RhodesAveDesigns

I don't know how long you've been looking, but my council is, "Patience", regarding finding a "good deal" (I know, not really what you want to hear). Asking the gods of Craigslist to provide a good deal less than 1/2 hrs drive may be asking a bit much. It took me about a month looking somewhat locally, and a few more weeks expanding my Craigslist range, to find anything that was actually a walking foot machine, and they all required a bit of driving. I drive a 4door sedan, w/o easy access to a larger vehicle, and could haul home the entire machine/table setup by dismantling it (w/ my random collection of scavenged/inherited tools). Be aware that a "good deal" usually takes some mechanical work on your part, so if you need to be up and working quickly, you may want to change your strategy a bit. Good luck!

That is super cool! I 2nd Rockoboy in asking about sizing, or if you made it to fit yourself, or followed some sort of pattern? Hats and head-covers can be tricky to size, since everyone has a different circumference and depth to their crown. . - Elizabeth

Here's my .02 (from someone with a card wrapped in "extra" pieces of wasted/shredded thread). The #1, #2, and #3 needles are all exactly the same; JJ and some resellers have included explanations for "why" (which are somewhat convoluted, and have something to do with different # systems and size expectations in different areas). In my experience, trying to use a needle size which is too small for your thread will shred your thread at the eye, if you can actually thread the needle at all. A smaller needle may be "easier" to sew your leather, but having to stop constantly to "fix" your thread (and losing some of your thread length) will not help speed up/ even out your stitching process. While Tiger thread is pretty flat, this doesn't necessarily mean it will fit through all needle eyes, and 1mm will not work well in a #4 needle (and you may break the needle at the eye). As others have pointed out, you should utilize an approriately-sized awl (or a different chisel size or type), rather than try to compensate with your thread/needle combination. Unfortunately, until you own nearly "everything" available, this may mean needing to pause your project until you have a better combination of supplies. - Elizabeth

Maybe create a new post, instead of using someone else's established sales post?

Leathercrafttools charges a separate shipping fee, which they state is calculated based on the weight of goods, etc. Goodsjapan has "free" shipping on most of their products. As you have already seen, there is never such a thing as "free" shipping, there is always a cost involved, somewhere. The trick, as a customer, is to create the same cart, with the same products, from each supplier, then you can calculate the actual cost if shipping from leathercrafttools, vs. the total if your cart with goodsjapan. You will also want to compare the stated shipping times on different options. My understanding from the many previous posts on this forum of goods purchased from both of these sellers is that they are both selling many if the same products, ie leathercrafttools is not selling counterfeit or unauthorized versions of products under the same name. The main reason I haven't purchased from either site is that there can be a lengthy wait time (generally 4-6 weeks) before your shipment arrives, unless you pay a good deal for expedited shipping. - Elizabeth

You are my new 3rd-best-friend (I promise this is a compliment, lol, after my dog, and my human best friend). Having read- and re-read your previous machine post, together with several members' ongoing, unequivocal recommendation of the dial-type Servos, that was the route I was leaning toward; this post just nudged me over the edge. As I will have 2 machines, I will start with the basic Servo, and probably order a second, rather than opt for an iffy "upgrade" at 2+ times the $$$ (there's the promise of a third vintage machine, I swear this is crazy, but I won't "look a gift horse in the mouth", not after turning up little to nothing at lower price points for months). Thankfully, my brother in law sells/creates/installs custom production line set-up, so there is the promise of pulley systems of any size/ configuration. You are right in that the Chinese systems could definitely be more readily available, at far better prices. Definitely plan to work on my own machines, more so than I already am. I am big on "do-it-yourself", grew up with the example if you don't know how to do something, you research/read/learn, and DO IT. Like I said, one bad experience with someone who charged for messing my machine up worse = never again (turned out was a design issue, and nothing I could have done, and had tried, helped). The amount if information offered by this site is incredible; once I am an "adult" again, not facing endless student expenses, I'll be able to give back in turn (I hope). Knowing there is assistance if I get stuck is enormously helpful. I'll post updates as they occur. THANK YOU, again. - Elizabeth

Dwight- I copied the auction title, then pasted it into the eBay app (or just use the classic site), and got several hits, all shipping to the US for a grand total of $3.53. Thank you for posting the link; this time, the seller's title was purely descriptive, unlike some eBay listings. Now, to wait 4-6 weeks....

eBay link? Please? I have a template used for engineering purposes, and a coupe french curve sets, but I like the possibility offered by this template in terms of pattern placement. And I know from past experience that the descriptive titles used by Chinese eBay sellers are seldom what I "think" they should be.

That you are taking the time to work with your daughter on leather projects is truly heartwarming. I always love hearing about parents encouraging their kids to make things, let alone teaching and learning with them, it fosters creativity as well as problem solving abilities, all necessary skills. Congratulations!

Not as low as you might think, lol. Especially given what I've seen on Craigslist lately, while searching for sewing machines. After all the talk about Shopsmith tool systems the other day, well, let's just say I also really need a larger, hatchback vehicle ($125 w/ 4 attachments?!?!). The possibility of burnishers, tool handles, part modifications, and custom crochet hooks, is awfully tempting, I already have the chisels... maybe next spring. The God of second-hand/ thrift store items tends to pull in my favor, if I put in the work/ really need something. Sooner or later. Given the recent sewing machine acquisitions, I can't be too greedy. Especially since I'm still elbow deep in the de-gunking and greasing phase. And considering whether I really should re-paint, and, if so, classic black, or a cool racing green. In the meantime, I'll keep scavenge-ing pieces and parts.

I do think it's often either jealousy or a lack of understanding behind a lot of labels; I've learned to accept the "cheap skate" moniker with pride, insofar as it means I am careful with my spending, and tend not to have too many regrets about my purchases (and have $$$ I wouldn't otherwise have remaining). Your ingenuity is a skill, just as much as your leatherwork. I didn't have a lot as a child, and had to "make-do" a lot of the time in terms of art and hobby supplies. Sometimes I probably take it too far (this area is known for being frugal; many in West Michigan are of Dutch descent, and being "Dutch" is considered a put-down). I know tonight there were a couple coupons ($20 and $25) for websites where I just placed orders yesterday and earlier this morning, and I'm trying not to get overly upset about it (in the scheme of things, on a student budget, given that textbooks now easily run $300-400 apiece, and textbook rental $$ can vary from hour to hour). Anyway, the point is that you should be proud (and now I really need a lathe). I have seen the other, recent, thread with the burnishing unit, and filed that away, as well, as I like to have options. Having a "name" on your tools makes for pretty Instagram pictures, but it doesn't necessarily get the job done any better. - Elizabeth

Jeff- Thank you so much for taking the time to share your setup information. You've given me a lot to consider/ponder; knowing your setup, it helps in the decision process. The posts on the Servo motors have been very confusing, with many, many people having extremely negative opinions, and writing about poor experiences, with the new, Chinese-made servos, yet others whole-heartedly advise purchasing them. Figuring out the reasons pro/con is making my head explode, especially since choosing a more expensive model doesn't necessarily mean it will prove to be any "better"; your situation is an excellent example of this situation. The CSM 3000 motor that you dislike should be "better"/ new and improved, yet it's not allowing you to sew properly. Many don't seem to like the digital controllers, either, but I'm not really seeing any models with increased power (oomph) which include the dial format; and the alternative manufacturers/models from Japan/Germany are extremely expensive and have limited models in the $300-500 range (and ordering from overseas seems like it could be a disaster, in terms of waiting for shipping, and a lack of service if/when problems arise). I don't have a supplier, or a repair service for industrial machines, anywhere nearby (and in the past, didn't had the best luck with a local, "reputable", repair service and a domestic machine, it was as bad an experience as with a shady auto repair). Armed with this info, I look forward to getting to Bob's next week, after which I can get going (or tangle a lot of thread....). - Elizabeth

I love this! Many seem to believe they need "the best", i.e. most-expensive, or nearly-most-expensive, products available to do just about anything. While some products are outright awful, cheap, and useless, many things can be accomplished with some ingenuity. Quite frankly, I would make just about everything I use, if I could, just because I'm a control freak, prefer knowing where the components came from, and don't like to wait for anything, but that's just me .

Nope, I think you are in the same place as many people on this forum (and most "makers"). Given the global manufacturing and distribution markets, it is rate to find anything you make yourself to save money. The cost of supplies, on a small scale, let alone labor, is just too high. As cowboycolonel pointed out, though, you can produce much higher-quality items, to your exact specifications, than those currently readily available. In addition, yours will be one-of-a-kind, and not be made under duress, in poor conditions, with cut-rate materials. And congratulations on the stitching horse, it sounds wonderful. That's another thing on my "someday" list.... - Elizabeth

Hi, from another Midwestern noobie! I know nothing about carving, except what I like, but it looks like you are doing very well, already. The amount of knowledge and information on this site truly is amazing, and goes far in continuing the art of leathercraft. - Elizabeth

Thank you for the warm welcome. Rocky, I am afraid the clutch motors need to go, at least one of them, if I want to make any progress (aside from being noisy, and scaring my dog). The perfectionism is something I work on, as Type As don't tend to live quite as long as they might.... especially since the newest trend in teaching is "group projects". I haven't missed being part of a "group" all summer, and it was the main reason I had to take a few months "off" (to focus, remember how to breathe, and take stock of real-life, without others' constant nonsense). Jeff, thank you for your offer, and I look forward to seeing your machine setup. Knowing what combination is working for someone else would be very helpful. I was pretty content with moving my equipment into my living room, with a west-facing window, until I saw your shots, and now I'm wondering where I went wrong in life, lol. Your great room, and those windows/view, are on a whole different level (and your work is quite good, btw). cowboycolonel, I wouldn't feel bad about your space, as many I know must content themselves with their dining room table, between meals, etc. "It's not what you have, it's what you do with it". CowboyBob, I can't wait to see your showroom, and I need the "basics", in addition to the Servos. Seeing the machines in your showroom will give me a whole new level of wants/ needs, I am sure.

I have found something else to practice tomorrow. That video is so helpfull, and he is so well-versed it looks effortless. I can see a whole line of hopefully not-too-mashed rivets will be my after-dinner entertainment.

Thank you! I'm both excited and anxious, as picking up the Consew will be an adventure (I'm also planning on picking up a rescue dog during the trip, and may be able to visit Toledo Industrial in person). There are so many decisions to make, especially regarding the necessary Servo motors (I've read so very many forum threads and conflicting reviews, I think I'm more confused- manual or digital, brushless, dealer/ manufacturer?!?), plus the re-arrangement of my house, and classes begin anew in a couple weeks.... it'll all work out, eventually.

Greetings, all! My name is Elizabeth, and I'm a relatively new member, who skipped over this step a few months ago. I have been reading hundreds (thousands?) of forum posts, and analyzing the amazing member creations in the gallery. I'm a beginning leathercrafter, who has been honing my cutting, burnishing, and handstitching skills with totes, purses, journals, and card holders for a little while. I have a background in textiles, having embroidered and sewn fabric since elementary school, as well as working with yarn, crocheting, knitting, and weaving. In addition to making items, I hand-dye fabrics and yarn, for myself and for sale. I re-discovered leathercraft this last winter, in need of a new hobby as an outlet while I finish my business degree; as an adult full-time student, and a Type-A perfectionist, I needed something to focus my creative energies. Having tired of the horribly low-quality leather items readily available, and the ever- rising prices on the somewhat higher-quality "luxury" leather goods, I hoped to learn to make something in-between. I first checked out Valerie Michael's The Leatherworking Handbook over and over from the library when it was initially published, wishing and hoping for access to all the specialized equipment described inside; as you all know, all the obscure, specialized equipment I previously could only dream of is now just a few clicks away. I have known for months that I wanted an industrial sewing machine. A new machine seemed to be the answer, as very, very few used machines come up for sale on either Craigslist or eBay, anywhere nearby, and I don't own a large vehicle. Having read all the pinned posts, and taught Google to rank leatherworker.net/forum posts high in searches, I narrowed my options... then BANG! Two machines "fell" unceremoniously into my lap, one via Craigslist, and the other on eBay. Thankfully, I am somewhat mechanical, and I have relatives who are fairly well-versed in engineering and electronics. So, I am now the proud owner of a Singer 111w155, and the soon-to-be owner of a Consew 226. My understanding is they are the same basic machine; both are currently equipped with clutch motors, soon to be changed out (once I make a few decisions, sigh). I am in the process of cleaning up the Singer, as it was stored for quite some time, and is dirty and gunky. My living room is in the process of becoming studio space, with the addition of the giant tv/ chair-and-a-half, as it makes more sense to have the sewing machines/ cutting table/ weaving loom both spread out and more readily available (and because I can, ). Anyway, I thank you all for so readily sharing your knowledge/ expertise/ opinions. Without this forum, I don't think I would have dared take such a big plunge into this hobby- I would still be worrying about choosing my first side, let alone getting over making that first cut. - Elizabeth

Oops! I clicked on the topic because I couldn't figure out what it was you might be asking (as someone with enough experience and knowledge not to be using plated pot-metal "rivets"). I look forward to the forthcoming answers, as I haven't been able to find much helpful information, either- another leatherworking "grey area". - Elizabeth

From what I have read, it will handle only fairly thin leather. While the new machine is an upgrade of the last model, it is still meant mainly for less-dense materials; the "upgrade" will mean that, for some leathers, it will cut in one pass (rather than 2 or 3). If you are trying it on veg tan, I think it still will be 2 passes, minimum. These machines provide the user with a low-grade, home-model industrial machine. You must either buy company die sets, or use their very simple software; I know what I "want" from their software is something I don't think they will ever provide (complete control to program my own designs), so I still don't find the cost acceptable. For complicated cuts predetermined by a mass market die, using very thin leather, it may be ideal. - Elizabeth

I'm assuming so. I went to their website to "see" what's going on, and, as if now, while there is a "Special Offers" tab, it leads you in circles. Wouldn't make much sense for a non-Sedgewick's rep to give site-specific details. In addition, unfortunately, the sense is that as 'lot' jobs, they will be fairly high quantity, as in several/many hides, similar to HO minimums. So, unless it's a production setting, the scenario seems best suited for retail shops. Because even as "seconds", the $$$ would be considerable on 3/5/10/etc. hides. Oh, well.... - Elizabeth

Yin, I'd give you a hand, if you were closer, since your poor thumb needs a break (not literally, don't take that as a suggestion, all the wound holes are enough). It's a shame your strap lengths aren't 'measuring up, but sometimes it's the "artistic fix" that makes the project (and don't tell anyone later about those issues, and they will never know the difference). - Elizabeth

Bill, thanks for reading and clarifying the info in my post. The issues many members have in buying smaller amounts of Hermann Oak are confusing/ puzzling, as many seem to gave completely opposite results within days of each other, to the point that, without picking out one's own sides in person, making any 2nd party recommendation just seemed unwise. As for Horween, the OP wanted a general recommendation for some point in the future; most smaller shops get in Horween sides in select styles/colors, without consistent inventory. While this is completely understandable, it made giving numerous, specific, possible suppliers untenable. I have also heard the Tandy announcement; the idea that Tandy will be selling Sedgewick products seems suspect, at best, regarding both quality & price. Given the company's historic and ongoing sales practices, low grades sold at premium prices sounds about right, leading to a general misunderstanding of the true quality inherent in English bridle leather. Frankly, I was disappointed in Clayton's/Sedgewick for entering such a partnership, given their emphasis on quality and history, as well as their relative transparency regarding the materials and processes they employ, something their new partner does their best to dodge and obscure, imo. - Elizabeth

This is everything I have gleaned from this site, other's tales, and my own experience. 1) The "best" Hermann Oak is ordered directly from HO, as that's the only way to guarantee the highest quality, properly- graded HO. Tandy does NOT sell Hermann Oak, although they try to confuse customers with their nomenclature; many have purchased veg tan from Tandy they were happy with, but it almost always costs more than quality materials from WC, HO, or others. Purchasing smaller, real-world amounts of HO seems to have uneven results, and you can research many recent threads on this site about other's experiences. Wickett and Craig is very high quality, and can be purchased direct from the tannery, although they also have resellers. 2) I don't care for exotics/ the reasons behind them, so I won't even try. 3) True English Bridle is a British leather product, like Clayton's Sedgewick, and can be sourced direct in a huge quantity; they just posted something on here the other day about seconds being available soon to Americans. Moore Pearsall in Canada sources Clayton's products ( tannerywarehouse.com , although their website isn't terribly customer-oriented, but their employees are very knowledgeable). American- made "English" style bridle is tanned at HO, WC, and Thoroughbred Leather, among others, and can be purchased through the tanneries or via resellers. 4) Horween can be purchased directly from Tannery Row; it can be pricey, and you must plan ahead, as your order will take weeks/ months, but you will, again, be purchasing a top-quality product, in exactly the tannage/color you require. Horween can also be purchased from resellers and smaller shops, most notably Maverick, which usually deals with 2nd-quality sides, but in some tannages/colors receives over-runs and closeouts of better quality; the Buckleguy currently sells Horween by the cut piece. Individual sellers often pop up on this board selling excess product, scraps, and things they just want to clear out, in the Classified section; you have the power of the community keeping them above-board. Hopefully this helps someone, as questions like this come up all-to-often. - Elizabeth