SolarLeatherMachines

I've spoken with Cowboy USA. At this time, he is an authorized dealer who is just starting out. Everyone starts somewhere, right? I remember when I had 5, and ONLY 5 machines in my shop. It will take time for him to establish himself in the market, and develop product knowledge. If you're in the area, you might want to check them out.

Great deal on this. Also, that's one of the larger 650watt motors. Slide drawer is definitely worth some money. If someone from Dallas/Fort Worth buys this, I'll give them a free service to make sure it's running well.

Yah. I've worked for over a dozen years as an aerospace design engineer for Boeing, Lockheed, Raytheon, Triumph, etc. I'm fluent in both systems, and can attest that the metric system is easier in all calculations. Americans don't like it because we generally have no point of reference, i.e. we don't know what 30 centimeters look like, but we know what a foot length is. Especially when working on machines, I prefer metric. The metric system for fasteners is vastly easier, provided you have the tools. most people don't have a full set of metric tools and that causes issues. The USA will change over to the metric. It's already happening. The most important industries (robotics, medical, automotive) are now mostly metric. Another generation, and it will be full adopted.

considering that shipping to that location is at least 350, and new machine is worth $2595 and an used one about 2100, you're asking for someone to take an almost $500 bath. Not sure that's gonna happen. Maybe if you went and picked it up.

Yes, exactly. I tell all my folks to do that. These things are too comfortable in the palm of your hand and you'll end up walking away from the machine...and have none there when you come back. before long, they're scattered around the house. A customer once told me how his wife's quilting parties always made raids on his supplies, and the first thing to disappear were these little black snips.

those are decent scissors, but for thread nipping, they're just a handful. I use these in my own work, and they do a great job. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/544bce89e4b0eb63aaac64f3/t/5c9be814fa0d603657bae433/1553721376060/Online+Catalog+Updated+3.27.19.pdf

Yah. It would make a big difference. Even just taking off 25% of the thickness would sharpen the edges without losing too much strength. check out this video:

Can confirm. Monofilament will cut grooves in your tension set over time.

I am very familiar with Amann threads. I used to be a dealer. They have many styles of thread, but I'm going to assume that you're using either serafil (unbonded polyester) or Serabond(bonded polyester) because they are the most common. Perhaps Strongbond, maybe. The main problem with Amann threads is that they are just too damn good. They are amazing threads. They're smooth, they're strong, they flow like water through the machines, and are packaged onto spools in a way that makes sense (length, instead of weight). They lay down on leather like glass and look AMAZING. I LOVE the thread, and love sewing with it on my own projects. But I HATED selling the thread. Most Americans here were raised on the coarse american threads or the chinese thread (nuff said). This thread has all kinds of issues, and people have learned to adjust their machines for those threads. But give them the Amann thread, and it's not stop complaints about how the machine won't hold tension, they can sew right, it won't work with their needles, etc. For the Amann threads you literally have to double the standard tensions to get a grip on the thread. Do that, and then swap back to american thread, and it's just a night full of cussing and screwdrivers. For Amann threads you should use at LEAST one size smaller needle. For 277 thread you should use a 794 size 24 needle. Maybe a 23. for 138, you should use a 794 size 22, maybe a 21. you'll get much better results this way. Btw, I have 200 cones of Serafil that I want to get rid of. mostly 277, 207, & 138, in white, and a few unrelated colors. make me a decent offer. Not kidding.

I'm the Texas Dealer for Cowboy. I would suggest the CB3200 PRO, which is the 3200 mounted on the pedestal stand. This pedestal stand can be set to a height of 41", which is quite tall. In addition, if you let us know, we will flip the base and mount the foot pedals further away from your seated position by about 10 inches. This makes it much more comfortable for a person with long legs or tall stature. http://www.solar-leather.com/cowboy-cb3200-pro Alternatively, you can choose the CB4500. Same stand, same option, greater sewing capabilities. http://www.solar-leather.com/cowboy-cb4500 Because we are the westernmost Cowboy dealer, we commonly ship to the Northwest states, and have many customer in those states you've mentioned.

Yes, it will. Exotics skive well on our CB-801, including alligator and crocodile. Overly rough reptiles have a little trouble, but regular side and belly leathers are no problem. I don't know about elephant, it depends on how thick and flexible it is. I have several customers who make custom boots that use our CB-801 to skive their exotic vamps. http://www.solar-leather.com/cb801-bottom-feed-bell-knife-skiver Important: do you know how to tell the difference between Alligator and Crocodile? One will see you later, the other will see you after awhile.

While I had a screen over mine, it didn't keep out the black widows. I had a massive black widow infestation that I had to clean out. It was a nightmare from hell for a arachnophobe.

Solar Leather Machines just sold one of these to a concrete manufacturer in Mexico. They use it for making the huge rubberized chutes that transport the gravel into various bins. We'll be putting it up on the website in a day or so.

uhh...where's it venting to??!

Wholeheartedly agree with all of this. Alexander.

Right? exactly. Machinery should solve problems, not create them!! The Bell knife skiver works great on upholstery grade leather that you would use for bags & purses, also thinner leathers for wallets. For these products, the 801 is indispensable. Also, if you watch the videos on you tube, they're always whipping the pieces through the machine. usually its foam pieces for shoes, and foam is SUPER easy to skive and fast to process. However doing leathers is a whole 'nother ball game. The poster above is correct: find a dealer near to you and go and see one of these demonstrated. A simple demo is worth a hundred online review from internet boffins. And darn good insurance on buying the right machine. All of the suppliers you list have a good reputation and make good machines. Obviously I have my favorite, but definitely choose the one that 'feels' best to you.

This is us. Have you ever TRIED to skive these leathers on this type of machine? You DO KNOW that the drag foot on top leaves drag mark in veg tan leathers, right? That the portion that goes under the foot gets a burnished look on the surface that most leather crafters HATE, even when polished to a mirror shine? Sure, I could sell you a machine, and then you'd find this out, and then be REALLY unhappy about the money you've spent. NO, I'd rather save you a bunch of hassle up front and TELL you why it's not a great solution for what you want.

Your spool valve is where all the hoses come together. It sounds like the electric solenoid that activates the spool valve is bad, and not fully cycling. find the spool valve and see if you can find a replacement. Parker would probably have a match.

It won't hurt it to take the piece off and inspect it. It MIGHT be a filter, but I'm guessing it's probably a check valve. Either way, be sure to clean the threads when replacing and consider some appropriate teflon liquid seal on the threads when you tighten it back down. This line sees a LOT of pressure, so make SURE it's on tight.

Hydraulic clickers now-a-days almost all use a type of fluid called AW ISO 46. This is extremely common and sold under a lot of brand names: Shell 46, Tulco 46, etc. Verify with the dealer if it matches AW ISO 46 and it should work just fine. Sometimes, the AW (antiwear) isn't available and you'll have to use regular ISO 46. This is usually not a big deal, since the AW is usually just some zinc and chromium additives, and it's usually just the spec'd default for engineers. You can pick up 5 Gal buckets of AW ISO 46 from Tractor Supply, and many times, get it from O'reilly's or Autozone. Your average clicker will take anywhere from 8 to 15 gallons, but usually 10 gallons is plenty. Do your self a favor, and when you change the oil, toss in a large magnet into the pan, to collect any metal shavings that may be floating around. Certainly won't hurt, but may also prevent something drifting around from getting into the system.

Check the solenoid for the spool valve. It might be bad, and not able to fully cycle.

Just an FYI on the CB-801: These machines are WICKEDLY sharp when we ship them. I find the safety cover doesn't get in my way, but I'm also glad it's there; I've cut myself badly just touching blade during sharpening!

Thank you very much for the high praise! It's an honor to be included with those names. Sincerely, thank you. Alexander

Great! Ok! They are good people. I’ll give them a holler ASAP.

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