JerryLevine

Chris, The topic of Pricking Irons (which is whaqt you've got if you bought them from Joseph Dixon, not 'strap prickers') has come up several times in the last few years. You might find these posts useful (Gary, from Scotland brought these three together from a load of search items). http://leatherworker...=1 http://leatherworker...=1 http://leatherworker...=1 They cover all sorts of things from how to use them, through value for money, etc. A load of other people contributed and you might find getting them involved helpful if these don't hit all the right spots. Good luck, Jerry

I absolutely support the granite options. At the risk of sounding macabre, my first piece was a botched gravestone which I was given for free by the undertaker. The supporting structure/table/bench (and the floor underneath it) must be REALLY sturdy; you do not want this stuff dropping on your foot mid-way through a stamping session. Also watch your back when you try to shift the granite! Good luck.

It's not so much the Value Added Tax (VAT) or the import duty, but the post office's handling charge, which for a small package like this is going to cost around $12-15!!!! The only things that don't get stopped are things that clearly state they're antique/second-hand/pre-owned things. Oh Well, we'll see! Now if you can fit up a jig or something that uses two burnishers, driven from a single Dremel that could do both sides of a strap at once.......(no commission charged on free creative thought!) Thanks again, Jerry

Bobby, Thanks for the Loktite tip. Unfortuately that would mean I would have to leave them out of the box, which would, invenitably, lead to them becoming misplaced. I'll give it a go for my next dedicated session, though, because i've also got some superglue remover....! I also like the discipline of counting your strokes. Thanks again. Jerry

Chris, That's great: MANY thanks.....Please see my order. Now all I have to do is to see how much the UK Customs sting me for! Thanks again. Jerry

They sound like just what I need for my bridlery and strap work. Any idea what the postage to the UK might be? All the best, Jerry

Sorry to see you've come off with a busted tool. I use one of these http://www.josephdixon.co.uk/products/Saddlers_Tooling/Screw.html which are all steel. I've been to the place where they make them by hand (which is why they're expensive!!), so I'm happy they'll hold up. I use a camping gas stove heat to my crease. I don't think you need to get them red hot to make a permanent mark, but it depends on the effect you're trying to create; I did a lot of experimentation before I did a line for real. I've filed down and re-shaped the inside blade (left in my case - I'm right handed; right blade though, if you're left handed), so that there's more hanging over the edge of the leather to reduce the chance of me slipping and making a permanent mess. Good luck with your new crease, if get another. All the best. Jerry

Hi Guys, I've used the Lansky system for years, which lokos very similar to the Gatco one. I hadn't seen the Gatco one until I saw it in this thread - it actually looks more comprehensive than the Lansky one (Thanks for pointing it out, Tim). Just to add my tuppence here to Tim's notes above........ Do eveything Tim says, but remember to overlap your strokes when you move the jig to the other side of the handle, so that you get the same angle all the way across the blade. One problem I have with the Lansky system which I think the Gatco system seems to solve is that my guide rods for the hones work loose, causing the the hones to swivel and become unlevel. I always put my hone and guide rod assembly on my skiving slab to make sure the face of the hone and guide rod are properly level before I tighten the screw to secure the rod to the hone. This ensures that the angle I'm using is accurate and consistent (Gatco seems to have fixed the hone guides in place so that you won't have that issue) and its a real pain to have to stop making small circles to have to re-level the whole thing every few minutes when they work loose.... Think I'll have a look at the Gatco system properly! All the best, Jerry

Hi Gary, Not sure if you got my last PM, but I'm still very interested in your rotary burnishers, when you've got one ready. All the best, Jerry

I'd like to change my display name but I'm noty able to see exactly where to go to do it in my Control Panel. I'm probabaly being very stupid, but your help would be appreciated! Many thanks, Jerry Name: Jerry Levine UserName: JerryLevine IP Address: 217.34.50.144 Email Address: jerryl@compuserve.com

Not really sure how to describe cotton wool in American! Definitely NOT flannel, though. It looks like cotton candy/candy floss and is used to dab on disinfectant, lotions, etc or by the girls to take off make up. This link might help: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-cotton-wool.htm Anway, in the UK it comes either as balls, which look very like cotton bolls just before they're harvested off the cotton plant, or as a roll. I either take a pinch of the cotton wool or a complete ball to wet it under the tap for tapping down. Sorry I can't be more helpful. Jerry

One major difference in British Army boots - known as 'Ammuntion' or more commonly 'Ammo' boots is that they come with a knobbly, textured finish when fresh out of the box (actually when they're first thrown at you by the storeman!). This has to be burnt down to form a smooth surface for the polish to adhere to. If you can break the boots in a bit, so that creases form when you flex them, so much the better. However, most ammo boots get double- or triple-tapped; that is to say one or two extra soles are added to the boot, so that flexion is not an option! I did the burning down with a butane burner direct to the leather. I can hear the shouts of horror; but it was done in ignorance 30 years ago! First though, polish is added to the surface to prevent over-heating one spot and cracking the leather. The surface is then 'burnt' until the bumps have gone. I've heard of people using soldering irons, teaspoons heated in a cooker flame, etc, etc, but the effect is the same. There is a risk of completely burning through the leather or charring the surface, so if you're going to try this be very careful. Once the surface has been 'burnt down', beeswax (it must be very pure beeswax) is rubbed into the still-warm surface. It must sink in but not leave too much on the surface. Once the beeswax has set, the boot is then 'layered up'. A scoop of Kiwi polish is taken with the fingers and spread evenly all over the surface of the boot. Water or more commonly saliva is used to help smooth the polish. After several layers, the boots are then left to dry while you try to clean your fingers and get some sleep before Reveille. The polishing or bulling is done with a 'Sylvet' cloth. If you get a new one, it needs washing a couple of times and throughly rinsing before use. The cloth is dunked in hot water for a few minutes and then wrung out thoroughly (the dunking removes caked on polish from last time). Hold index and middle finger together and wrap a single layer of the cloth around them. Twist the rest of the cloth so that the layer becomes tight and the rest of the cloth is gripped around the back of your hand and secured in your fist out of the way. You'll need to change positions in the cloth every so often, so you get the knack eventually! Now in a new tin of Kiwi (it must be new or have never had a brush in it. Dry polish in the brush gets into the polish and forms a sort of grit that is very detrimental to a mirror shine), get a little on you cloth cover fingers and start making small circles. After a while, you'll notice a shine starting to appear; keep going, using spit to lubricate. It's now really important to keep your cloth clean, without any trace of dust, old polish, etc. Once you've finished (ie can see your face in the polished surface), the final step is to 'tapping down'. I was told to use a new piece of cotton wool, and while running the boot under a cold running tap, carefully rub over the surface of the polish. Not sure what this does; perhaps it just acts as a lubricant for the finer polishing surface of the cotton wool. After you've worn the boots, polish will have cracked off where the creases are and you will see your hard work come flaking off. Not to worry though, as long as you've gone the foundation right, the majority of the boot's polish will hold up. The way to get the flakes off is to use a bunched-up pair or stickings/tights/pantyhose. The little holes in the weave catch the sharp corners of the flakes and bring them off with the damage that a brush would do. Then its back to the Sylvet, spit, polish and small circles! If all the above seems not to make sense, try here: http://www.guardsgea...oots/4528222660 I AM NOT associated with this site, but it looks like you can get all the gear from them, or even to get the whole job done by them! Good luck, Jerry

Hi Ray, I found this rather belatedly while I was searching for how best to create a stirrup slot on a saddle tree with Arizona bars, so not sure quite how I managed to end up on this page..... Anyway, I've been a Grenadier Guardsman (red coat, fluffy hat, big houses in London, etc, etc) since 1980 and if you're still interested in this subject I can add to what our American colleagues have already posted 2 yeras ago. It still very definitely goes on (I was Chief Usher on the Queen's Brithday Parade this year and I'm just about to bull my civvie shoes to go to MoD, so I've had recent expereince).There are some significant differences, but the common factor is Kiwi polish! All the best, Jerry PS If you know anything about sorting out Arizona bars.........!

Hi Chris, You could use the same technique as making round reins/straps. I've got a tool called a rein-rounder which is like a reducing die that you pull the strap through successively smaller holes until it has become round. You could make something similar for lace. If you search for 'rein-rounder' or 'rein +rounder' on this site you should get some more details. I think Al Stohlman's book 'Hand Stitching Leather' has details of how to use. Basically it is 2 pieces of wood or metal, hinged at one end and securely fastended at the other. Where the pieces join, a series of holes is drilled and slightly countersunk, so that half of each hole appears on each piece of wood (Thismight be difficult to visualise; if so I'll take a picture of the tool and post it back to you!). The inside of each hole is very smooth. You wet you leather, open the tool, place the strap/lace in the smallest hole it will comfortable fit and close the tool down again (It helps if its secured to the bench). You then pull the strap through the gole and you will see tthe edges have become rounded. Open the tool up again, put the trap in the next smallest hole and repeat until round. I expect if you're just using one size of thong/lace, you could just drill a hole of the appropriate size in a piece of wood, taper one end of the lace to feed it through the hole and then just pull it through. You might need to experiment though! Good luck! Jerry

John, cowboyjohn, who lives in Scotland, imports Weaver products. You could always try coordinating with a friend or colleague who's going to the States, by posting it to their US address. That way you only pay customs charges when they return to the UK, rather than being hit by the triple whammy of hideous postage, customs charges and the Post Office's 'handling charge'! If you go for that, make sure you leave enough time for the package to reach your friend. The US is a big place and postage takes longer than it does over here. You should also make sure you friend takes the fitting hammer out of its US postal packaging before putting it in their luggage, so that he/she can say he knows what he packed when asked at the airport. All the best, Jerry

There's a good thread on this site here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1463 which will be of interest Donna has been very timely with her replies and I'm considering buying a set myself. Good luck. Jerry

Being one of the Euro folk, I would back up all the good things said about Dixon's tools; most of my punches and edgers are Dixons, as are many of my 'general' tools (dividers, races, pliers, etc). You get what you pay for; they're expensive, but worth it. I would also echo the advice to try as much stuff as you can before you buy and don't buy everything at once. With the US$/GB£/Euro exchange rates the way they are at the moment, now would be a good time to buy from this side of the pond. I also have Dixon's round knives, but in the last few weeks I got to try out Bee Natural's K2 Kutting system (here's the URL: http://www.bee-natur...=7490418_10497), which was absolutely fantastic, the best one I've ever used for both skiving and cutting. I've since bought one for myself. Again, expensive, but you get what you pay for. The one I tried was in use in a saddle shop and so had been properly sharpened. I'm not sure what they're like out of the box, but Bee Natural do offer a sharpening service so I'm guessing its going to be pretty good. Good luck with your buying. Jerry

I'm about to build a saddle for use in England (That's the original one, not 'New....), where the weather is usually very damp. I had intended to put in an all-leather groundseat and mentioned it to a renowned saddle maker who advised me that an all-leather ground seat was great for people living in hot, dry climates, but that the arch usually created in an all-leather groundseat was likely to collapse in a humid/damp climate. It seems that your method, Steve, doesn't rely on creating an arch in the damp leather and then letting it 'set'. The risers seem to do the job. Anyone got any comments on that? All the best, Jerry

The Texas Dies products look like a good bet. For anyone in Europe or anyone wanting an alternative source, you could try Joseph Dixon & Sons website: http://www.josephdixon.co.uk/products/Saddlers_Tooling/Punches/Crew_Punches.html They are more expensive and, of course, there's always postage costs from across the pond, but they are really excellent tools which will last a lifetime. Also, eBay comes up with such items as well, but you can't bet on them being the right size!

Hi There, We had a bit of a conversation about pricking irons and hand sewing earlier in the year: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17122&st=20&p=114076entry114076 It may be useful. Also this tutorial from Bowstock: http://www.bowstock.co.uk/saddstit0.html Otherwise, I completely support Celtic, Rawhide and Gary's comments. One of the best things about using a pricking iron is that the intial mark seems to guide the awl in correct way to ensure a hole at the right angle but it also helps you get the awl parallel to the ground and so all you holes on the back of the work come out even and in line with the front. Spending the money on good irons is definitely worth it! All the best, Jerry

I assume that if you're calling this a snap, its closing a flap rather than fixing the two bits of leather together. If this is a snap as opposed to a rivet, there should be some more 'male' and 'female' bits visible. Any chance of posting pictures of the other bits? Then we could try to tell whether it is magnetic, uses a round spring or an 's' spring, etc, etc and hopefully at least narrow the field for you. Jerry

Just to add a bit to Jim Saddler's comments about pricking irons and pricking wheels (not to be confused with stich markers and overstitch wheels)...These still find a lot of use with English saddlery and bridlery, but not much (I don't think) in western saddle making. The great thing about pricking irons/wheels is that they actually produce marks at the right angle and if you get a bit of practice in, holding your awl perpendicular to the surface of the leather and conforming to the angle of the mark, you can quickly produce acceptable results on both the front and the back of the leather. I sew my English bridles at 10spi, which is still quite hard work, especially on the eyes! I've not tried 12 or greater spi yet. Rumour has it that the old timers here used to do upto 16spi! The down side with pricking irons/wheels is that new ones are expensive (http://www.abbeysaddlery.co.uk/product_det...;attr1=NO010005) at US$60+. You can get 2nd hand ones on eBay and they're worth snapping up if you can. Practice hitting them square with a plastic/rawhide mallet/maul, overlap each run by a couple of teeth and practice going round corners by tilting the iron onto its edge and only using a couple of teeth at a time. Try the tutorials here: http://www.bowstock.co.uk/tutorials.html Good luck! Jerry

Hi everyone, Please add me to the list of Brenda's satisfied customers. Laser Gift Creations have done me proud, and contrary to popular belief, posting to the other side of the pond (England - the original one, not 'New') was not a problem (except for the Customs charges!). I attach a picture of the design impression, which I had done in two sizes, one for saddlery (which I've yet to start) and one for my bridles. As you can see, it's a complex design, but it's turned out beautifully! Nice one Brenda! Jerry

Hi All, Lots of stuff above about various different oils, etc, but no one addressed the difference between Pure Neatsfoot oil and Compound Neatsfoot. I know the latter has some 'additives', including some mineral oil (or so I understand). But what is it that makes compund neatsfoot something that is avoided by just about everyone? I did meet a saddle maker in Florida who prefers compund to pure because the additives repel mildrew and insects (didn't ask about the mice though!) and ultraviolet light. So two supplimentary questions: 1. Do these additives actually repel mildew and insects and protect from UV and 2. I assume these properties would be considered to be "good things", what is the problem with compound neatsfoot that makes everyone steer clear of it? Many thanks, Jerry