alpha2

No problem! I just had a Manhattan with Jack Daniels, it looks great to me! I really like the contrast of the sheath to the lacing. Very dramatic. A co-worker has taken up ax/hatchet collecting, and I'm dying to make him a sheath or two, but his son is doing the amazing sharpening for him, and also the sheaths. Bummed.

Not to worry, the trophy wife has the Gong Show recorded. It wasn't that good, for the swan song. As to the Morse code thing, I tried to figure it out, but the "spaces" are critical for anything to make sense. My favorite example...the USS Haleakala call sign is NSHI, which without spaces is dahditditditditditditditditditdit. Could be anything! Sorry about the thread drift!!! But you wandered into my wheelhouse...

Ha! I hadn't noticed the stitch spacing! NICE! How do you even DO that?

I've only recently started using neatsfoot oil, so take this with a grain of salt. "a few coats" of oil may be the original issue here. I use one light coat then let the piece dry for at east a full 24 hours. I don't use any at all on things that are going to be formed wet. As to what you can do to solve the issues now, I'll defer to someone more experienced. I'd try some Fiebings deglazer maybe, but that will remove more than the stickiness. You have dye, and stain maybe, and paint to think of.

Welcome from Colorado! Don't worry about your English, it's a lot better than my Italian!

Huge improvement on the POS sheath that came with it! I love what you did with the strap. Two of my favorites, too, Saddle Tan and Colonial Tan.

Did you use Cova Color for the paint?

Great thread to update! I hadn't seen it back in April, glad I didn't miss it entirely. Amazing job, stamping, first class, dye job, first class, edges, first class, a first class project, all the way! Unfortunately, it just shows how much I need to kick up my work!

That is an AMAZING project! I have an original one of those, and now I have to try to remember where I put it! It doesn't have the totally cool add-on that you did, though. If I find it, I'll post a pic. This guy, AirBear, used to wear it, but he either doesn't remember, or won't say where he left it. He's such a flibbertigibbet.

I can see where it would work with something like an LCP or Kel-tec, but not for something larger/heavier. If the back piece was thick enough, it wouldn't get that floppy, but then if you were going to go that thick, why not just do the two full size layers? I did make an OWB for my LCP, just because I could, but I'll never use it. If I'm going to carry OWB, I'll carry something more substantial.

I'm curious, why do you want spaces between your stitches? I hadn't heard of that before. But then, I haven't been doing this for very long.

I have to agree with garypl. The darker areas seem to be quite a bit lower than the surrounding saddle tan area. This makes it easy to keep the darker dye in place with no bleed over. Just like Sheridan style backgrounding.

I saw it in a picture online, I liked it too, so I had to try it.

This holster is also in Stohlman's holster book.

Why would Coach order standard and utility grades? Are these factory seconds, in colors that WC doesn't usually tan? Just trying to get some background on these. Could be a smokin' deal.

How about a paint stir-stick, usually thinner than a yardstick and about the same otherwise. Although, if you use wood, and it gets broken during use, that will be worse than not using anything. I like your 2mm PP idea the best.

Amazing! I'm loving that leather substitute for a roller on the buckle. I'll be trying that right away. The double keeper is also a nice touch. Ta in the States is short for Ta-ta...but few people use that either. I noticed the awl immediately, I have a Barry King awl that is formed for the palm of the hand, with a flat side, and it's the best tool I've bought. I can see that whatever that one costs is worth it over time.

Okay, I make belts, and holsters, etc., but I didn't notice the arrow being off a bit. Nobody else will notice it either. I was shooting a trap tournament in 99 degree weather today, though, so I may be just a bit off my game, but all I noticed was the great backgrounding and that there was a butterfly! I have to say, I haven't done one of those yet!

Fantastic first effort! You have every right to be very proud of that sheath. Made in Spain...not something you see everyday, on a knife or anything else!

If you do a layer of edge paint, then sand, burnish, sand again, then apply a final coat of edge paint, the coats will adhere to each other, and the final coat can look pretty good. I'd begun to think that edge paint was evil, then realized that it was just a solution to a different problem, and have started using it again. Remember...there is no "right way", there is only "different right ways".

Thanks, Bob. I know you'll let us know when you get to trying it out.

Well done!

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but what is RTC? I use Satinsheen and Resolene, applied with an airbrush. (The resolene, not the satinsheen).

Wow. Is this forum cool, or what!?

Wow, that's a lot of fonts. I downloaded quite a few...now I have to find a use for them!