alpha2

where are you located? I'm looking into getting some of Bob's blades and am not happy with any of the hafts I have so far.

Looking good! I've seen "bolder orange" though!

Lately I've been making some wallets with edges and leathers that "don't burnish". So, here's what I do. I wet my finger with water and run it around in Saddle Soap, and apply it on the edge. Then I burnish the heck out of it. Then I apply some beeswax to the edge. Again, burnish the heck out of it. If that doesn't do it, I wet it again with Saddle Soap, burnish and again, beeswax and burnish. It isn't a veg tan burnish, but it's fine for this leather. Seriously, it doesn't usually take that many steps. I realize that after all this it likely won't accept dye or stain if that is your intent, but it does give an edge that is acceptable in most cases. In my opinion anyway! At least it's not just a raw edge anymore, and that is my goal with this stuff. I do on occasion apply some stain first, then do this bit. That gives the color you would get by dyeing or staining it.

It's a LONG way from 7/8 to 3/5. Did you gauge it? You can split 7/8 down to 3/5, but it's not easy to go the other way if that's what you were needing!

Good idea. I love rare earth magnets. These are on a plug strip at my bench. They hang on to the plugstrip and release the tools, except for the roller at the left. The wide metal bracket on the roller pulls the magnet off of the plug strip, no big deal, it goes right back on when I'm through using it.

Yep, that's paisley! Interesting.

I don't know where that info came from initially, I just found it on this forum. I use Tandy stitching chisels, I don't particularly care for them, but I haven't come up with the bucks for the good ones. There are some nice ones in my future, though.You have to put a lot of time and effort into the Tandy ones to make them easier to use.

I got one of the Tandy ponies when I started this leather thing. I got the higher level one, but it still needs some help to be "not annoying" to use. So far I've re-contoured the top of the clamp. (cut/peeled off the leather, contoured the wood on a disc sander, reglued the leather.) It was just too blunt for my liking. I also added a wire to guard the thread from hanging up on the wing nut. THAT is really annoying! Then, I counter sunk the bold head at the other end of the bolt from the dastardly wing nut. There are many ways to immobilize that bolt, this is just what I came up with. As you can see from the pictures, I have some extra Styrofoam insulation hanging around. I used contact cement to put a small piece on each side of the clamp, tapered so as to not let the thread hang up. Also put a larger piece at the bottom of the clamp to hold the awl. It's all easy stuff to do, but it makes a huge difference when trying to get a stitching flow going. Oh, and still had a lot of Styrofoam, so I made a holder for various misc. stitching stuff. It won't last forever, but I can make a thousand more with my stash of material.

Very nice! You'd better be careful...that girl is going to want to snag you permanently!

We all told you about it in the chat room...But that didn't work out too well!

The smallest thread I use right now is .8mm Tiger Thread. I also use 1.0 a lot. I like both of these at 7spi. Here's a pic of .8 Tiger (top) and 1.0 Tiger both at 7spi.

I don't have the comprehensive list you're looking for. I'm looking for it too! But I do have a couple of things that might get you started. This something I picked up here on the forum: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What's the difference between Câblé linen, Lin Retors Extra, Lin Retors, etc.? All of the corded linen lines are great products, each have been perfected to different sewing applications. Lin Retors often comes in small sewing thread capsules and is a single twisted thread used for embroidery and cloth sewing. Lin Retors Extra is the next step up- three strands twisted and then retwisted for extra smoothness and durability. Lin Câblé is yet a another step up from that, in that it is moistened and smoothed for even more strength and durability. Which size is best for me? Overall our threads are suitable for most leather goods. The thickest size is 332 and the finest size is 832. Picking the best thread weight for your work has a couple of considerations: Strength- Use thicker (332) thread for heavier duty items or items that you think will get more stress. Stitch Count- Our pricking irons are mostly 9 teeth per inch which is universally suited for all of our thread sizes. If you choose a lower iron number (7pti, 6tpi, etc.) use thicker thread. Conversely, use a finer thread for higher iron numbers (11tpi, 12tpi etc.). Aesthetic- 332 and 432 thread is commonly seen in more western looking items while 632 thread is seen in more luxury and European items. Is the pre-waxed thread sticky? The wax that comes on the Lin Câblé thread is not the cheap kind that are found on other brands. It is not very stick and does not wipe off on your hands. The wax is light and holds well while sewing. Many people will still run the thread over their waxing block to give it an extra layer. This is also perfectly fine. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Also this:

Ah, yes. It would be a challenge to get the angle and pressure just right for each bit, but that's what we all have to deal with, isn't it? I like it, though, it's unique, and gets you a lot more possibilities with fewer tools.

Good idea! Not a fan of the curl. I'd need more space, though.

Pic didn't show up.

Yeah, I did some paisley, back in the '60's. Don't remember what the result was, it's kind of a fog... Wrong forum?

Well, the difference between that and the first picture, is exponential. The pear shaders is pretty good. Try to use different levels of decorative cuts, a central strong one, and a couple of lighter ones on either side. Always follow the flow of the flower, no straight lines. They should all follow a curve to the center of the item. GREAT improvement!

I've gone to an impressed groove and don't use the cut groove these days. With soft leather, I don't use a anything but a scribed line. I did once cut a groove in a piece I'd already stained. That was a mistake! Some items are a lot more likely to get abrasion of the thread, some quite a bit less so.

Craftool Pro 88057, 3.5mm (7spi) is the tool, other sizes I saw in Cheyenne Tandy store had the same issue, as did those in a couple of the Denver area stores.

I'd say use cedar, but put some kind of fishnet material between the wood and leather. Anything that will breathe, but not allow the leather to contact the leather. I didn't realize bugs were a thing with leather. Is it a Houston thing? My only concern here is sunlight on the leather. It turns out that cows can still get sunburned after they're dead!

I got the 4 in 1 when I started out. It's beyond bad. Live and learn, now I have the Pro ones, so I didn't save by buying two sets!

So THAT is where I left that darn shoe!

I have a couple of Craftool Pro chisels. The pic illustrates the issue I have with them. I stopped by the Tandy store in Cheyenne yesterday to look at their stock. Most of them had the same issue, one or two didn't. The "serrated" sides on the tines don't help the tool easily enter or exit the leather. I can file them down, and I likely will do so, but it's frustrating that Craftool didn't see their way clear to make them properly. I could also grind and sand and polish my regular Craftool chisels, too, but that's kind of the point of spending the extra on the "Pro" series, isn't it? I have a serious hankerin' for the Crimson Hide tools, also. $$$

As it's not a final finish, I suspect it doesn't matter. You're only resisting the application of the dye/stain. As a final finish, you would use what would give you a matte or shiny finish. I'm not so big on the gloss, so I go with the satin.

"Lead thread"...good to know. I hadn't considered that as a "thing". I know if I do an antique, paste particularly, the thread cleans up the leather, at the expense of the thread! It's little tidbits like this that really make this forum excel.