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Stetson912

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Everything posted by Stetson912

  1. Stetson912
    Yes, that is the traditional method. And there is a bit of a learning curve. You have to be consistent with your angle of the awl, the awl needs to be really sharp, and handling all of that with the needles can be tricky. But like everything else, practice. I use a modified method. I like pricking irons to lay out the holes and then I use an awl to punch them. I still hold the awl and needles in my hands but the holes are pre marked with the correct angle of attack. I never was good enough to make a real nice line by eye. When transitioning from needle to awl you should be able to hold the needle between your index and middle fingers while using the awl and start that needle by sort of closing your fist or rotating your hand to start it. Some are even good enough to switch it back to their thumb and index. Ultimately you need to do what works for you. Tradition is great but it isn't the only way either. Also try stropping your awl. It will help. And make sure you don't have a burr. The awl should glide easily through the leather.
  2. Stetson912
    @Handstitched I've heard the same thing. Just haven't gotten around to trying it haha.
  3. Stetson912
    Serge volken preaches about a "non swivel knife" which is basically a swivel knife blade on a stick. But he says it works great and I'm inclined to believe him. Just goes to show that you don't always need these fancy special tools to get a job done. I think it looks pretty good!
  4. Stetson912
    Good reason haha
  5. Stetson912
    Looks real nice! Is there a reason the stitch like doesn't connect at the top by the name?
  6. Stetson912
    Thanks @rodneywt1180b. I am kinda jealous that I can't keep the knife haha
  7. Stetson912
    @bdpeters, I think so too, and some fringe. But I was told to make it plain so that's what I did. Brass tacks would look cool too.
  8. Stetson912
    Thanks mutt. Update: the sheath is more for presentation than actual hard use. So not having a welt doesn't bother my uncle at all haha. Phwew, that means I don't have to re-do it haha.
  9. Stetson912
    Oh, and I usually slick the fuzzies down. It's cheap leather and I don't like working with it but it's stiff and worked for this. In this case, I kind of like the fuzzy bits. I think it adds to the asthetic of a fur trapper or something using what they had around to make something to protect their tool. I did sand it a little bit to get the longer stringies off
  10. Stetson912
    @battlemunky that's a good point..pun intended. Hehe. I never thought about movement. I'll see if it'll be better with molding
  11. Stetson912
    @ScoobyNewbie, unfortunately I got lighter happy when melting the sinew. So it got on fire and turns black :/ the other parts are also where I melted the sinew but they didn't turn black. @Instinctive, I'm thinking of wet moulding it a bit so it fits better and kinda wraps around the handle and gaurd better. There is a lot of room down near the blade but it's a gamble. Thinking back I could have done a 2 part welt and still "bound" the seam. Guess we will see. Haha And if one is wondering about stitching. Just use one needle and do wipping in alternate directions if using sinew. That stuff gets stringy and you WILL mess it up piercing the thread haha.
  12. Stetson912
    Well, this is my fourth or fifth attempt at a sheath. Back and forth on styles and such... And 3 that didn't work. This is what I ended up with. The knifewas sent to me by my uncle and was forged from chainsaw blades. The modified gaurd and proportions didn't lend itself to traditional frontier styles so finding something that worked and was similar in style was challenging to me. Specs: 10-12 oz saddle skirting covered in deerskin and stitched by hand with artificial sinew. I was inspired by dhaverstick as far as stitching is concerned. Although his is better. I decided to semi bind the edges of the seam too. And there is no welt. My hopes are that the retention will keep the blade from the stitching as there's a bit of room down there. Anyways, let me know what you think and as always, I welcome critiques.
  13. Stetson912
    I like the sortimo style boxes for hardware. And I don't have many tools, the ones I use most fit in a cheap toolbox from Walmart. I was thinking about one of those rolling mechanics tool chest with drawers and such, a cheap one from harbor freight or something. I like those cigar boxes though. Good way to use up materials you have lYing around.
  14. Stetson912
    I love makers! Lol. If they are all from that pattern @RegisD,my guess is they are the same size and it's the depth of field/angle of the camera playing tricks on us.
  15. Stetson912
    I'm not sure, I haven't ordered from wickett and Craig directly. I use makers leather supply because I don't have a lot of money and I can order just a few feet instead of a whole side. But that said, I think shipping was 15-20 but I don't quite remember.
  16. Stetson912
    Very nice
  17. Stetson912
    Thanks @bikermutt07, always good to hear from ya.
  18. Stetson912
    Bahahaha @JLSleather that is a total oversight. Guess what I'll be fixing haha! I'm really kicking myself now because I looked at it for a solid 20 minutes trying to figure out what was missing! @battlemunky, I agree. The depth may be less but I like how even it is. And I'd rather have that than splotchy. I just run alcohol through it. I want to try a gravity feed brush because I think it would be easier changing between dyes and such. I like the siphon feed because it holds a good amount of dye and I can mix right in the jar. So maybe just more jars? I just run denatured alcohol through it or water for the mop n glo. Easy enough so far. I'm also using a cheap brush from harbor freight. So if it dies oh well haha. @ScoobyNewbie, are you referring to the stiffener pannel? That's a debate in it's own. It really just makes the front panel stiffer. It doesn't really reinforce the mouth so much. But I like how it looks too. So I put it there for both added rigidity and asthetics. I apparently just forgot to finish the stitching bahahahaha!
  19. Stetson912
    Contact cement should be plenty strong. Stitching wouldn't really help with cracking I don't think. Just conditioning the leather.
  20. Stetson912
    Oh, and thanks for the kind words.
  21. Stetson912
    They do appear that way. I thought the same thing. But it fits an 8 oz 1 1/2" strip through it so, that'll do lol and you could probably get 10-12 oz through them. I used an airbrush to dye it this time. And I'm never going back. It's the most even I've been able to achieve.
  22. Stetson912
    Just finished this one up for my uncle. 8 oz. Wicket and Craig, hand stitched, saddle tan and mop n glo finish. I experimented with this one and it came out pretty well. I wanted more of a 80/20 pancake instead of the regular 50/50 to avoid binding. Let me know what you all think. And as with most of my posts, critique is welcomed.
  23. Stetson912
    That's what I had in mind Haha
  24. Stetson912
    as pinker mentioned, a beader blade would be the easiest method. But there are a 1000 different ways to do it. I do like the idea of making a border tool though. I would think a round file and stainless steel bolt you could replicate the shape of a beader blade. Similar to Serge volken's "non"swivel knife just with a beader blade instead.
  25. Stetson912
    Do you have a way to mount it to a grinder or something? I'm thinking if you can spin it you can sand the edge. Probably wouldn't take 5-10 mins max. If not maybe a belt sander. Just have to be careful not to over sand in one spot.
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