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Pintodeluxe

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Everything posted by Pintodeluxe

  1. Pintodeluxe
    Yes, I thought the same thing and tried the Bronze Rustoleum Hammered color. It was close, but not a match. The Rosemary looks identical to the factory paint on this particular Juki.
  2. Pintodeluxe
    The pictures show how well the paint matches. The bed of the machine was repainted, and blended into the head area. The second picture shows the top cover, which was sandblasted and repainted. The area surrounding the cover is the stock color.
  3. Pintodeluxe
    I had a Juki Lu-562 that was in pretty good mechanical shape, but needed some paint touch-up. I experimented with several hammered spray paints, including special order products. In the end, the one that was a dead ringer for my lu-562 was an off the shelf Rust-Oleum color that I found at Home Depot. The color is Rust-Oleum "Rosemary" hammered finish. It is a dead ringer for the dirty gray paint that Juki used. There is a subtle hint of green as well. Hopefully this saves someone the guesswork in the future!
  4. Pintodeluxe
    That is a common problem. As I recall, my machine did that too. Your timing must be out 180 degrees. At any rate, look for the alignment arrows underneath and make sure they align when they're supposed to. Did you have the timing belt off to make the repair? If so, it's almost certainly a simple timing problem. Servo motors can be switched to run the wrong way, which can also cause backwards sewing, but I'm guessing that's not your particular problem.
  5. Pintodeluxe
    Game, I had the same problem on my Consew 226. It's not the same machine, but they have a surprising number of similarities. For me it was a missing spring and latch on the safety clutch. It had been taken off by the previous owner. The clutch can still re-engage fine, but you have to do it manually from underneath. The button on the sewing machine bed won't work. Attempting to change stitch length may pop the safety clutch until you get it locked back in and re-tightened as well.
  6. Pintodeluxe
    I have had a Consew 206rb1 and a couple Consew 226 machines. I prefer the 226 due to the top loading bobbin. They work well, and are easy to maintain. I usually look for a machine with a paddle style reverse lever. I never could get used to lifting the reverse lever up on the 206. If I needed a big bobbin machine I would shop for a Juki 563 or similar.
  7. Pintodeluxe
    Nice Machine. I had a 206RB-1 and it was built like a tank. I learned on a 226 with a paddle lever, and never could get used to the upward direction on the 206 reverse lever. It's amazing how many times I reached over without looking and tried to press that lever down!
  8. Pintodeluxe
    I have two Consew 226 machines and really quite like them. The top loading bobbin and large reverse lever makes for an elegant design. The G style bobbin is pretty small, and is sometimes a limiting factor for the upholstery work I do. Overall it's a great machine. I concur 138 thread is about max. 135x17 is just the needle system. If you buy leatherpoint needles they will be called 135x16 in various sizes. I use #18 for 92 thread or a #22 for 138 thread. I like Wizcrafts suggestion to use a #23 needle with 138 thread, I keep meaning to try that. As far as the motor, I have had both 1725 rpm and 3450 rpm clutch motors and they're both too fast for me. I just swapped them for an inexpensive servo motor. Good luck.
  9. Pintodeluxe
    I always wore those skuffs on the left boot with pride back when I rode. Cool idea though.
  10. Pintodeluxe
    This is an older post, but an interesting topic. I did find 1-5/8" wide T-molding at tmolding.com Colors available are white or black. You have to re-rout a centered slot in the table, but that's easy to do if you have a router. It requires a .080" slot cutter, which is available from Whiteside machine and Amazon etc. The benefit is that the edging is only 85 cents per foot, with a 5 foot minimum order. It might not help you if you only plan on restoring one table, but if you do a couple of projects it quickly pays for itself. I find a need for t-molding wrapped craft tables and shop fixtures, so for me it was easy to justify a specialty router bit ($10 for the arbor, and $20 for the .080" slot cutter).
  11. Pintodeluxe
    I have the same machine, and I'm surprised it's giving you this issue. Mine is really forgiving in terms of when you press the reverse lever. I pay no attention to needle position when reversing. I know I should, and I do agree with Northmount's advise. For me it just hasn't mattered. I would try another needle / thread combination to see if the problem goes away. My 226 loves #92 thread with a 18 or 20 size needle. Cheers and good luck!
  12. Pintodeluxe
    Glad you got it sorted. My 226 likes 92 thread with a #20 needle. It will sew various other combinations up to 138 thread, but it will sew 92 thread with a #18 or #20 needle without any fuss at all.
  13. Pintodeluxe
    The stitch length adjustment on my 226 is probably the only thing I don't like about it. Sort of a clunky adjustment mechanism compared to more modern machines with knobs to change stitch length. Luckily, I just leave it at or near max for the work I do. Otherwise the 226 is an elegant and capable machine.
  14. Pintodeluxe
    Pull the tension discs off the upper tension mechanism and check them for wear. That can cause irregular tension issues. How does it sew with #92 thread and the same needle?
  15. Pintodeluxe
    Heck, those belts are available at every corner hardware store. Nice score.
  16. Pintodeluxe
    I just wanted to circle back to this post. It turned out to be grooves worn in the tension discs. I swapped tension discs from another machine, and that fixed the problem right away. That proved to me that the worn discs were the source of the problem, so I ordered a nice replacement tension unit, made in Japan. It's working normally now. Thanks to all who chimed in, it's much appreciated.
  17. Pintodeluxe
    I debated on rigging up a left foot reverse for my Consew 226. An upholstery instructor I studied with had one rigged up on his machine. A couple cloud block bearings and a metal pipe formed the main assembly, while a pair of clamp-on levers and chains complete the setup. Makes a convenient place to store welting material too. I'm sure they have commercially available setups, but I already have the cast iron foot pedal, so I should make a run to the hardware store. Nice creative solution to your conundrum.
  18. Pintodeluxe
    Just noticed you're in Vancouver, I'm in Camas. Small world. I'm sure you'll get it fixed up with the expert advise of Wiz and others. You had asked me on another forum where I found Schmetz special order needles, and I think it was just direct from the company at Schmetzneedles.com Good luck with it.
  19. Pintodeluxe
    You might try Schmetz needles. They have 135x16 needles in size 22 in a myriad of tip styles. They might have the type you're after. I had to special order mine.
  20. Pintodeluxe
    I had a similar issue with a 206RB-1 a week or two ago. My bobbin thread was unusually hard to pull, and didn't respond to tension adjustments. I replaced the bobbin, and adjusted it for light tension, and it solved the problem. How does the bobbin tension feel? Is it tight?
  21. Pintodeluxe
    I bought off eBay, and it was an unbranded part from China. The rod that accepts the tension nut was only threaded about half way, so the spring couldn't develop enough tension. I have been looking 10 pages deep on Google searches with no luck yet.
  22. Pintodeluxe
    I bought a replacement for the tension assembly on my Consew 226. When it arrived, I realized it was very poor quality, and the spring tension was insufficient to sew. I also noticed that the tension discs were offset from the controller spring assembly. On the original, these two parts are nearly in the same plane. On the replacement, the tension discs stick out further from the machine. At any rate, I am looking for a high quality tension assembly for my 226. Ideally it would be made in Japan with comparable quality to the original Seiko part. I like the kind with the double-wide tension nut, as it seems to help keep the threaded rod straight. Any ideas where to source a good tension assembly? Everywhere I search seems to turn up the same inexpensive (and ineffective) version. Thanks
  23. Pintodeluxe
    Great, I will check that as well. Thanks!
  24. Pintodeluxe
    Ok, I took out pin 20 and tested it again. The tension assembly behaves the same without the pin. That is to say it sews well, but it needs a lot of tension. I reinstalled the pin and oiled it. The discs seem to release normally with the knee lift or foot lift lever. Maybe I'm just worried about nothing, but at minimum the threaded rod is bent, and may work better with a heavier spring and double-wide tension nut. I'll shop for a better quality tension assembly. Thanks for all the replies, I really do appreciate the help.
  25. Pintodeluxe
    Thanks Uwe, I'll see if I can differentiate between the release mechanism and the tension assembly. Much appreciated.
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