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shoepatcher

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Everything posted by shoepatcher

  1. Send me pics of your bobbin winder please Amy. Lets see if you are missing anything. glenn
  2. Gears and rack are worn. Too much play in those areas from your video of the shuttle carrier. With no wear, the shuttle carrier should hardly move when you turn it by hand. You look at the drive pinion, following pinion, short rack and long rack for wear. Also check the bushing that the shuttle carrier shaft goes thru. You might have to replace all of those as well as the bellcrank. I have rebuilt shoepatchers for over 45 years so I know what areas to look at. glenn
  3. You can sew #138 on a Pfaff 335 but you must enlarge the hole in the feed dog and inner foot to accommodate the #138 thread. I also just touch the the corners of the space bar on the the machine. That is where the gap on the bobbin case is that the thread passes by the each stitch. 335 Pfaff do not have a bobbin case opener since they are a horizontal hook machine. glenn
  4. P means 4 motion drop feed. H4 is high lift. Probably using needle system #190 Nice machine glenn
  5. I have a manual written by Singer for the complete 29K70 shoepatcher. Will try to find it. glenn
  6. ok Your thread controller disc is off. It is just below the tension. Loosen the black screw and make sure it is in the center of the slot. Unwind the tension nut and take the beehive spring out Stretch the spring out grabbing each end of the spring. That will increase the tension in the spring when you put it back on and tighten it. By hand, turn the balance wheel and let us watch the hook pick up the top thread from the needle and let it come out the feed dog. Video needed of this. This will tell us if the bobbin case opener is set correctly. We can then tell you what we noticed is wrong. glenn
  7. Stitch length lever set at zero? pics please of machine glenn
  8. Constabulary stated earlier it was screw #544383 which is supposed to be the same as #237. Specs 9/64" x 40tpi. I would have bet it was metric since Singer changed a lot of parts and screws on the 29U series which was made in Japan not Kilbowie where all of the 29 machines were made after 1923. glenn
  9. Pics of the needle bar and the throat plate alignment. glenn
  10. For Pfaff 335. First set stitch length to 0. Remove the little cover plate to the left of the reverse lever. There is a big straight slot screw behind it. Loosen screw and it will allow you to move the rock frame with needle bar inside it. You turn the balance wheel until towards you and bring needle just above the feed dog hole. Now center needle in feed dog hole. Tighten big screw so that it holds. Turn balance wheel and see if it is centered in feed dog hole. If good, tighten screw good and tight. If not, re loosen screw and re center the needle in the feed dog hole. Tighten everything up if centered. Replace cover plate and set stitch length to max. Turn wheel by hand to see if everything aligns. Now good to go. glenn
  11. A lot of 30-1 parts no longer made. I have a lot of early 30-1 parts but in Michigan and they are not cheap. I would try to find a machinist to try and make you the end of the drive rack so with all the teeth plus some length. It then can be welded or pinned. I know for a fact the long rack no longer made for early 30 class. I even tried to have Adler make them. They would not. You can find used rings in Germany. The bell crank can still be ordered I believe. The lobes on the end are worn and could be welded up and re profiled. Nothing will be cheap. Great machines glenn miller
  12. thread size and needle you are using? More pics of the the tension area please. Also the model plate in front. Pics lease. glenn
  13. No I always to to restore machines to as close to as original. The reason is the engineers who designed it know more than I do. Plus they sew better. glenn
  14. The inner foot is out of sync. There is a screw for adjustment in the front of the machine if i remember. When you loosen it, it allows you to re-center the inner foot and the feed dog. Will be in the the mechanics manual for a 145, 545,1245 .
  15. Possibly. Grey Consew made by Seiko. White ones made in China. as to whether there was some crossover, maybe. glenn
  16. They did not come with reverse. This one had been retrofitted. Bobbins, order for 733 R Consew. Needle systems are 7x1, 7x3, 794. This machine will sew from #138 to #415 nylon and polyester thread. Bobbins same size as 97-10 bobbins. glenn
  17. Pics of the machine please. Does your machine have a bobbin winder on it? glenn
  18. The stitches have to be equalized. The mechanics manual for the 255 should be able to walk you thru the adjustment process. I do not have that manual. glenn
  19. I would say a shoepatcher. Looks like the stand for one that was made in Czechoslovakia. I saw one years ago. glenn
  20. Never seen one on a 69 class Adler. Not sure what it is for. glenn
  21. The H2 had 7mm of lift, earlier H3 was 11mm lift, H4 and white 335 pfaff have 14mm lift. Your 17/01 is a binder 335. Need pics of the machine. glenn
  22. wash both felts out with mineral spirts to clean them. The long worn wick fits under the staple on the flat felt. That sits on top of the rock frame that part #44 fits into. glenn
  23. Stupid design it sounds like. glenn
  24. Depending on what needle system is in the 733 Consew. . If going to 794 needle system form 1000, you will have to lower the needle bar since the 7 x1 and 794 are shorter needles glenn
  25. The 67 needs so cleaning up and oiling. Good machine. glenn
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