Stetson912

The glycerine soap is a transparent orange bar that contains glycerine. The paste, to my knowledge, does not have glycerine. The glycerine soap resembles the neutragena bars you find in the stores. Might even be the same stuff idunno. I've used the paste and it's been effective. The trick is to put a drop or two of water in the tin and get a lather going with your finger. Then just dab some of that foam on the edge and work it in. Lately tho, as I've mentioned, I've omitted saddle soap and have been using g just water with a squirt of dawn dish soap and that's been working fine too. But, try them out and see what you like best. That's the only way you'll figure it out haha. Sanding I don't do much of. I use 80-120 grit and sand the edges so they are flush with each other. Then I bevel and slick. Slicking time varies as all leather is different. It isn't so much time as what to look for. When you burnish you want to feel the edge after, if it feels rough still keep going. Of it's smooth stop and move to the next section. I like to move around a piece completely before going to the next pass. That way, where I started the first pass is dry and you can start over again. You need multiple passes because when it dries some fibers don't stay put haha. As for how wet, the answer is not very. Heat and friction cause the edge to burnish. I take a dawber and dip it in my soap solution, and just run it briskly down the edge once or twice then get to it. Gluing: I haven't had an issue with glue honestly. I use contact cemented all the way to the edge. It may be a problem if it isn't 100% dry. Or if you get it on the edge. But typically sanding the edge flush solves that problem. You can stop just shy of the edge when you glue pieces together, that may solve your issue. Maybe just 1/16" is all it needs in from the edge. Check out don't gonzalez on YouTube, he uses glycerine soap and has a burnishing video.

Wellp, that was interesting. Thanks to everyone who commented to help the OP. We enjoy helping people who want to listen and learn. For rustic, I'm not sure what the issue is and I don't care, but this forum isn't the place for your political and religious rants. And for someone claiming to be a part of a "Christian backed culture" you aren't practicing your Christianity all that well. China is not atheistic either, budhissm taoism, and Confucianism are all practiced heavily there, as are I'm sure many other religions. I strongly advise that you take criticism with a grain of salt and apply it towards bettering yourself, lose your pride and arrogance(pride being one of the 7 deadly sins btw... FOR SHAME!), and the sooner you accept that you don't know as much as you think you do you'll realize it's easier to learn new things. That goes for life not just leatherwork. also, you'll find that on this form; with the former suggestions applied to your character, that the real skilled Craftsman who know a thing or two will be willing to help. Otherwise your list of resources will dwindle to null. @samNZJP, there are different techniques for edging and I'm in no place to say what's best or not, it's all relative to what leather you're using and what works for you personally. If you use paint you will need to sand inbetween layers and at the end wax it. Some use heat too, which is effective. Burnishing: Bob parks method is steadfast. But play around and find what works for you. I like to use water with a bit of dawn soap in it. Doesn't take much. Daub it on the edge and rub with a wood slicker. Then another coat of water and burnish again with canvass. Then I dye the edge if I want too. And another coat of water and burnish with canvass. Repeat with canvass as much as you want. To seal, rub some beeswax on the edge and rub it in with canvass or wood slicker. OR, use an acrylic sealer like resolene or... Mop n glo! Vioala! Hope that helps some

I'd love to learn about the laser. Especially if it works well and is cheap. As I am a poor white boy haha!

Do you mean the stitch lines of the crease lines on the pockets? Stitch lines, if done by hand, would be marked out using wing dividers. If by machine, usually an edge guide would be used that keeps the material a certain distance from the edge. And practice, lots and lots of it haha. The creases are done with a creaser. Some are set widths and are electric and heat up, others are a set size and are heated over an alcohol flame, and a third adjustable type that is used in the same fashion is also heated over alcohol flame. Once hot, the tool is run over the edge of the leather leaving a nice crease in it. The straightness of both stitching and crease lines depends 100% on the straightness of the cut edge of the leather nearest the line. Also, the use of straight edges is a good idea.

Well, leather will stretch to a degree. However certain parts of the hide and tannages will be more susceptible to it. I'd recommend a good latigo or bridle, even straight veg tan that's a little thicker. You can also line the strap, making it a 2 play strap, or ditch the leather strap all together and use thick canvass or nylon webbing.

The stitching just takes practice. I can't tell if it was machine stitched or hand stitched. But both would just take practice, a machine could utilise an edge guide however. The edges are edge painted with multiple coats then polished probably with beeswax and hot iron. Some people use an acrylic sealer instead like resolene.

YO! DAT IS ON FLEEK BRAH! Hahaha

Looks a lot better. Tooling looks cleaner and smoother.all I see is a few spots where there should be backgrounding in my opinion. Just below the tip on the big scroll at the top and below the scroll in the bottom left. But I'm really not picking haha. I couldn't do any better lol

Tan kote is weird. I've never had lick with it either. I used to use supersheen and that worked ok. Bit resolene worked better for me. Just took a long time to dry. The mop n glo resembles the resolene bit is a little thinner and has a lemon scent! Haha I couldn't find a d don't know if there's an unscented version

Thanks man, it worked surprisingly well. Especially out of the airbrush. Cut it 50/50 with water (it'll spray just fine full strength too) and I used maybe a half a siphon bottle thingy worth of it. So not much at all. My favorite part is not having to wait 12+ hours for it to dry haha.

Wellp, I was 50/50 on the whole mop and glo as a finish/resist... But darnit if it doesn't work great haha. I recently invested in a cheap harbor freight airbrush kit and decided last night to try it out to put the resist on this photo album cover. Not only did it work like a dream, but dried super fast. I was able to antique it 30 mins later! Crazy. Anywho, let me know what y'all think. before antique After antique

Clean as usual. Very nice. Where did you get that stitching pony! I need a better one. I have the tandy one and it works ok, but has a stupid threaded barrel that goes through it and is too high, I can't fit certain things in it.

I just looked breifly. I don't know anything about them or what not. You can find oil tanned hides many places. But it seems they may specialize in a product designed specifically for marine use. Hope you get what you need!

This is awesome. I thought you meant motorcycle trikem this I think is cooler. Good looking work on the seats and bag. And that whip is a quirky touch. That's probably my favorite part. I can see little biker kids peddlin down the street haha. Just needs a little two stroke hehe!

What leather are you using? I found this site that may help. I'm not so familiar with marine applications for leather but oil tanned leather I believe would do the trick. https://shipcanvas.com/collections/leather

Well aint i all silly with my airbrush stencils and paint brushes over here hahaha! Thanks for sharing the video. Sometimes Ithinga are simpler than we imagine haha.

Nice

Welcome, easy to go bankrupt on that site by the way, I advise caution hehehe

Well it isn't cheap, but fine leather working offers a overstitch wheel set that comes with 7 9 10 and 12 tpi wheels. The 12 tpi wheel would be just over 2 mm apart.. that's the finest I have seen. http://www.fineleatherworking.com/leather-tools/pricking-wheel-set Fine leather working had listed individual wheels. But says it's not available right now. You could contact them and ask when or how you can get them as well.

If you are trying to resist dye I'm afraid resolene won't help. Like you mentioned, the latex or liquid frisket (spelling?) Is what you'll have to use for that. Antique is usually a gel or paste and is resisted by resolene, dye not so much haha.

If you ever find it, their Jade color is nice. Looks good

Haha laser envy, am I the only one that thought of Spaceballs reading this thread? "I see your Schwartz is as big as mine" hehe Anyway, it's an awesome piece, good work

It's real easy to want to rush antiquing too. I always want to get it done so I can see what it looks like, and it's gotten me into a few ruined projects haha. 8-12 hours drying time for the resolene and antique is sufficient. overnight like Gary said is best time to do it because you will make it your stopping point for the day for that project and be less tempted to ruin it with impatience haha!

You sure can. That's what I do. The trick with resolene is to let it thouroughly dry before antiquing. And it may take 2 or 3 coats d pending on your application method. I thin mine 50/50 with water to avoid streaks and such. So it takes 3 coats for me. Then antique like usual and once that is dry, add a few more coats of resolene.

I use the john James 002 and .8 mm thread. It's s great combo. I like the .6 for smaller things so I go down a size in needles. That's the beauty of leather craft, everyone had their own way of doing things and that makes them different than other people. 2000 grit wet/dry paper will polish your awl fine. But it'll only polish. If you need to sharpen it you'll need a stone or coarser papers lol