Stetson912

Wow! How cool is that! I've never known of such a thing. Very cool!

Hey Bob. Try here. maybe something to figure out what you need. I know tandy sells one and had dies for it (dies for setting snaps) and maybe you could lay a Chuck of wood or something on top of the stamp while pressing your makers mark. I didn't look that closely at it

Does it have to do with embossing or splitting? I don't know what it is but I want to know haha

That's a cool effect.I can't really say how it was done. But it looks like a brush was used

Try this, on Google's search engine put in Search site:leatherworker.net wood grain dye And see what comes up. They do make little brusses/rollers with wood grain on them if that interests you... Otherwise I would think a lightly loaded bristle brush and light strokes would work. Maybe after a base coat and resist of some sort like resolene or mop n glo. But if you really want to get people thinking, you could use an airbrush with a... Ahem... Wood grain stencil... Haha. That's almost cheating it's so easy hahaha!

Yup, same exact process. I was just trying to help Scooby out haha. I'd like to see a sample of your stitching Gary! I have lusted after those chisels. Lots of good questions. So first, the reason I suggest marking the stitches then using an awl to make the hole is because the hole that a diamond stitching chisel makes is huge. Far bigger than necessary. The awl will make a smaller hole that will grip the thread a bit better (as Gary mentioned) this is where the chrimson hide chisels are superior, the teeth taper (much like an awl) instead of being the same width all the way down the tooth. Grant it, stitching chisels are meant for making holes all the wy through the leather and pricking irons merely mark the holes. However, both give you an index for your awl, that is they show the angle the awl blade needs to be at when you make the hole. Actually making the hole is trickier than you would think. You have to keep the blade perpendicular to the leather and push straight throughwhile supporting the leather on the back with your fingers being careful not to stab them. Any sight angular mishap will make the hole on the back come out in the wrong location. And it is absolutely imperitive your awl is sharp and polished. You should never have to force an awl through leather with a lot of effort. Plus, it's dangerous! As for being too close to the edge, you should get some wing dividers if you don't have some already. Mark a light line 1/8" to 3/16" from the edge. This is where you want the tips of the teeth of your chisel or iron to lie. This is a decent distance for most things in my opinion. It is important not to rush anything when you start learning to control the tools and stitch properly. Speed comes later with practice. I didn't stitch that section because I started from the top corners when putting the interior and exterior together. One side at a time. It's a matter of choice really, it doesn't effect function at all. You could stitch all the way around if you like. If the wallet sits open on the table it's possible the interior is too long or the exterior too short. The exterior should be about 1/2" longer than the interior. That allows the wallet to close properly. Finally, needles. John James harness needles are great. I use the size 004 and 002 because different thread sizes. This gide comes from Rocky mountain leather supply. Size 4 (004)- Smallest Needles (length 48 mm/Outer diameter 0.9 mm ) Lin Cable - Pairs with 532, 632, 832 Tiger Thread - Pairs with 0.6mm Size 2 (002)- (Length 54 mm/Outer diameter 1.0 mm) Lin Cable: Pairs with 332 & 432 Tiger Thread: Pairs with 0.8mm Size 0 (1/0) - (Length 57 mm/Outer diameter 1.1 mm) Lin Cable: Pairs with 332 Tiger Thread: Pairs with 1.0 mm Size 00 (also known as 2/0) - (Length 57 mm/outer diameter 1.3 mm) Pairs with thread 1.0mm to 1.2mm Size 000 (3/0) - Largest Needles (Length 62 mm/Outer diameter 1.6 mm ) Pairs with thread 1.2mm I hope this clears things up for you scoobs. Sorry it's so long.

Nice, that'll work. I don't think the dye job looks bad. What dye and finish are you using?

You don't need real expensive tools to get a good stitch. They are nice to have and they do work better due to quality, but they aren't necessary. I'll post a picture of a wallet I finished recently. All you really need is a way to mark your holes and a way to make them. An awl is necessary for making the hole, and a pricking irons or even stitching chisel can be used to mark the holes. In the following picture I used cheap tabdy stitching chisels(I'm sure sewa ect would be fine too) to mark my holes (NOT punch all the way through) then my awl to make the holes.

Awesome idea thanks!

Wow, so 8+ hours of content! Gotta have it haha! Good point on tooling, I tend to draw too small for my tools

Or untill you have a project that the aids don't fit :/ I'm pinching pennies for those classes by Mr Nantz. How long are the videos Mike? The usual hour or so?

Cool! I never seen one before lol

IThanks Gary, I didn't trim the edges at all. Just a quick sand to even them up. I agree ith the name. That's the problem with daubers haha, they take more coats and end up making everything darker lol

I thought about it but decided not to. I probably will on the next one.

Have you seen Ian Atkinson on YouTube? He makes a few sheaths start to finish on there.maybe worth a watch

Oh, and learn leather has an 8 video series taught by Britt Nantz if that's more your cup of tea. I haven't seen/pirchased them so I can't say how "good"they are off hand. Bit I have used learn leather and have been pleased with the format and information provided by experts in leather craft and I know Britt Nantz is a very well respected leather crafter. Keep in mind too, it's a more expensive route to go, but I'm sure the information is great.

Well, I'll tell you from experience it isn't easy and takes practice. BUT, there are a few publications. First, Bob park (our resitent hidepounder on here) has a book called "creating Western floral design" all I can say is get it. It's awesome. Second, Don gonzalez has an ebook on his website about the topic. It goes into good detail on the subject. This too is worth the money... And there a supplementary one on belts... Here you go https://dgsaddlery.com/product-category/ebooks-available/ Lastly, but not leastly... Pete gorrell has a book also. "Floral pattern drawing for the artistically impaired." It is also good bit somewhat different from the others. Bob and Dons books resemble the more aheridan style where Pete's book is more traditional. Bit, who is to say you ain't can mix em and match em right? I'm sure there are other resources, but these seemed to help me a bit... Now if I could just help myself haha

Still did a killer job though. Just a thought, I could see a red hourglass on that spider btw haha

Hey guys, just finished this up. And I'm actually pleased with it. Few firsts on this one. It's a 6 card wallet with two hidden pockets. 4/5 oz wickett Craig exterior and 2/3 oz interior all lined with some pigskin I had layin around. I used fenice edge paint which is a first, and antiqued the carving with acrylic paint(also a first). Feibings Saddle tan and resolene to finish As usual, critiques welcome.

Chrimson hide makes a great product. O wish I had some. But then again, I have switched to pricking irons and an awl... For some crazy reason haha.

Very cool. But you will need a welt. All a welt is is a layer of leather in the shape of the sheath/blade, that is wide and thick enough to protect the stitching. Maybe this will help. That strip goes between the layers of the sheath and is stitched through like normal. But it adds thickness so the blade edge runs along the welt instead of cutting your stitches.

Fantastic description!

That's a good idea. I may have to ask that lol

Also, I've only made open holsters, what's the benefit to a closed toe?