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alpha2

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Everything posted by alpha2

  1. I have recently seen a video on you-tube from someone in Asia. They used pieces cut from what appears to be a version of the "Mister Clean Magic Eraser". Well, my trophy wife just happened to have one of those under the sink. Soooo, I pilfered a piece and tested it with both Edge Paint, and dye. Amazing results. It holds more of the edge coat then you would think, and distributes it very evenly. I would call it "idiot resistant", realizing that idiot proof is not possible. I'll be trying it out on some current projects and get back to you all on my results. Experience so far has been very favorable! There are various versions of the magic eraser, the original, one with a wavy outline that is slightly more abrasive, and then they get into some with Dawn dishwashing liquid in it and one other that I think is even more loaded with cleaners. The original looks to be the one to choose.
  2. WAY too many duplicates for me to buy the whole bunch. Some nice stuff broken apart, though.
  3. After reading this again...I have no idea what "suy" means. I can only assume it means "supposed to". I have an HP laptop, and it does what the last one did. It inserts the input into the location of the cursor, or some other random location. Never again...
  4. I got their splitter that doesn't have the gradual lever. It does ine with fixed depth splitting. (I did sharpen the blade myself). I would like to have the gradual lever to have the ability to make a gradual skive. But, the one that I bought does what it's suy
  5. I've never used eyelets, but with my buckles like that I use either a 3/16" round punch, or a #07 (7/32") oval punch, so you can figure a 3/16" eyelet should work.
  6. I recently bought a "slight" upgrade from the basic Tandy kit bevelers, yep, I forked over the cash for a Craftool Pro beveler, size 0. It's all I use now. So, a slight upgrade in quality beveler is that significant improvement over the base model. Cased or dry, it cuts one nice, purdy, (as JLS would say) strip of leather. When you go to burnish, it's effortless compared to the raggedy a$$ed edge you found previously. Slightly turning the tool inward toward the inside of the piece, or outwards toward the face, will give you a predictable edge. Nice. Changing the angle of handle to work will also give you immense control over the cut. I can only imagine what a truly quality tool can do for you!
  7. I tried my first piece finished with dye instead of edge paint. FAR easier to apply well. Now I just need to refine the process. The first step in the "refining" process is to stop trying to fit edge finishing into a few minutes here and there between other jobs.
  8. It does like properly cased leather. And like he sez, heavy maul or double tap! If you go the double-tap route, make sure it doesn't bounce. Unfortunately, you can't hide a scribe line with this one like you can with the basketweave stamp. I do a FAINT line with the ball end of the scribe tool. I'm considering making something with a laser to put the line where I need it without scribing something that will show up when antiquing or staining. Nice belt!
  9. I looked at the website also, and found that the cotton is braided, the poly is twisted.
  10. Thanks for the kind words, guys! I've been looking at a lot of work online, and realized I needed to put a little more "oomph" in the basketweave stamp. It really made a difference.
  11. The first sling was serious learning experience, and this one was almost equally so. The Ranger Belt was as usual...a learning experience also. So, it's good, right? I'm learning! As I recall, I had said previously I'd post an image of the second holster with the appropriate revolver in residence.
  12. I tried a spatula just yesterday for the first time. That was an experience. I did find that I had to go much slower than I originally thought. Not a fan. I can see where practice would help, but the potential for disaster seemed quite high.
  13. Welcome from Ft. Collins! LOTS of good info here.
  14. Interesting...I'll have to try that. JLS, I'm loving those saw-tooth leaves!
  15. I've seen that! I keep forgetting to get one. It really looks like the answer.
  16. I use a small dauber, they work better the second time, after use I wash them out and when they dry, they are less fluffy, and you get a better line. I keep trying other readily available items, but keep coming back to the dauber. I bought one of the Craftool roller applicators, but can't get it to work well at all. Sometimes simple is best. It's all about control with edge finishing. I was using edge paint until recently when I've started working with just a dye. Jury is still out on that choice. Thanks for the info on the background tool.
  17. Great start! Steep learning curve on the tooling, isn't it?
  18. Practice on scrap pieces to get your edge treatments improved. Experiment with different types of applicators. I've found that the applicator is the secret to good lines, I'm still trying to find the perfect one. I really like your backgrounding! What tool was that?
  19. Looks like you might have the beveling tool angled a bit, causing the edge to bite a little. You can also tap the beveler lightly and close together over your orignal bevel to smooth out those marks. Nice job, though!
  20. Nice! What is it about fresh leather that makes dogs sleep? Oh, wait...dogs, never mind.
  21. Far speedier than I expected when I clicked on it! Nice!
  22. It is possible that the brand you are using is sub-standard. Pre-drilling with the appropriate bit will work fine with any quality brand, assuming it's sheet metal and not plate that you're trying to "drill" into. (Pre-drilling should NOT be needed for proper grade items and appropriate thickness sheet goods).
  23. Nice! I'd not really considered doing a wallet before, now you've ruined that for me! GoatSkin...hmmm. I can do that!
  24. That's where I lost the edge distance. Somehow forgot to allow for the sanding and shaping. BTW, I lied about the saddle tan, this time I used Eco-Flo Briar Brown 50/50 with water. I am presently using Fiebings spray finish for the first coat, then antiquing. Buffing between each coat of stuff, at least two coats of finish after final stain. Thanks for the compliments, my friends!
  25. Yeah, I've been moving the stitching in a bit lately. I noticed that too. Thanks.
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