Alexis1234

I have an antique loop die that i want to use with smaller (1/2") keepers on harness. The die I have is too wide... What hand tools do I need to recreate this design by hand? I've searched and searched but all I come up with is out of date terms for tools that I can't find modern equivalents for. What hand tools do I need for the checkering and the raised beveled diamonds? Any help in the right direction is appreciated- Thank you!

I just saw on social media today - tack makers discussing where to get the LV logo "leather/vinyl... they don't seem to care if it's fake as long as it sells their bronc nosebands and tack sets .

Thank you! Yes, all the curves were free cut- I don't have any clicker dies. Patent overlays on hip and shoulder strap, drops are raised. Unfortunately, saddle is not tufted. Its lined and padded. Originally, I had made up a tufted pad panel and planned on lacing it on but I had a heck of a time getting the panel to line up/ sized correctly. Something to work on for the next one. I get my patent from Weaver.

Pretty slick idea- that pipe for a curved knife

I have been using an old Osborn. Originally, I bought a knife from Tandy, but found it was useless. I never felt any pain from this cut, crazy but I didn't!

After reading the replies, my knife is no where near sharp enough! I have stones and stropping compounds, but I struggle with getting the correct angle.

I apologize if this has been covered already- I didn't run across it. How sharp is sharp enough for a round/ head knife? Yesterday, my knife chattered/slipped and I ended up with a fairly serious injury while cutting horribly tanned patent leather... I swear it's because the knife wasn't sharp enough. My husband thinks otherwise. When is it sharp enough and how do you gauge it? I'm still learning. Thanks for any input.

I'm curious enough that I'm going to order a skein... From what I've researched I need "flat filament" silk. I want to know if it makes that much difference with hand stitching ( the look)or if it's all hype. I do intend to do smaller stitching- maybe 12 or 14 spi. I do 9 or 10 stitches per inch with hand sewing now.

Thank you for the replies. I looked at the pintrest board- lots of ideas! What I had in mind was the inner stitching row on winkers, face drops and perhaps saddle tops. I was curious as to what effect the old harness makers were getting with silk thread that was different from linen? From what I've researched it's supposed to be very glossy... I just wonder what that looks like against leather and how it holds up to sunlight?

I hardly ever offer my opinion on this forum. I barely know what the heck I'm doing so I'm in no position to offer advice .Those that have offered advice/critiques- I respect the work they do and have taken it.

In several old trade journals and books I've seen mentioned hand sewing leather with silk thread... has anyone done this? I want to try it for decorative stitching on harness. Any recommendations, insight or hints? I realize this isn't probably done much anymore, but thought I would inquire. Thanks!

I'm so sorry for your loss... I lost my constant companion of 19 years on December 15- I saved some hair. I'm in the same boat- don't know how to incorporate it in leather work. I was going to encase it in acrylic resin for a necklace, or I was going to try to do his pawprints and a nice poem in leather( a picture frame type thing).

Thank you!

I have installed stainless hame nails and copper rivets before, but never brass. Any tips on avoiding damaging the heads? Thanks for any ideas!

I once found a brand new harness made out of this stuff at an auction... black top was peeling off the compressed layers of leather straps(it was not supposed to be patent leather).It looked like they had been covered in garbage bag material

Yes, I am married and thank you- it was alot of work!

I sold my landis 1 last spring.This was sewn on a cobra class 4.

Me too. Is there any way to do that? These were taken on a cell phone and soo many little details are lost in the pics Thank you!

Thank you! It was alot of work. I worked on this off and on for about 6 months. The major hold up was the saddle... I had to design everything from the ground up including the tree, skirts, etc because I don't have access to any patterns and very limited information out there.. Lots of trial and error.

Big Sioux, thank you- I value your opinion and advice greatly. I had the majority of this harness done months ago...The saddle was very difficult. I kept making mistakes and wanted to throw it in the boiler on numerous occasions.

This is my 2nd attempt at harness. Lots of handstitching including all of the keepers. It was a learning experience for sure. I made plenty of mistakes, but I'm sure the next one will turn out better.

I use a chunk of lead- works great. When it gets too dinged up, just smooth it out with a hammer.

Beautiful! Very neat and clean stitching

That's what Iv'e been doing on shaped pieces- no problem. It's straight strap work (of all things!), mainly trying to do a really pronounced bead. I wonder if I should be be molding the leather before hand?

I have been struggling doing a heavy raised bead or raised strap work(in general) on horse harness. I have tried a couple different methods- putting strap thru a raised creaser roller and putting a filler under it or skiving a strap on either edge and using a rounding block. My problem is, it doesn't seem to want to sew that well. One side is sews nice and where it's supposed to be and the other side wants to go wonky or the stitching line is off as if there's not enough leather. Is there a general rule of allowance on the top strap? Any tips or tricks? Thanks!