SolarLeatherMachines

By far the biggest thing you MUST do is take pics of models wearing your purses/bags. Savvy customers can tell a lot about the product if it's displayed on a actual person (color shift, size, flexibility, etc). (Note: I used to make private label handbags for high-end designers. They ALL did photo shoots with models.) Also, this may be a generational thing, but if you don't have at least a phone, and the only way to contact you is via email, then I assume that customer service is atrocious, and that you want customers to stay away.

Bahahaha! "Nice Software, Stephanie!"

Texas Custom Dies can and will make dies from your paper, cardboard, or leather patterns. They do this every day. Get ahold of them. They're good people.

Here's the story on this machine. I sold it new. This is a custom pinstriped CB-4500 that I had specially painted with the Yellow & Blue Rose of Texas for customer in Arizona. She paid a premium for the paint, but let me tell you, the entire machine was REALLY nice. The roses extended all the way down the stand and across the pedals. I have pics of the whole machine somewhere. If I find them, I'll put them on here. The machine was packaged and shipped like normal...and then it went MISSING. The shipping company "lost it", then said that we'd never shipped it in the first place. However, we had paperwork, signatures, pictures, and most importantly, insurance. (Solar ALWAYS buys shipping insurance!) So, the shipper was on the hook, and looked for the machine for about 3 weeks. Meanwhile the customer was getting impatient(rightfully so). She'd been really VERY understanding and VERY patient with us, and for that I'm thankful. After 3 weeks, I had to call it a loss, I refunded the money, and the customer drove all the way from Arizona to pick up a sleek new special edition in my shop in Dallas. Truly an exceptional customer. This machine is the only one painted in this manner. There'll never be another. It's very distinctive, and I knew it would show up. We were paid for the insurance loss, so I don't consider it stolen. However, I do have some theories about how it disappeared in the first place. The reason that the handwheel is missing is because the special editions are specially packed in separate boxes to keep handwheel pristine. Apparently, whoever ended up with the head couldn't get ahold of the other parts. There is a matching stand and handwheel floating around out there. Those will show up eventually. The seller of this head has already been in contact with us. We provided a cost for the missing parts, and they declined. Assuming the head isn't damaged, it is brand new and in working order. -Alexander

No, not normally. I know I don't have any in stock. However, Uwe (user on here) sells a really nice combo package that provides the flip down guide AND the handle extender for the foot lift knob. I'd get one of those.

The CB-10 Runs on 220V power. Just did an update to our page on it. http://www.solar-leather.com/10-ton-cb-10/ Modifying a bearing press is a very effective way to get a manual clicker. However, unless you use heavy plate and lots of vertical stiffeners, the outside edges can flex too much. So use more metal when you build it. When in doubt, add more steel.

The PDFs might be accurate, but the PRINTER might not be. Most are off a bit. Test yours by printing a know dimension, like a 4" x 4" square. Measure it closely, and then expand the pdf image size to accommodate the size. Truly accurate printers are expensive, and most people don't have them.

Exactly Right.

Check to see if your belt is lumpy. This causes a LOT of problems like you describe. We routinely throw away 10% of our belts because they are too lumpy. The machine itself seems to be running smoothly.

I've used 99design several times for this.

You're looking in the wrong industry. The products you're seeking are CLIMBING ropes & tapes. Specifically "Tubular Webbing". https://www.bluewaterropes.com/product/1-tubular-climb-spec-x-100-yds/ https://webriggingsupply.com/rope.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwhqXbBRAREiwAucoo-05QRTDiQheTbOUMgtMdDFt8fLJch3VHWy0-BqaBQhHWU-TN3eVP1RoCOJkQAvD_BwE https://www.backcountry.com/Store/catalog/search.jsp?q=webbing https://www.feldfire.com/PMI-1-Tubular-Webbing--100-Yard-Spool_p_6309.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwhqXbBRAREiwAucoo-7OzNJ4IRhV5Xz0BSxZYqVYaEECY7MsNULjJ6LuCeMWwW23SAYDfLhoCWy0QAvD_BwE

You can use 7x3 size needles up to size 23 without issue. Above size 23, things can get problematic, and much depends on the material you're sewing. Good Luck!

Needles get complicated QUICK, but here goes: The CB4500 AND the CB3200 (and most of the 441 style machines) use a long type of needle system. The SYSTEM of the needle describes everything about the needle, but does NOT describe the diameter of the penetrating shaft, nor the style of tip. There are several systems in use, and different manufacturers use different systems. Generally speaking the 4500 & 3200 use a needle known as a 7x4, or 7x3, or a 794. These are SYSTEMS. (the primary difference between the 7x4 and 7x3 is that usually the 7x3 is for fabric, and 7x4 is a specialty tip, generally a piercing tip for leather). The SIZE of the needle is a 2nd number on the package, typically something like "25/200" and describes the diameter of the penetrating shaft, and by inference, the size of hole made (hole size is NOT needle size since leather contracts after the needle passes) Where 25 is the Singer needle size, and 200 is the metric needle size. Now, Singer and Metric systems DO NOT perfectly align, and so most needles are made to the metric size, and labeled with the nearest Singer size, rounded up. However, for the VAST majority of work, the difference between Singer & Metric is of no concern, since it's measured in nanometers. Sometimes, the needle systems will have an additional label that describes a tip that is non-standard: 7x4dia is diamond point(4way) and 7x4LR describes a wedgepoint with a rotation to the point. Many needle manufacturers advertise needles that are not commonly available unless you're prepared to order 100K of them. This is for factories who need specialty types of needles. As a general rule, and using the true engineering definition of the terms, Japanese needles tend to be tougher and able to take more flex and abuse, where german needles tend to be harder, and thus retain a sharp point longer. It's really a matter of preference, as both are excellent choices. Chinese needles are literally worthless, and I throw away thousands each month.

The 3200 Table as Solar Leather Machines builds it is 47.25" long x 21" Deep x 62" tall (with thread stand)

You need 7x3-23needles. You can probably get away with 7x3-22 needles.

Tonnage Calculation: Standard punch operation from Mark's Standard Handbook for Engineers - F= Lc x Tl x Sm Where Lc is linear inches of cut Where Tc is thickness in inches of cut Where Sm is Shear strength of material (can generally be assumed to be 1/2 of tensile strength) In an ideal world (shard dies, new cutting board, proper voltage from the wall) this calculation is very close. I've tested it hundreds of times. However many people are working with worn dies, chewed up boards, and low voltage from the wall. As such we use a "wear factor" of between 1.6 to 2, usually about 1.8 See the attached example.

Exactly. Not to mention that an modern industrial machine will hold its value quite well.

Solar Leather Machines CB-10s are about 900 lbs on the pallet.

Well, "I" like that machine, but you know......

It's best to call in directly.

Hi. Just saw this now. Yes the strap cutters will cut very soft and fine leathers. I do it often for the purse makers.

It's not a "Wouldn't", but a Can't. Leather binders are a specialty piece of equipment and require specialty machines, tooling and expertise. We'd rather send you to a professional company where you'll get a good product, rather than try to provide something outside of our area of expertise. You can also try Atlanta Attachment Co. http://www.atlatt.com/

Setting up a leather machine for yourself, and setting up machines for Customers are very different things. It is far more challenging to set up a Customer's machine because you must have knowledge of all the different ways that a machine may malfunction, and address those before you ship. After you ship, it's out of your reach, and you will have to diagnose those problems over the phone. All the major Dealers here (including me) have developed these skills over time and experience. It's one thing to know how to set the timing on a machine. It's another thing to be sitting on your couch at 9pm at home, no machine in front of you, and be able to accurately describe how to set the timing on a machine a 1000 miles away. All professional dealers can do this.

This too, is normal. When you first get a sewing machine, especially if it's your first EVER, it becomes your whole world. That 2 square inches around the needle become everything, and you notice little noises and marks that you've never noticed before. BUT, once you've sewn a bit, THEN go and look at some of the leather products that you thought were flawless. Your newly trained eye will find blemishes in the stitching and flaws in the marking that you would have never seen otherwise. Having excellent tools sometimes makes it harder to enjoy the finished product: You can now tell the difference between good craft and poor craft.

Bob Kovar of Toledo Sewing Machines carries Schmetz needles. Ask him. There's a chance he'll carry the P point. PCL is pretty rare and generally you'll have to order 1000 or 10,000 from a major supplier to find those. Sometimes, Dealers will have excess stock from previous orders, but it's like winning the lottery.