine for I believe $599, with an optional table for another couple hundred bucks. I was just wondering if someone out there has already bought one of them, . . . and of course, . . . is it a good machine. I rarely sew anything over 3/8" and if I do, . . . I have a Tippmann Boss that is awesome in the heavy stuff. Thanks for your assistance, may God bless, Dwight