cdthayer

After the third time, I just hang up the wrenches and go drink beer. Sometimes, buying a box of 25 is not a bad idea. CD in Oklahoma

If you’re using a cone of thread, here’s how I feed the cone thread on my Singer 29K70. I use the small cones because I normally just do repairs, so I don’t use much thread, but I need as many colors as I can find. I used an old peanut can to set the cone in on the front side of the pillar, routed the thread up around the original thread spool pin, and on to the lubrication pot and beyond. Later on, I cut the top out of a Justin Roper Boot, stuffed a plastic butter dish down in it, and then put the peanut can inside of that. The peanut can keeps the thread from catching on the boot pull-on straps when it feeds off, and the boot top looks a little better than the peanut can by itself. On another machine that I have at home, I had to turn the boot top inside-out to keep the thread from catching without a peanut can inside of it. I probably should make something a little more permanent like Wiz was talking about, but it’s been working for several years. On another note, my machine is stored near the large front windows of the shop, so the boot top keeps the sun from shining directly on my thread cone when not being used. CD in Oklahoma

When I click on the “Quote” button on a post, I get the text field to type in my reply, but the previous post is not visible. I used to edit the original post down to only include what I was responding to, but now there’s nothing at all visible about the original post that I want to quote. Am I doing something wrong? CD in Oklahoma

As a Consew 225 owner, I just think it’s interesting that someone would want to convert a triple-feed walking foot machine into a roller-feed machine. You do realize that you have a machine that many guys struggling along with a roller-foot machine would love to have, don’t you? Why don’t you put your Consew up for sale or trade? You could probably get 2 or 3 roller-feed flatbed machines for your Consew 225, and maybe even some boot to go along with it.... CD in Oklahoma

OP quote: “in my singer 31, the needle bar connecting link (43997) is giving the tension releasing lever (43944) a little bump each time the needle goes down.” I have my Singer 31-15 treadle machine setup in my bikeshop following a project of sewing equipment covers out of recycled billboard vinyl. I popped the faceplate off and took a few photos for you. Maybe they will help. On the down stroke of the needle bar on my 31-15, part #43997 comes within a hair of the lever #43944, but does not touch it. I would check a couple of things: 1. Make sure that the upper tension is seated in the housing correctly. The set screw (under the harp) should be nestled in the trough of the tension assembly. If your tension assembly is inserted into the head too far, the set screw could be gripping it up on the outer shoulder instead of in the trough, causing the tension assembly to be too close to the release lever. 2. Look at the center pin on my photos. If your center pin extends further out toward the releasing lever, it may have a replacement center pin that is too long and needs to be trimmed down. CD in Oklahoma

Constabulary, The Singer 95-1 had the timing belt that you’re talking about, but by the time that the model 95-40 came out, the belt had been replaced by gears and shaft. I’m not sure which sub-model they changed with. CD in Oklahoma

I’ve been tinkering with the upper tension and pre-tension assemblies today. Using 4 layers of woven upholstery fabric, my knot was just barely showing on the bottom. (I ripped all of the stitches out of the 1.5” belting that I used for photos earlier. That army green belting showed the stitches a lot better than the multi-colored woven fabric that I’m making stitch after stitch into now.) Back during clean-up, I took both of the upper tensions completely apart and cleaned the rust and debris out of them. The bobbin tension canister looked clean enough that I didn’t take it apart. So now I’m bringing the top tension up to match the bottom tension. Is there any rule-of-thumb for coordinating the tension and pre-tension assemblies on the Adler 205-64? I’m not sure that I understand all I know about pre-tensioners, which is very little. And another question, what feet designed for other machines will fit the 205-64? I want to try grinding one down for closer work. CD in Oklahoma

Oh, and I would leave the retaining ring alone. The belts will come and go over it without a problem. You have to take the belt off of the bottom pulley/sprocket to get slack to remove the old belt (out through the hole where the bearing was), and then after fishing the new belt in, you’ll put the new belt onto the bottom pulley/sprocket last. CD in Oklahoma

Hi Meets, Welcome to the Leatherworker Forum. You’re talking about quite an undertaking converting a 225 to a 226R. I suppose there’s no way that you can be talked out of it, huh? You should probably get the belt changed before you attempt the conversion. On my Singer 111G156, I drove the bearing out toward the handwheel end using a soft punch by reaching it through the inspection plate opening and working each side out slowly. You may figure out a better way. CD in Oklahoma

You’re correct, there will be no belt, but the surface-mount BW can be converted to a mini handcrank winder by drilling one hole in the fiber wheel and mounting a rotating knob like Jim Morse is doing over on YouTube (Search: Morse Industrial Hand Crank Sewing Machine). It may look dinky and flakey to some, but it gets a bobbin wound without electricity. I know you want the military webbing, and I can appreciate that with what you do, but I’m going to hang onto the little bit that I have. I have WWII parachute guys in my town, so the vintage WWII stuff is popular here too. BTW: What is your first name please? And may I call you by your first name instead of “Constabulary”? CD in Oklahoma

I appreciate the offer, but I’m good on bobbin winders. I can wind bobbins on my handcrank winder, and I have the original surface-mount bobbin winder as well. I’m in the process of getting it limbered back up now. CD in Oklahoma

Treadle operation would be better than handcrank. Electric would be better yet. If I ever come up with a treadle for it, that would be great. I have power stands and motors that I could cobble together for a home-built electric one. So far, I haven’t done anything to this head that can’t be undone to convert to either treadle or electric later. The problem with either stand will be floor space to put it. Mounting it on an existing toolbox made it possible to have it in my crowded space. And since it will no doubt see little use, I can’t justify the cost or the need of a more convenient power system. Yes, that’s 1.5” wide webbing, and it appears to be military surplus. I just have the one roll of it (maybe 12” diameter) that I bought at a garage sale a year ago. It was in at least two pieces on the roll. I cut my sample at a splice made with metal staples. I haven’t unrolled the rest of it to see what it looks like. I don’t have access to any other supply of it. Thanks to everyone for helping get this old beast up and running. Although it’s not complete yet, it’s to where I can use it. CD in Oklahoma

It hand cranks through 1/2” of webbing easy enough, if you start with the needle up and keep just a little momentum going. I’ll miss having both hands on the webbing straps, but it is workable. CD in Oklahoma

Well, a lot has happened to my Adler 205-64 since my last post in February. I have it sewing today! Not bad stitches starting out, and it never missed a one! That lets me know that the hook is good (and without being able to try it before spending some major bucks, I was worried), so I’m a happy camper. Here’s what is going on with my handcranked Adler 205-64 so far: 1. I went with Trox’s suggestion on using a suicide knob clamped onto the rim of the balance wheel. I think it will clamp tight enough to work without damaging the wheel or the knob. I’ll have to see how it holds up to heavy sewing. I put a piece of vinyl in the clamp to help with grip. It will need a counter-balance on the opposite side of the wheel to offset the weight of the knob (it’s a heavy one) so that the needle doesn’t come down when I’m not ready. I’m thinking rolls of pennies in thin rubber tubing tucked into the curve of the rim, but I’ll have to experiment. 2. Since I don’t have a suitable stand, I mounted the machine on the top of a fairly large toolbox. Without a motor to counter-balance the weight of the machine, I’m going to use tools in a cabinet instead. The toolbox has wheels under it too, so that’s important when you’re getting stove-up like I am. I’m always having to move my machines around in my small quarters. The two wheels that are pivot castors have locks on them, but I didn’t need them for my test-sewing. 3. I opted to forgo the replacement parts to the automatic tension release for the time being (it’s a money thing). I’ll just release the tension manually for now using a thumb and finger to spread the tension disks. 4. For winding bobbins manually, I’m using a handcrank bobbin winder that I came up with to use for my treadle Singer 31-15. I think it’s a bobbin winder for use in some other fiber craft, but I don’t know which one. I snagged it off of that auction site. A piece of rubber vacuum hose on the unused small spindle (I don’t have any bobbins with that small of a center hole), along with the thickness of the thread laced through the center of the bobbin when I slide it on, makes a nice tight connection to turn the bobbin. I provide tension with my left hand as well as guide the thread wraps while I crank with my right hand. I could have done the first bobbin a little neater, but I was anxious and in a hurry. 5. My test-sew indicates that my top tension is too loose. The knot is just barely inside of the bottom side of the leather in my sample. I could catch the knot with my fingernail every once in a while along the stitchline, so I’ll be working on getting the tensions set better. I think that most of my sewing will be making repairs in woven materials (mostly webbing), so before I go too far with tension settings, I’ll get a different test-sew sample. I’m using poly 277 in both top and bottom right now, and I’ve heard that some Adler 205 machines work better with a size smaller thread in the bobbin, so I’ll have to experiment. For repair work, I’d like to use the same size top and bottom. Here are photos of the orphaned Adler 205-64 as it looks now. CD in Oklahoma

Looks good. Well done. CD in Oklahoma

Should make you a nice machine when finished. CD in Oklahoma

Constabulary: “@ CD Why such a large pulley? Is it really necessary?” It’s just what I’ve found. Larger than needed, but should work alright. CD in Oklahoma

I like seeing everyone’s speed reducers. I came up with an 11” x 2” step pulley that I’d like to put on my H-leg stand that I have my Singer 111G156 in. I’ve got to find a bracket for it yet, or have one made. CD in Oklahoma

How about cling wrap? Lay the item face-down on a small piece of wrap, fold all of the excess to the back side, and put a small stick-on tag on either front or back. It should help keep them clean during handling too. CD in Oklahoma

Your problems with your Singer 31-15 not liking needles with a scarf made me panic just enough to go see if mine would work with them. I tested with an Organ 16x95-20 needle, TEX92 bonded thread, on two layers of heavy recycled billboard vinyl. I'm relieved to say that mine picks the bottom thread up without any issues. I sewed a couple of stitch lines after taking a photo, just to make sure. There must be some other thing causing your machine to not pick up the loop that the needle is supposed to make. I'd look for something causing the loop to collapse prior to the hook arriving at the needle. A common problem is too large of a needle for the thread size, allowing the thread to come back up with the needle. CD in Oklahoma

I won’t be much help. I have a Singer 31-15 in a treadle stand that originally came in a treadle stand. I’ve only used TEX92 thread and 16x87 110/18 needles in it so far. They have no scarf. I’m not sure what brand the needles are, probably MUVA, but I haven’t had any problems. Back in 2007 when I ordered a variety of sizes of 16x87 needles, they sent me 10-packs of Organ needles DBx1 (16x231, 16x257, 1738) in sizes 90/14 and 100/16, but I haven’t ever used them yet. They both have a scarf, so I may run into the same problem that you’re having if I do. They sent me the unknown 10-pack of 16x87 mentioned above for the 18’s, and a 10-pack of DBx95 (287WH, 16x95, SY1515) for the size 20, and the 20s have a scarf. I have what is left of a 10-pack of unknown brand DBx1 (16x231, SY2270) in size 80/12 that I haven’t tried yet either, and they even have a tiny scarf. In an old 1916 User Manual that I have, Singer recommended 16x73 in a foot-powered stand, and 16x87 in a power table, and they were both available in sizes 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22, and 23. I guess back then, the sewing speed determined which needle Singer wanted you to use. I’m sure everything has changed by now. I’ve not ever seen a 16x73 needle, so I don’t know if they’re scarf-less or not. CD in Oklahoma

Fresh hide scraping tool? CD in Oklahoma

I want to try some kind of a clamp-on hand crank. I have a couple of ideas, and I’ve been keeping my eye out for the parts that I need. I’ve put this machine rehab project on the back burner for a while. I have some other projects that I need to do, plus, I need to come up with the “fundage” to buy my parts. It’s been a slow winter at the shop this year. CD in Oklahoma

Thanks for posting the link to the Colorado Saddle Makers Association. I didn’t know about it. This is kind of off-topic, but I hope someday they include Colorado Saddle Maker History on the site. That would be interesting. Really off-topic, but I still have my first kid saddle that my Dad had made when he got himself a new one back in the mid-50s. It is kid-sized, but built strong enough for ranch work. They were made at the Martin Saddle Shop in Bayfield Colorado. CD in Oklahoma

That's one way to do it. Another thing that works, is to just simply reject the offer and take it off of the market to keep it instead of selling it. CD in Oklahoma