SolarLeatherMachines

I really think you should be able to get more than a couple of hours out of it, but it depends; amperage draw drops off after a certain percentage of depletion. We're selling it for $1500. I've never sewn on a Pearson, so I don't know. I'm sure one of the posters here has has been able to compare them together.

Couple of things here: I've been thinking about a solar powered battery setup to go with our machines. Several customers have showings at fairs that don't allow generators and don't provide power. The nuts and bolts are all there, just have to put it together. The big question is how long a 4500 would run on a standard car battery. I've sewn on a 900b, and I think it's a very nice machine. If it's well adjusted, you'll get years of good service from it. The parts issue is true, however. Second, I happen to have a Ferdco 6/6 that I fully refurbished for the fun of it. You can crank this by hand with it's manual wheel. It's sitting in my showroom right now, waiting for that perfect person.

Not sure where the $160 comes from. I'm a factory dealer, and our plates are $125.

Hey guy, I'm in Arlington, just outside of Dallas. If you want to bring me just the head, I can sort it out for you. We have a test bed that we'll mount it on.

Ok. If it get's a little more interest, maybe I'll order some for stock.

Try this. I've been thinking about getting one, although I may try a gantry lift instead. https://www.uline.com/BL_1821/Manual-Lift-Tables?keywords=Lift Tables

Not the greatest pic of the color card, but it might be helpful.

We carry the Amann thread as well. The Serabraid is super nice. However, all colors are not available in all sizes from Amann, so you'll have to call and check for each size & color combination.

Unfortunately, I don't have a Bull handy to measure. But if you need a plate, maybe this will help. These are the plates we supply for the CB-4500.

Wow. That really IS odd. Normally only 1 washer is required and that nails it. (Once I spent a whole weekend working on trying to find a better way to fix the reverse....no luck. Washers are still the best way.) That sounds like something is loose on the bottom end, too. Wouldn't hurt to go through and ensure everything is snug.

Sure. The main shaft is the key. It is "zero" and all parts must be relative to it. Specifically, the round "groove-cam" at the end of the mainshaft is permanently mounted on in most cases, so it's the one item that won't change. That cam has a step machined into it that attaches to the needle bar dog-bone. It is this step that is a major landmark, since it is easy to spot, and doesn't change position relative to the main shaft. Timing the machine is simply a manner of rotating this cam to the various angular positions(horizontal, vertical, etc) and setting the baseline drive pieces into position. Each drive piece has a particular cam rotation, and a corresponding position. Once you get these 2 major pieces into correct rotational position relative to the cam, everything else is cake. This level of timing problem is really rare. I'd be surprised if you have it, but you can check. One of the indicators would be that the hook assembly is turning in the opposite direction of the normal motion.

Check this post and see if it looks like any of the tools there:

I think it still is a type of matting stamp, but not one that is available from Tandy. There are a couple of makers out of eastern Europe that sell into the US with tools that are like this. One of them, Sergey, is on here. You might ask him if this is some of his work.

Anyone try the SeraBraid product? I have a roll here, and not really sure if I like it.

The problem is that my bar-tab for whiskey would cost more than the course!!

Another assembly option: Clecos would also work well to assemble it together. And they last forever. You can get them several places, but here's a link to one version. http://www.eastwood.com/panel-holding-system.html

Great looking bag! Some copper rivet accents might be nice with that. Super clean work.

COMPLETELY agree. The blades as they come from the factory are not sharp enough. Not even close, and they have a lot of "scale" on them. The blade should have the surface polished and must be sharpened to a razor's edge before use. Any of the official Cowboy retailers will be able to do this for you, and will also be able to re-sharpen the blade periodically.

Basic timing fix for a 441 Style machine. This covers just the basics.

Hi Max, Charging $8 each for shipping is CRAZY. I would never do it. You can ship 5 guns, well packed for about $12 Total via Priority. Wow. Crazy. Do people DO that?! There's also another option. The SENDER can pay the postage on stamps.com and send it to the shipper. I would be perfectly happy to do that. EVERYONE hates paying shipping.

JLS is correct. Dealer pricing is 39. Initial buy is is $1500. But if you don't continue to buy in bulk, you'll be dropped as a dealer. Pretty standard arrangement for a dealer. In addition, if you want to blame someone for shipping charges, blame the USPS. The reason that everyone uses Priority Mail is because the USPS wont allow standard package rates to be printed on computer (stamps.com) without a huge account sign up charge. Most small dealers (me) end up having to leave the shop, run to the Post Office, wait in line, to send the package the cheapest method. So Priority Mail is easier, and tracking and insurance is included. (who buys extra insurance?) Not to mention the cost for weights up to 1 lb are the same. (oh, and priority cost is different depending on zip code. It ranges from $5.40 to $8.50 depending on where its going, and a lot of you live in the sticks) Not to mention boxes, and padding. Envelopes don't work well: Ever see what a gun looks like after the USPS or UPS truck puts it at the bottom of the stack? That little box alone is $0.75 -$1.50 (Uline.com)....and paper and tape. That stuff isn't free. Not to mention that people complain about the slightest scratch. Further, You're probably going to wait on that initial order of 40 guns. Ring's is a great company, and I enjoy working with them, but like anyone else, they have production limits, and it can take weeks to get in an order. Meanwhile, you're getting calls from some grizzled old bear asking where his blue gun is, and how he should have it by now 'cuz the guy down the street said he should get it in a week. Let's not forget the building to put the guns in, the electricity to power the interwebz, the heat....overhead, just the simple cost to open the door. So by the end of all that the dealer makes $2-$3....MAYBE. We sell about 3 a week. Do you really think that's enough to keep the doors open? So for us, Blue guns aren't a money maker, just simply a way to help our customers out. Most want a gun THAT DAY, and aren't willing to wait the 3 days from an internet supplier. So that's my 2 cents.

I'm a trained Mechanical Design Engineer from aerospace, and have designed MANY extreme precision machines. Now I represent Cowboy Machines in Dallas. Choosing a clone really comes down to the problem of "Better being the enemy of Good Enough". If the clone does a job that you're happy with, why would you pay more? For sure, there are some awesome machines coming out of Germany, but those prices are awesome, too. The timing marks are helpful but not essential. There are other landmarks (bosses, journals, flats) that are carved in the mainshaft, and THOSE are the primary timing landmarks. Once you do a few hundred machines, you simply start at one end, and adjust them down the line. For a completely, seriously honked-up machine, it can re-timed in about 20 minutes. I totally agree about the soft metal in the fasteners. Especially in the allen screws. I now have a vast collection of properly made hardware, and anytime a fastener is in question, I replace it. It save so much time in the long run. -Alexander Solar Leather Machines

Hi Jacob! Your machine is on it's way to you! Hope you like it! Oh, and we're expanding our Cowboy Showroom in Dallas to 4000 Sqft. We want to have a small classroom, too. We hope to start having some classes (belts, holsters, etc) in a couple of months. Let me know if you're interested. Best, Alexander

The key with all splitters is to have an incredibly sharp edge. Our test is simple: It should be sharp enough to shave the ridges off your fingerprints. Literally. When I sharpen them here in the shop, I have to call out ahead of me when I'm walking back to the bench. Anyone who bumps into me is going to the hospital.

It would be on the low end of the Machine's range, but it would sew just fine. I would use a 92 thread. Getting a flat slotted needle plate would help, too.