alpha2

Here's one without the flash, much better rendering of the contrast!

Finally got to use the airbrush. Dark brown on light brown. Nothing earth shattering, just an experiment. I should have gone darker on the edges. The contrast was a bit better before I used my magic sauce (beeswax, paraffin, neatsfoot oil) on it. I learned that I can't thin the dark brown enough to get it to spray through the #1 needle/nozzle. I cranked the psi up to 40+ before it sprayed, then it was intermittent. It just backed up into the jar. I strained the dye, too. Still, the #2 worked fine. It certainly saves on dye over swabbing it on!

Thanks, guys! Pretty much what I thought, can't be too careful though. I cleaned a plastic-handled mouth mirror (dental supply guy here) once with MEK...came back and found a small line of plastic powder! THAT stuff is nasty. So, garypl, you're saying that the expensive small bottle of Fiebings Dye Reducer is a scam? (Thought so).

I managed to make a 3 strand belt work out for my trophy wife, I don't know how you manage it with a 5 STRAND bracelet! Good for you! Liking the scale stamps.

Nice color! What is the lining? I'm looking at making at least three of these for my lever actions. No scopes, but I'm thinking the Stohlman book will set me on the right path. ANKU? And we REALLY want to see the rope border!

Sooo, I finally got an airbrush. I find that denatured alcohol works great for cleaning up, but I broke the OLD dispenser lid off the metal container. I've put the alcohol in some plastic containers that look like the mustard/catsup containers with the conical spout. Do I need to worry about the alcohol causing the plastic to deteriorate? I know that alcohol will cause upholstery fabric (faux leather type stuff) to harden and crack after a time. 2nd question, how about mineral spirits? I see they use it to clean rubber printing rollers, but that's temporary contact. I've got a can of that too, and it cleans up pretty well, too. Pouring out of the large cans into the gravity feed cup of the brush is fraught with peril.

Interesting. I've never seen one of those before. Maybe if you were joining two pieces with a lap joint? I'd like to see some work that used it.

Welcome Joe! You'll find a LOT of info here. I know it has been a great help to me. If it wasn't for Leatherworker.net and youtube, I'd have to go back to my old hobbies.

Yeah, the sock thing is a mystery. When I get dressed in the dark, then around noon realize that one is brown and one is black, I think back to my sock matcher did it in the daylight. ??? Good thing I wear my pants a little long to cover an ankle holster. I don't mind the holster peeking out occasionally, but mis-matched socks?!?!? Never!

That's some artwork there!

Probably still don't have your coffee. Women!

I found that I tired quickly of having to change to the 2 prong to go around corners, then back to the larger part. I was doing a project with a lot of corners. Ugh.

You know, I've done a LOT of things in my life that I wouldn't do again. For many reasons, but once done, it can't be undone. Some of the "one off" things I've done, I would NEVER do again. But I look at what most people don't do in their lifetimes, and I'm really glad I did it. They can never take away from you that you made those amazing booties. The name hardly does them justice. I was thinking, "stupendous, eye-catching, got to get me some of those- booties". Simply amazing. Oh, and one other thing, do you realize that a LOT of people will be asking, "WHERE did you get those booties???" Guess who's name will come up.

Sam Browne studs, named after their use in "Sam Browne belts", popular with military and police uniforms throughout the world.

Thin stainless cable through the D rings. Or a really BIG dog...

I, (WE) feel your pain. That being said, I've found that the "end of buckle to Most used hole" rule is only a starting point. I've also found that if a Ranger belt, the addl. thickness of that type of belt, requires a longer distance. Learned that the hard way. And, I did use the distance in the Stohlman book. I had to cut off the "hole" (non-buckle) part, and make another one. Also, when using the "standard" lengths, the overall length was fine, but using the last hole or two caused the end of the belt to be too short. It's a learning curve, and apparently you have to make the mistakes yourself, and learn. Expensive in terms of time and money, but the only way to actually "know" the proper dimension. My advice, make a mock-up of what you're trying to do, and cut leather accordingly. My NEW rule is to make the tail of the belt longer than needed, and finish accordingly. Incidentally, that is also addressed in most of the books. I'm sure, and hoping, that those much more experienced than I, will jump in right about HERE!

That is amazing. Talk about a one-of-a-kind project!

that is great news! I don't do Facebook, though, is there another way to contact them?

Be aware that there are 6 round, and 7 round 686's. Probably slightly different dimensions, what with the larger cylinder. It's called the 686plus.

I got it from "Geargarcon" of the forum here. It's a Bob Douglas blade, and he's now out of business. The haft is a medium Barry King. It looks fatter than most, but the fit in the hand is amazing! I was hoping to get some Bob Douglas blades when I discovered that he closed his business. His awls were famous. Now I know why. I know none of this helps you, sorry! Good luck in your search.

If the blade is polished enough, it will feel like it's "melting" or "flowing" through the leather. They can be sharp, but not polished enough. At least that's what I recently learned when I bought this one on the forum. I use this one as a baseline of sharp and smooth for the rest of my awls.

Oh, that's nice too, but I was talking about the blue grips on the stamps.

Nice work! What did you use for the grip area on these stamps?

Outstanding! Looks like you've been making them for years. See, that's the problem with wearing those upside down...the bullets fall out!

Wow. How did I not think of that? Thanks!