Alexis1234

Since it burnished well, I would assume it's a veg tan. The difference in center color could be that the tannage didn't penetrate all the way thru the hide.

Thank you for the responses. I thought no one responded to this. I have stripped saddle. Looks like tree will at least hold tacks. I have ordered supplies and will post pics of progress. If nothing else, it will be a learning experience.

I was gifted an 1880's/90's catalog sidesaddle in poor condition that I have been wanting to take on as a project since I got it( several years ago). Besides obvious rot, breaks, etc how do I determine if the tree is even sound enough to be worth rebuilding? How old is too old and can you fix certain things? Any books recommended before I begin this? Thanks for any input.

Beautiful work!

My domestic sewing machine struggled sewing 9 oz canvas bags( folded hems,etc).I wasn't impressed with the stitch quality and you have to use lighter weight threads. I bought a used Phaff 145 H-3 for $225.00 last fall and it works well, just wish it was a cylinder arm.

Thank you all for the help. I looked at the Barry King site. I've been slowly buying tools since December and can see I need to add a few. An update on this project(saddlebags): I tried correcting the cut lines this morning and some of them were soo wavy there was no way I could acceptably blend them in/ soften. The closer I looked, the worse they were,lol. I need to learn to cut straight! So, it's back to square one.

Thank you! I'll have to put in an order with him

When I was getting mine up and running I needed a new spring( i forget the correct name) in the shuttle- I believe that regulates your bobbin thread. The gentleman in Illinois was able to fix it... I also purchased a 2nd shuttle and if I recall it was approx. $200.

Thank you both. Frekd how did you make your own if I might ask?

I am not happy with my cut borders- is there a way to soften/round them? They need fixing( they look jagged, uneven, unacceptable). I'm not sure if there is a tool? What am I doing wrong? Is this the way the are supposed to look? I am struggling with tooling. Thank you for any help.

I answered and tried to be as helpful as I could in your personal messages.The rest of your questions I think have been answered- I wouldn't get into leather work for the money. In my area, people don't want to spend $30 on a leather belt, let alone a leather tote or horse harness. I was told last summer at a show- it's a $25 leather bag. I think your best bet is to go online and find a niche market offering items that are unique.

I make the piece up, glue , use bone folder and tacks if need be and when it's dry I'll trim it.I personally use a round knife to trim, but whatever works for you- razor blade, scalpel, etc. For straight raised strap work I add 1/4" to the top piece- but don't hold me to that, it depends on what your doing and I haven't been at this that long!. Pics of 1/2" raised straight strap and a shaped martingale drop. I'm sure those with more experience will chime in.

I make the bottom piece the size I want, then I take a filler piece and bevel the edges of it with a french edger. Top piece is slightly larger.

I actually just bought one from Canada last week- but thank you

gorgeous, clean work!

I regularly hand sew thick leather(1/2" +) -driving bridle cheeks, driving breast collars ( certain areas of harness I struggle to sew with a machine), etc and what I do is i make my stitching line with a compass and on the face of the strap use a pricking iron to mark stitches. Then i use an awl to go thru all layers and help me determine first stitch. I then use a pricking iron and make holes on back side with the iron.

I'll give him a call on Monday. Thanks everyone for the info!

I am not familiar with SX. Do you recommend I contact Beilers?

Yes, I currently hand sew all keepers. I have several very pretty long cheek and tug dies that I would like to use.. I am familiar with how to sew them- going thru the face and using a die to cover up the holes. My problem is- I can't justify fiddling with them that long - very time consuming! I will hand sew them if forced to though.

I have been in search of a stapler for doing long box loops on driving bridles for several months(posted about this before).. I have never seen one in person and there is very little information/pics available online. Standard Rivet doesn't have them anymore. I can buy the anvil for doing them used... can someone that uses them for harness work specifically,( not belt keepers) enlighten me? I already have a hand held stapler for belt type loose keepers, that's not what I'm looking for... how hard is it to get the head/ foot press if I buy anvil used? Thanks for any input!

Bronc nosebands or browbands might be easy first projects that are horse related

Do you have a picture of it? I used a regular bench top vice before I bought my press

You can pick up vintage/antique scallop punches on ebay

Sending a pm

I currently have a Cobra class 4 and a Pfaff 145 h3. I need/ would like a cylinder arm sewing machine for sewing multiple layers of medium weight canvas on... what brands should I look at? My Cobra is too heavy duty for topstitching my canvas bags and a home sewing machine is not enough. The Pfaff would work perfectly if it was a cylinder arm-(I'm sewing bags). I would appreciate any thoughts or information. Thank you!