Pintodeluxe

I haven't encountered any quality issues with different brand of feet. Many of the feet for my 563 are fairly high profile (tall) and can limit the thickness you can sew. For this reason I prefer the lower profile feet. Same feet as Consew 206, 226 and others. For some reason the low profile ones tend to be chrome, and the tall ones are black, but not always. I use a 1/4" piping foot most often, but left and right zipper feet are nice to have as well. As far as bobbins, make sure to get the extra large "U" style bobbins. M bobbins fit in the case, but the machine is designed for U style. You will like the machine. For the upholstery weight leather I sew, I haven't found anything I'd rather have.

Did you figure out your Pfaff machine, and get it sewing well? It looks like you have a couple little issues with the way it's threaded. The way you've come through the guide post on top of the machine looks good. But when you head over to the tension assembly, enter the top hole from the right-to-left, then enter the bottom hole right-to-left as well. Kind of like a barber pole pattern. Also, when you wrap around the tension discs, don't go around that little pin. There's a lot of misinformation on that part of threading an industrial machine. Going around that little pin adds unnecessary upper tension. Also, I would ditch the special thread for right now. Get yourself some #92 bonded nylon thread and a #19 or #20 size needle. That's a good universal setup that your 545 won't have any trouble handling. That way you can isolate the machine issues from the thread / material issues. Also, is this a H3 or H4 variant of the 545? They actually take different needle systems.

Bob from Toledo Sewing sells them. I really like the layout with the motor directly under the speed reducer. Nothing is in the way, and everything works as it should.

I put one on my Juki, and really like the slow speed control. It also adds a wallop of punching power. I use a box style speed reducer that mounts to the table using the same bolt holes as the motor. Then you can mount the motor to the box style speed reducer. I use a servo motor too. I had a standard double wheel speed reducer, but didn't like it. The way it was mounted prevented me from tipping the head back.

You can make your own table, which I have done in the past. I laminated high quality plywood together, then attached Formica with contact adhesive. Then rout a special sized slot for the T-molding. Routing out for the hinges adds time, and requires a template. I had fun doing it, but it cost several times as much as just buying a new top. I had the plywood and T-molding leftover from another project, so it made sense for me. I use a 563 too, and have it set up with a servo and box style speed reducer. I also converted it to use system 190 needles. It helped me with a clearance issue I was having between the needle bar guide and the higher profile feet I have for it. Enjoy your new machine.

I've never done a conversion, but I've had both 562 and 563 models. I've heard that the number of distinct parts makes it cost more than just selling the 562 and buying a 563. I once took a Virago into a motorcycle shop and asked the mechanic how to make it faster. He quickly replied "Sell it and buy a Ninja.". It turned out to be sage advice. Good luck with the project. I'd still love to see how the process goes.

It looks like a Pfaff with that gold paint! You're in for a big job converting it to a 563. It might just be easier to start with a 563. That big U style bobbin is nice though.

I'd recommend the Juki LU-563 without hesitation. It's the machine I use personally, and it has an extra large capacity U style bobbin (even bigger than an M bobbin). Plus it has other features that I like such as top loading (drop-in) bobbin, and a large paddle style reverse lever.

Certainly if anything is amiss with your thread path, or the needle isn't matched to the thread.. would be the easy things to make sure of first. Then adjust the bobbin tension for a light, steady tension. Then readjust the upper tension to balance the stitch. I've encountered broken tension mechanisms that needed to be replaced. No amount of adjusting will fix a broken tension mechanism. As far as the "Dual tension discs" only one is for tension, the other one is a check spring. It should move up and down as you sew.

A Consew 226 was my first walking foot, and I thought it was the most elegant machine to sew on. The combination of a top loading bobbin, and a reverse lever that you press down to activate are features I really like. The only real limitation it had for me was the small bobbin. A "G" style bobbin is too small for the projects I do with #92 thread. I've had the 206rb-1 as well and I like them okay. I don't have the dexterity in my left hand to pop a bobbin in blind. So for me it means tilting the machine back to change bobbins. Not a big deal, just not as convenient. Otherwise, they're bulletproof machines as long as you know their limitations. I switched to a Juki LU-563 with extra capacity U style bobbin. A couple add-ons like a servo and box-style speed reducer have made it the perfect performer. I also converted it to a 190 needle system so I can use a wider variety of thick piping feet without clearance issues. So in your search for a machine, I would include machines like the Juki 563 and Pfaff 545 as well.

Wow, a Juki and servo for 50 clams? Good job! If you can find the hammered rosemary color spray paint from Rust-Oleum, it's a perfect match for a Juki.

Top loading bobbins are easier to use in my opinion. The 226 is a great machine.

It looks like a beauty. You got a good one!

Oh, so you're the fellow that outbid me... Seattle area right? Enjoy your new toy! I have one just like it (few more scratches) and like it very well.

I would focus on getting an upholstery class machine that can do that work well. If you still want to do gun holsters, then you'd have to add another machine at some point. The upholstery machines I like best are # 3 the Pfaff 545, #2 the Pfaff 1245, and #1 the Juki LU-563. The reasons I like the Juki so well are the extra large U style drop-in bobbin and paddle style reverse. I run my Juki with a servo motor and a box style speed reducer and it's a great machine. You'd be able to poke around with leather crafting with that style of machine. It will run up to #138 thread.

Industrial machines use a lot more upper tension than domestic machines. There will always be some top tension, but the foot lift / or knee lift should release most of the upper tension. Look and feel the tension discs as you lift the foot. Do the discs separate slightly? If not, you may need to replace the tension assembly and related parts.

The Pfaff 145 is fine. Add a servo motor with 45mm motor pulley, and you're in business. The Consew 225 would not be my preferred machine, due to the fact that it lacks reverse. I prefer big bobbin top loaders like Juki Lu-563, Pfaff 545, Pfaff 1245 etc, but if you can get by with a small bobbin the 145 is a fine machine.

Looks like a Yamata type walking foot. Not a true triple feed walking foot, but I've had one like it and it seemed to work ok for thin leather. They usually don't have a very high lift.

This looks like a great idea. I had that style of speed reducer mounted to the table, but I didn't like it because I couldn't tip the machine head back. This should solve that issue. I went with a box type speed reducer, which works great too. This is a very clever idea you came up with. Nice work.

Impressive display of talent. I really, really like the design. The implementation is flawless.

I'm continually amazed at the depth of answers this forum brings. Amazing breadth of information and expertise here! Thanks to all who contribute.

The H3 means standard lift. H4 would be a high lift foot. CLPMN are commonly designated codes. The L means for leather. The other letters each have a meaning, and I think there's a chart online that describes what each one indicates. Someone here will probably know it off the top of their head.

Nice looking Pfaff. Wow that thing is clean. If you don't have a paper manual, pull it up online. I think it shows the timing arrows in the manual. It's been a long time since I had a 1245, but most machines have some sort of synchronization arrows under the machine head, to the right of center. Turn the handwheel toward you until you see an arrow. It should come into alignment with a second arrow. If it doesn't, the internal timing belt was probably installed incorrectly, ie: like 180 degrees out of phase.

Are the upper and lower shafts synchronized? In other words do the timing arrows align under the machine? This is a common problem, and should be pretty easy to sort out.

If the Consew takes the lead in this contest, I would recommend you try a 206rb-1, 2, 3 etc. The older gray Japanese machines are a world better in my book. The 206rb-5 always sounds like it needs oil... Clackety-clack it goes, and no amount of oil helps. The earlier models were built to more exacting standards and sound like a well oiled machine. Smooth, quiet and nice. Good luck making a decision.