Alexis1234

Thank you! It was alot of work. I worked on this off and on for about 6 months. The major hold up was the saddle... I had to design everything from the ground up including the tree, skirts, etc because I don't have access to any patterns and very limited information out there.. Lots of trial and error.

Big Sioux, thank you- I value your opinion and advice greatly. I had the majority of this harness done months ago...The saddle was very difficult. I kept making mistakes and wanted to throw it in the boiler on numerous occasions.

This is my 2nd attempt at harness. Lots of handstitching including all of the keepers. It was a learning experience for sure. I made plenty of mistakes, but I'm sure the next one will turn out better.

I use a chunk of lead- works great. When it gets too dinged up, just smooth it out with a hammer.

Beautiful! Very neat and clean stitching

That's what Iv'e been doing on shaped pieces- no problem. It's straight strap work (of all things!), mainly trying to do a really pronounced bead. I wonder if I should be be molding the leather before hand?

I have been struggling doing a heavy raised bead or raised strap work(in general) on horse harness. I have tried a couple different methods- putting strap thru a raised creaser roller and putting a filler under it or skiving a strap on either edge and using a rounding block. My problem is, it doesn't seem to want to sew that well. One side is sews nice and where it's supposed to be and the other side wants to go wonky or the stitching line is off as if there's not enough leather. Is there a general rule of allowance on the top strap? Any tips or tricks? Thanks!

Beautiful work! I would love to learn how to braid.

I bought it to do harness work and was my first heavy stitcher. It hadn't been used in years, got parts for it and got it sewing again with the help from this forum. I had a heck of a time sewing very narrow but thick straps and decided to upgrade to a modern machine.... I still have the same problem,lol. The machine is now being used to repair draft harness down south. I just think they are very cool machines

I would buy another Landis 1 in a heartbeat- I really regret selling mine. I should have kept it around.

YinTx, thank you for the clarification- I understand now

You guys are awesome! Better advice could not be had. I sent her a quote last night, waiting on response. I based my price after looking at a medium price bridle that didn't have as many shaped pieces as mine (crown layer and noseband), nor the fancy rosettes, but did have stitched keepers... It's really not about the money- I'm kind of flattered? that someone liked it well enough to inquire and it gives me an excuse to make another bridle We'll see what happens

Thank you Big Sioux and JSLeather for the input. It's difficult for me to price it because I'm so new, etc but I think I have a better understanding now. I really don't care if I get the job or not- I'm going to tell her a high price and see where it goes(she's east coast , by the way) . I'm still going to hand stitch because I just cannot send out something that I personally wouldn't be happy with. Will update when and if I hear back from the "customer"

I don't understand" it'll be okay" in response to my question? I just asked if the holster was poorly made? I figured it was, but in a lot of things you still get what you pay for.

I started harness work with the sole purpose of it being just for my animals use, have never thought about going into it for anything other then a hobby. Anyway, I have a lady that that has inquired several times about making a driving bridle for her pony after she saw one of my bridles on social media. I've told her I'm just starting out and not really into selling, etc. She wants the exact bridle I made- how the heck do I even give her a price? I've looked at others for sale that are kind of similar but I'm not sure how to price it. I would have to hand sew the cheeks because I'm not happy with the way my machine sews them- it deflects on the back and I would not send something out that I wasn't happy with. I hand sew keepers and I've decided the rounds I will be hand sewing from now on. We are talking a ton of work. I have absolutely no idea and have no interest in giving my work away. Any thoughts? I have no clue how to price "custom" harness work and am beginning to think I'll just keep my "projects" to myself. Thanks!

I cannot see a picture, if there was one...was the holster poorly made?

Yes, they can- I should have clarified that in my first response. My husband and I moved one that way.

2 guys can load it on a trailer

I live in Northeastern Minnesota. I had a team of Belgians and a team of Belgian/ Percherons. We just played around with them- hauled hay from the neighbors, etc. I switched to Hackney ponies about 10 years ago.There is a pretty active Draft club up here.

Yes, I agree - they do have some goofy ideas... I was around old timers that had a " get it done mentality " , not pussy footing around the horse kind of attitude. I was at a sleigh rally years ago in Wisconsin talking to a judge and said the word "lines"... she said "lines " were to be used with an agricultural type hitch/ animals and reins were for carriage driving . Over the years I've gotten my fair share of odd looks at the words "lines" , when talking to non draft people. I just decided to stick to reins esp online

Agreed - everyone here is a wealth of information. I'm interested in making horse harness so I would have to say Dorantes and Freedman Harness have inspired me to take it up.

Thank you so much- exact info I was looking for. I kind of figured they were skived but wanted to err on the side of caution. Great info for the part about being put together backwards- the ones I have for an example are made that way.I grew up using " lines" with our drafts and was instantly corrected the second I started doing " carriage" driving.

I'm making driving reins using 15 oz "English" bridle leather. Front and hand parts are approx 80" each. My question is, can I safely skive each strap where they lap (flesh side). I'm paranoid about safety while driving and I've read that split leather isn't as strong, but I don't want them getting caught up in rein terrets if the joint is too thick- it appears like it should be as thick as the overall piece not thicker/bulkier. Any suggestions on making reins would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Harness Hardware out of Canada and Abbey England

I got a Landis 1 up and running- used it up until this past February when I upgraded.