cdthayer

Has anyone ever put a handcrank knob on an Adler 205-64 and sewn with it by hand crank power? CD in Oklahoma

Our Check-off List has really helped us have what we need when we go to a show. We typically go through the list 2-3 days ahead of time to decide what to take. We've known what size and shape our booth will be since we signed up, but waiting until just before time to go allows us to be able to consider weather conditions that we'll face. Forecasts are better close to the event day. Even when it's an indoor booth, we still have to get us and our gear from the truck to the booth in a downpour of rain sometimes. That takes rain gear that we wouldn't normally take, like large plastic bags to put inventory and gear in, extra rags to wipe down tables, totes, and larger display stands, and personal rain gear to keep us from having to work the booth soaking wet for hours. And if it's an outside booth, the wind forecast is important for considering display stand types and display weights to help keep everything from blowing away. Nothing like spending the day chasing the stuff that blows away from your booth. CD in Oklahoma

OK, I know this isn't what the thread is talking about, but I just had to add my Industrial Sewing Cabinet "Slip N Slide" to the fracas for fun. I set up my Slip N Slide when I re-sew dirty, nasty, old truck tarps or swimming pool covers out on my patio. Some thread runs are over 30 feet long, on an item up to 20 feet wide. I elevate the feed surface, and lower the sewn surface to help feed the item through the machine as a 1-man operation. Most of the time spent is re-folding instead of sewing. An old metal door on one end and a piece of roofing tin on the other.... It works. CD in Oklahoma

My wife and I have been vendors at quilt and craft shows for the past 7 years. We attend about 6 events each year. After only the first few venues that we attended, it was apparent that we needed some method of deciding what we needed to take, without having to think of everything on the spot, so I made up a "Remote Sales Check-off List" in Microsoft Excel. The same thing could be handwritten and copied if you don't want to be as granulated as us. We have set our booth up outside at some venues and inside at others. We've used electricity at some and not at others. Each booth type requires some different items that we don't want to forget to load, but we can't take everything. We use a pickup with a topper on it, and no trailer. I have 6 columns and 260 rows in my spreadsheet. The column headings are: Check - a 1/4 inch checkbox space to mark by hand on the paper copy Take - a 1/4 inch checkbox marked by computer when selecting what to take to each venue Item - Description field Storage - Indicates where the item is stored (home, shop, pickup, shed, etc) Location - Specific room or location at our storage sites (pantry, toolbox, storeroom, POS counter, etc) Type - Category entry (commerce, display, document, electrical, outdoor, product, supplies, etc) We've put every item that we've ever used or thought about using at a remote sales venue on our list. It's especially handy in those cases when we have duplicates of items (tote tubs, extension cords, tables, chairs). We start with a new full list every time we prepare to gather things to go to a show, even if we've been to that show before. Our list changes as we acquire items, so last year's list is only good to see what we took last time. The Take checkbox allows us to go down the entire list of things that we want to take and make an x in the box with the computer. Then the list is sorted by computer to trim down the list to what we are taking this time. That usually pares it down to about 100 items. Those items are then sorted by Storage and then by Location. Once the list is sorted on the computer, one paper copy is printed to use when we're pulling items. We put an X in the Check checkbox with a pen or pencil when the item is loaded or staged ready to load. We get really itemized on our list, and it may be over-kill to some. Some item examples are: 10 Tub entries, one for each tote tub that we have (different types, sizes) 19 Table entries, one for each table and tablecloth that we have (different types, sizes) 2 Tax Permit entries (different states) Scotch Tape (not just tape) Duct Tape Masking Tape Packing tape Measuring Tape Pens (with a write-in quantity) Notepad Post-it Note Pad We only have 34 Product entries, one for each product type, not individual items. We take different kinds of things to sell at each different venue, and only a limited quantity of each type. The specific items are selected on the fly when we load. The specific item list is more for the tools, equipment, and supplies that we'll need. Back home after the show, we always unload every item, empty every tub, and put everything back where it goes. We tried to keep a tub loaded with basic supplies setting ready to go, but then found that we didn't keep up with what we had used out of the tub well enough. It takes the two of us about an hour to go from empty pickup to hit-the-road, and about the same amount of time to unload and put away. CD in Oklahoma

That's what I did, but the part had other issues. The entire thing was out of spec. The ring that slides on the presser bar was out of position causing the two tabs to not fit into their positions properly, and the pilot pin on it that has to slide in the hole in the Presser Bar Lifting Bracket to keep the slide setting straight on the bar would not align with the hole when both parts were on the bar. Even by grinding down the wide tab that depresses the tension release, the rest of the design flaws wouldn't allow the part to function. By the time that I discovered all of this, I had already modified the wide tab to fit into the bracket groove, so I'm stuck with it. It's probably one of those parts that has been sent back umpteen times (as Eric mentioned that he has to do), and it finally found a home in my scrap box. It's really aggravating. Not only am I out the cost of the part and the time it took me to try to make the part work, but my machine is still dead in the water until I can find a part that is correct. CD in Oklahoma

That's where I got mine, and it had the same photo for the one that I bought, but you can see the difference on the one that I got. CD in Oklahoma

Well, I'm back to square one on my Singer 111G156. The bad Tension Release Slide #240500 that I bought and tried to make work, didn't, and then it broke. The tab that goes up to push in the tension release pin broke off. I guess I'll shelve this machine until I can find a good part. Does anyone know what the difference is between the 111G156 Tension Release Slide #240500 and the 111W155 Tension Disc Slide #264527, or is there any difference other than the part number? CD in Oklahoma

On some tension assemblies, the center stud screws into the bulb-like base to trap the check spring. For that type of assembly, mount the assembly back into the machine casting and tighten the set screw in the casting to hold the assembly, then turn the tension adjustment nut out or in until it's outer edge is flush with the outer end of the stud split. Insert a small screwdriver into the end of the stud (inside the nut) and turn gently to the left. Too much force can bend or break the split stud, so be easy with it. If it's been a while since it's been unscrewed, it may take a shot of penetrating oil back inside the base to get it to turn loose. CD in Oklahoma

It looks like a Singer 31-15 w/Roller Foot to me. CD in Oklahoma

I don't do much shoe repairing with my 29K70 machines, but when I do, I use the same thread that I use for everything else that I sew with my patchers. I use Tex90 UV-Resistant thread (mostly B-92 Bonded Polyester) for everything. It seems to flow well in my machines, except for the Army Drab Green spool that I have. It tends to slough the outer layer off and bunch up in the needle on longer runs, but I think it's the thread that is the problem. If I just have to use that color on anything but a short little run, I usually have problems. There is a fairly good selection of thread colors in the UVR92 threads now, and most of them work just fine. Still, I miss the days when I was starting out doing mostly embroidered patches on leather vests, and used to offer the customer any matching color thread that they wanted, as long as it was either black or white.... CD in Oklahoma

You can get too much bulk under the needle for the needle to penetrate on a Singer 31-15, even though the foot raises high enough for it to fit under the presser bar. I did it a couple of times yesterday while sewing on insulated duck overalls that I'm removing the full-length zippers in the sides and sewing the legs shut from the knee up. I was using Tex90 UV-resistant thread in a size 18 needle. On the bottom hem of the leg where all of the various layers with all of their turn-unders come together at the corner, I got a "thunk" a couple of times when it was simply too thick to penetrate. I always hand-crank the machine when I'm sewing those areas, mainly because it's hard for the roller wheel to crawl up on those lumps, and I'm sewing with a treadle. Sometimes I can rock the wheel back and forth a few times to get the needle through, but other times it just won't go. It sounds and feels like the needle is hitting something solid, but it's not going through even to the needle plate. There is enough material to stop the needle. If you've been going back to tack the preceding stitch line, you may be getting the same problem. Are you using a different brand of webbing than you had been using before? Maybe with a tighter weave? Have you sized your needle or thread up from before? The larger the needle, the more this will happen. Use the smallest needle that you can for the thread size that you're using. When you get onto thick woven stuff, using a large needle and thick thread, you may run into this from time to time in my experience. CD in Oklahoma

If you're wanting to "make shoes", you may have bought the wrong machine. The Singer 29K is primarily a "shoe repair" machine. What is the rest of your machine's model number? 29K what? CD in Oklahoma

Since I'm not out there in the bikeshop sewing my son's coveralls up with my Singer 31-15, I might as well try to help you with your problem. First thing that I would do, is remove the bobbin case, take the bobbin and thread out of the case, and put it all back together again making sure it's threaded correctly, and then put the bobbin case back onto the machine, making sure it's installed correctly. Sounds to me like your BC is not latched in properly. Second, put in a new needle, even if you've just done that. Take the upper thread completely out of the thread guides, and then rethread the upper part of the machine again. Test sew by hand turning the wheel, and keep going for a while even if it seems to sew without the needle hitting anything. CD in Oklahoma

I picked up a similar machine, a Singer 72W19, at an auction back in November of 2008. It was complete as far as I could tell, and just needed cleaned up. I advertised it a little in as-is condition, and in January of 2009, a middle-aged couple drove straight-through and straight-back in a Minivan from Salt Lake City Utah to get it. They were tickled to get it, but admitted that the "drive-til-you-get-there" kind of road trip wasn't as much fun as they remembered from back in their younger days. LOL. And they were only half way through it when they said it! They were here just long enough to load it, then off they went. I've had my eye on a Singer Industrial Treadle Stand that is similar to the one in your photo, and finally talked the owner into selling it to me yesterday. I have to go pick it up tomorrow and see for sure what I got. He had stuff stacked all over and around it, but I measured the cut-out at 7 x 18 7/8, so it will take several old machine types. It has the flywheel and pitman rod missing (removed for electric motor use) like yours, but mine also has the treadle plate missing. It's got the bobbin winder and knee lift assembly. I'm not sure what I'll use it for, but I snag those old cast iron industrial treadles when I can. I use my Singer 31-15 in one. CD in Oklahoma

My Tension Release Slide Part #240500 arrived yesterday, and I put it in this morning. What a piece of crap. I wish I could find well-made parts for these old machines. I could tell by looking at it that it wasn't going to fit without major modifications. It may give me problems when I sew something thick, because the guide pin was bent wrong and you can't re-bend a 90-degree piece of metal without breaking it, so I just broke it off. I'll have tension release when I raise the feet by hand or with the knee lift, but I may also get tension release when I sew something thick. I don't think that it will operate independently from the lift bracket, but it might. I'll watch for an original Singer part from a donor machine and change it out if I find one. I got another batch of replacement parts in today for my tension assembly, so if I can get them on in the morning, I'll try to get the presser feet and upper tension adjusted. CD in Oklahoma

Does the Pfaff 138 have a motor on it? It looks like a treadle machine to me. I have a Pfaff 130-6 that I mounted onto a Singer domestic treadle stand. The 2-spool thread tower on it is the type that was on my old Singer 111G156 that I brought home last week. I thought it might be an old one, and it looks like they put it on the older treadles maybe. Cool. CD in Oklahoma

Thanks Rayban. I've heard that Bob is pretty good. I tried contacting him a few years ago about a darning foot for a Singer 96-40, but I never heard back from anyone. I ended up buying one from another Vendor. My distributor didn't stock them so I had to go hunting one. CD in Oklahoma

I see that you're interested in US WWII - Vietnam militaria, sewing + repairing military canvas + leather items. Have you studied WWII Rigger Shops? Do you do any of the military style sewing? There's a group setting up a Rigger Shop here locally in a restored WWII hanger at our airport that used to be an Army Air Field. They do WWII style static line parachute jumps at events throughout the United States and Europe. Their program is about as authentic WWII as you can get. They bail out of a restored C47 named "Boogie Baby", and when they're headed out, they fly it low over town (and my house) to let everyone know when there's going to be a jump. Check them out at: WWII Airborne Demonstration Team CD in Oklahoma

The part is listed in the 111G156 Parts List as #240500 Tension Release Slide, that's where we missed it. As far as I can tell, it's basically the same part, and I have one coming for my machine. I'm not sure why mine is missing, but the knee-lift linkage is missing too, so maybe they had a problem with the lift and the Slide was damaged or got left out during reassembly. Thanks for your photo. I would have been a long time figuring out what was missing. CD in Oklahoma

Good find! I especially like the home-made speed reducer/increaser. I've thought about trying to come up with one of those to reduce the speed on my Consew 225. CD in Oklahoma

Like I say, poor men have poor ways. Yes, both of these feet have been braised back together. Here's another look at them. They're going into my "unusual collectables" box. I wish that I had more history information about this machine. I know that it was with the belongings of a 47-year upholstery shop that closed in 2008. It wasn't in use as the primary machine when I was in the shop in 2006. He was using a Pfaff at that time, and had been for quite a long time from what I understood. I was just getting acquainted with sewing machines then, so I don't know if the Singer that I saw setting unused in the shop was this one or not, but I think it probably was. After seeing how the timing was so out of whack on it, I can see why it was setting unused.... CD in Oklahoma

I didn't hear back from any of the Dealers on here, so I decided not to go to Wichita Falls. I'll pick up a Servo later on down the road. I can probably have one shipped to me about as cheap as making the trip. If I went, and couldn't get the Servo that I need, it would have been a waste of money. I love the smell of the leather in the room (I went last year), but right now I can't spend the money just to go "smiff da leather". It's just that I was hoping to throw a little business to you guys that make this site possible, and meet you at the same time. Did any of you Dealers on here attend? CD in Oklahoma

What looks like 2 washers is three wraps of the coil spring on the rear presser bar. The light reflecting off of the shinny bar makes the spring wraps look like the edge of washers. I'm wondering what else besides the Tension Disc Slide could be missing, even though it's not listed in the Parts List. There's got to be something coming up below the Lifting Bracket to push the pin in. The Lifting Bracket is hollow to slide up past the pin without pushing it in. I've been resetting my shaft collar and Safety Clutch. I think I have the correct set screw in the groove now. I thought it had really changed the needle timing, until I noticed that the Safety Clutch was tripped. I must have done that yesterday while I was messing with it. At least I know my Safety Clutch works now. When I went to set my hook timing, the set screws in the Hook Driving Pinion Gear were turned in backwards from where they should have been. I took them out one at a time and didn't see a flat spot under either of them, so I figured that the gear was set wrong. I needed to clean some rust out of the hook and bobbin case anyway, so I went ahead and pulled the Hook Shaft. There's a definite groove in the shaft for one of the set screws that I would have seen, so the timing was way out of whack on this machine. I just hope they didn't reset all of the other timing when they (whoever it was) were jacking around with things. I didn't check the Upper Belt Pulley when I had the belt off. Hopefully, they didn't reset that. I found a sheet metal screw in place of one of the Feed Dog screws, so now I've got to decide if I want to replace the Feed Bar or not. It was in tight, so I may go with it for now, or at least until I see if I can get the thing to sew before I drop that $35. Poor men have poor ways, so I've got to cut them some slack for trying to make do with what they could, but I wonder if they ever got any sewing done with the thing? CD in Oklahoma

Thanks for the photos and attachments. Is the machine photo (IMG_2930.JPG) taken of a 155 or a 156? As I mentioned in my previous post, my 111G156 machine doesn't have that part in it, and I don't see it listed in the 111G156 Parts List. CD in Oklahoma

Thanks again for your great threads Eric! They help me a lot. I will get some photos of my presser bar and lift bracket later this morning. My machine doesn't have the part number 264527 (Tension Disc Slide) on it, and I don't see it listed anywhere in the parts list for the 111G156 machine. On the timing, I found the other thread, Singer 111W155 Timing/thread Issues, but I haven't read all of the way through it yet. My machine has a safety clutch on it, so the timing marks are on the shaft and a timing plate. I think I put the wrong set screw in the groove, so I'll change it and re-time. Depending on how the set screw holes are bored in the shaft collar, I could see how the timing could be off a half of a tooth or more if the correct set screw was not in the groove. CD in Oklahoma