Stetson912

I think you answered your own question. Forward can't is the only possible solution that I can visualize sith that style holster. The only other way would be to do a western style with a dropped belt loop. You can raise the back loop a bit without too much trouble, it's the one under the grip that can't really move higher. Otherwise you won't be able to ...ahem... Get a grip haha. Even with a pancake, you'll have the same issue. Maybe there is a way and I just don't knows it.

@Double Daddy thanks! AutoCAD is great for people who can get it ect. I wouldn't know what to do with it haha. I'm sure AutoCAD would be more efficient

Ahh dern! I thought I caught all my misspellings oh well, can't win them all. Offset is what I was calling it too, but inkscape calls it 'outset' and 'inset'. I don't have ai or ps so I don't really know if it works with those file types but I don't know why it wouldn't. The standard save type is svg if.that means anything haha. There is a fill and stroke menu where you can adjust the, well, stroke and fill. Haha. You can make them as wide or skinny as you want, and there are different line patterns. I like the guides They help me out. I didn't use them, but the grids are really nice I. Inkscape too. You can have isometric and rectangular grids set to whatever dimensions you like. The isometric let's you set angles too (sure you knew that). "Flesh out" wasn't meant to confuse but I see how it could to a holster maker. Makes me wonder why I didn't think about it haha! And I don't know why the PDF was so dern big. 2.8 mb I think it was. I used word to the it up and saved it as a PDF. Even the pattern itself is 96 kb. Is there better program for making the PDF? Thanks for the input, I'm glad it wasn't completely useless haha! I'm even more happy that my pattern almost exactly matched yours when I put them one over the other. Different shapes and mine is a little taller and vertical but hey, it worked haha!

in the how to section i made a little crude walk through of my inkscape adventure in making a 50/50 pancake for a 5" 1911 if you care to take a gander.

Hi everyone. There was a question by a fellow member asking about vector imaging for patterns. @JLSleather was the inspiration for me wanting to make up this little "tutorial" or rather an example of what may be achieved fairly simply with Inkscape. It is also JLS' holster patterning methods that i will be using. For those who don't know, Inkscape is a free vector drawing software that is similar to adobe illustrator or Corel Draw. I'm sure these programs are far more advanced than I care to get involved with. I don't need anything that will recreate the Sistine Chapel, just something utilitarian enough for me to make up some patterns when I need to. I like Inkscape because it is just that and it gets the job done. Especially for poor....or cheap... guys like me who can't draw a straight line given a ruler... ok maybe not that bad but you get my point. So, please find attached, hopefully, two PDF files. One is just the holster pattern I created during the tutorial, the second is the "tutorial" or walk through itself. My goal is to try and help people so if there are any questions I'll do my best to answer them. Please don't take this as an in depth tutorial on how inkscape operates or how to use any of the functions there in. That type of tutorial is far outside my grasp. For getting the hang of things i recommend youtube. I mentioned a source in the tutorial for your reference. Thanks again to JLS leather for the inspiration! Keep on keeping on Leatherheads! P.S i hope the uploads work, and i have to use my google drive to share the tutorial as its too large... anyone know a better way? let me know. cool THANKS YALLS!!! tutorial shareable link https://drive.google.com/file/d/11_wYwKuIVkPNP4M6ZC7q9JJIL_2S6QI7/view?usp=sharing inkscape1911pattern.pdf

I've antiqued with acrylic paint. But that requires a resist finish first. But it worked ok

Makes sense to me. Trial runs are always good.

Wow that's cool. I'm curious though, would a block dye work? Like a dry/minimally loaded rag stuck to a chunk of wood. And just run it down the triweave? Even almost dry I'm scared I'd mess it up with a brush haha

Interesting. Never woulda thunk it haha. Funny how the simlest things tend to work so well.

Haha, for me it's because the wallet curves and doesn't fit in my stitching pony all that well. You just have to stick it out and keep going haha.

Yes it can be a pain on the second part haha

I do one side at a time. Sometimes I stitch the middle gap sometimes I don't. The middle gap usually has a half circle cut out on the part with the cards so stitching g would only be on the exterior of the wallet. 1. Like up the interior and exterior on one side of the wallet. Glue or use double stick tape to hold it in place. Once that's dry / ready to go stitch from the top corner down and around to the center "gap" portion. 2. Stop here at the gap if you want. If not stitch just to the other side of the gap just before the interior shoulr start again. 3. Repeat step one for the other side. If you happened to stitch the gap straight through, you will be starting your stitching in the bottom around to the top corner. However, you can stop and tie off the stitching at the gap, then start at the top corner and around back to where you tied off the stitching and connect the stitched sections there and "hide" your backstitch at the bottom of the wallet. That's what I recommend. It is easier,slightly , to skip the middle section.

Noope. Gum trag and I think tokanole are used for burnishing instead of water and soap like a lot of people do. Resolene is an acrylic based finish/sealant. Angelus has an acrylic finish too that's similar, and I believe tan kote is acrylic based too. Mop n glo (as I'm a recent convert) is also an acrylic based sealer.

I'll see what I can come up with for you. You can import images into inkscape and draw over them, by using the import function or drag and drop. You can even "trace bitmap" which in theory gives you a vector image of the imported picture. Mine seems to not work for I ain't can use it right. And has a scale you can set to whatever units you want, down to pixels even haha. I'll try and make one up for a 1911. As that's the only gun I have that matches your patterns.

It's a bit of a misnomer. The pigments in the pro (oil) dye are oil based pigments or so I've been told. It is still a spirit based dye. The other dyes have pigments that may/ are not be oil based. Feibings is great. Angelus is another good brand. Both will do well. But I recommend diluting the Angelus as it is very pigment heavy. They even make a "clear" dye that is meant for just that. Sealing your edges: resolene is good. Dilute 50/50 with water and apply. I imagine tan kote would work too. Wyosheen probably would work also. And I've used plain ole beeswax and buffed it in real good. The acrylic based sealers like resolene and Angelus acrylic finish leave a shinier edge whereas beeswax tends to be more flat. I'm.not familiar with tokanole so I can't attest to that.

Yup, binder clips of varying sizes. Clothes pins are good and cheap too. Of you need more, squeeze clamps come in several sizes. There a multi pack Walmart has. They apply a good deal of pressure. I like the poscicle stick idea. I always used scrap leather but sticks would be more effective.

@JLSleather I'm coming into this late so forgive me if you've heard already, bit there is an open source free program called inkscape. It is similar to Adobe illustrator. It's a vector graphics software. You can scan in your tracing of your gun mold, and there are both rectangular and isometric grids that are 100% customizeable. I'm still getting the hang of it but I've made some some patterns thus far. Hope this helps. and One thing is for sure, it won't break the bank hahaha! You can say, it pays for itself when someone downloads one of your patterns from your site hahaha!

Yup. I agree with plink. If you're worried about the holster not fitting through the loops just make a loop that attaches to the skirt. It'll look and function almost the same. And is easier. I like Chicago screws too for holding them down. That way you aren't wasting snaps if you get the strap wrong or want to change it later. Good Info and advice plinkercases!

Hey @chrisash, you really can use any leather you like for a rolled edge. It comes down to your skiving skills and thickness of leather. Personally, anything above say, 4-5 oz would be better bound or burnished. So I wouldn't go heavier than that. 2-3 oz would probably not need skived if it folds easy enough. So, I recommend skiving a 4-5 oz down and folding it over for your rolled edge on the back, and using 2-3 oz for the innards. Also, Ian Atkinson has a YouTube channel and shows how to do a rolled edge if you are so inclined. As to where to get a few feet, I can't help you much. I'm not familiar with vendors in your location. I know here in the states Maker's Leather Supply out of Texas sells wickett and Craig by the foot. But, I do not know if they ship internationally, nor do I think it would be worth it. Oh, search for remnant bags at your usual vendor too. Usually off cuts but sometimes bigger pieces are available.

Ah I see, lighting playing tricks again haha

@Sheilajeanne, there are 3 ways that I know of to finish the edges. First would be binding, or folding over. My eyes can't really tell from the photos but I don't think this is the case. I don't see stitching on the pockets so unless it was glue only he used a different method. Second, if it's veg tan, it would/could be burnished and sealed. And I'm unfamiliar but possibly tokanole of gum trag was used. Third, edge paint. This seems most likely to me (although only the creator really knows. As my eyes again, can't tell) a lot of sanding between coats. That's my speculation for ya. I think they were burnished, as the edges color seem to match.

The instructions by jls are straight forward and simple. I'm using it right now matter of fact. For a bersa firestorm. So thanks to JLS!

Looks good. Two things, now I'm really not picking here, it looks like you missed a few stitches (I know you didn't and that the function is just fine without them) I'd recommend in this case to stitch all the way around the wallet. Second, the beveling looks a little choppy in places. I ain't saying I can do any better tho haha! A modeling spoon would clean that up pretty quick though. All in all tho, good and unique looking wallet. Good work!

There ya go. Not bad at all. And Matt makes a good point too.

That's supposed to say Don Gonzalez lol