koreric75

I will on some pieces, I have some economy tooling leather that was dry as cardboard, before doing anything once I cut out my piece I applied some olive or jojoba oil, not a whole lot, just a couple of light coats, let it sit over night, then I'll case the leather so what I need to do for tooling, before I dye it I clean the surface with deglazer or lemon juice or whatever I have that fits. Once that is done I'll dye it, depending on the project either dauber, rag, sponge or air brush. Here's a belt I did for my son, it's thinner for his band pants, but the black came out good. It was some 4/5 oz Tandy veg from a double shoulder I think...

Hmm, dunno on that one... Did you dampen the leather before the first dye? I don't know if that would make a difference, just curious...

Yeah, that too... What was kind of funny was how pissed I got at first. And how loud I was when I laughed my a55 off... And the funny looks... Those are great

Lol true enough...I didn't pay attention at first when I started watching, I was fumbling with my headphones at work so I came in about the part where you were saying here's what these patterns are really good for and folded it inside to keep spray of the inside!... I was like, that sumbich... Then I looked at the poster account and burst out, the captain have me a wierd look I agree, I think that area would be equally problematic with what I want to avoid...

You could try pyrography (using a soldering iron) and practice that... There are some techniques out there for rough side carving as well if you're just looking for practice... The coin purse is a good idea, a beer cozie or box for pencils etc, any 3d shape the catches your inspiration and it'll get you some stitch time and practice. You may discover something you would've never thought of

Thanks @JLSleather & @bikermutt07, I have one for a s&w k model, thought I was getting the 357 Magnum, but got the 38, not a big issue thanks to the great info and advice I've been reading over the past months. I will have the actual revolver in hand for this one, and it's not going to be molded as much as a pistol I think... I'm just not sure how the wheel would affect the draw, it'll stay in there, but getting it out... Lol. I haven't tried using them before but was thinking maybe a screw grommet setup like you'd see on kydex holsters to adjust tension. Since I have the k model blue gun I will see if I have a decent piece of leather left over and make one. The holster for the Magnum is a western style so mostly smooth outside with a skirt loop...p.s. I watched a great video today on airbrushing stain sunburst patterns... Lol, it was great, I appreciate anyone that takes the time to setup a camera and document a process and rely heavily on those for many projects. But...I really appreciate watching one where I don't get 10 min in and they're still sitting in front of the camera talking about what they are about to do and then a few seconds of work them back to the poster sitting in a different room talking about what they did and going to do.... Lol.

Awesome, that is a relief. I have the singer Co parts list downloaded, so I know what each part looks like and can find the name of it, just not where they go once all together... Lol. I take pictures of everything as I disassemble, and can get everything back where it belongs, was just looking for something like a maintenance or text manual with more info in it. I don't want to do something or not do something that could ruin the internals. I also noticed there are a few parts that changed between year models so interchangeability is another factor...I haven't found in the parts list any year identifiers, but have noticed a few special identifiers like material competition. Thanks again for the info on the needles, that'll get me started once it's cleaned up and I see if I can get a nice stitch line hand turning it.

Just checking to see if anyone out there has a mold gun for a Taurus 617?

I've seen this before, mostly on the Eco Flo high lighter/antique, but also on the water based dye, I found I needed to let it dry twice as long as I could stand before even thinking about resolene...I switched to spirit dye, and still let it dry real good, usually over night, then buff with a soft cloth to get and dust or left over dry color then very light coat of resolene... I'm guessing, but judging from the blue shark under, was this a highlighter?

Thanks bob! I've been so focused on needle length and etc, i hadn't thought ahead to when i actually want to put thread through it...lol. I've been using #69 bonded nylon thread for my wallets on my singer 15-91 with a size 16 needle and have only run into issues if the needle gets sticky from glue, i've since learned to be more patient after sticking pieces together...and before to let the bond dry more and then stick. I haven't found a sure fire way to say a size 16 needle will work with #69 tho, other than the method you described, I've had needles out of the same little pack that one would work and one wouldn't...could've been the thread as well. ps, @CowboyBob you wouldn't have any old documents or pictures lying around for this machine would you? one of the few videos i found mentioned yall, he sourced a welting foot and something else for his 78, but that was awhile back...

@leecopp @Ipschnug so i found a buy on ebay for some 16x100 needles, I'm going to see how they look when they arrive and compare to the needle that was init when i bought the machine. It's a leather needle with the grooved shaft and chisel point, i tried reading the numbers on the dang thing but couldn't get enough light and magnification to see em...lol I still realize that i will have to find another alternative, as these were the only ones i have found, currently i have a few parts removed and soaking in vaporust, that stuff works wonders and is amazing. I plan to remove the chipped paint and rust from the bed and refinish that so it's somewhat smooth. I'm curious, from the build of the body, and the parts catalogue, I'm wondering if there was a setup for an oiler? there is a large hole with a smaller (threaded maybe) hole in the middle back that runs to the rotating assembly underneath, i'll snap a photo of it and post later. I guess it could be some sort of access for the lifter as well but haven't figured it out yet. There aren't alot of info pics out there or IPB that i could find (illustrated parts breakout showing where the parts go on/in the machine).

Good morning all, i figured this thread isn't too old to post in, i just picked up a couple of singers from a sale site for $50. One is a 306K in table, and the other is a 78-1, no table etc, it's also missing the foot lift bar on the back but has the spring and bottom mechanism. It rolls nice and smooth after a little cleaning and oil, I'm curious about the needle system 16x99/100...It looks like you're using the 135x16, I want to make sure i understand correctly on the adjustment screw referenced, the screw that holds the "needle bar" (Image attached) in place, are you raising/lowering etc? My other question is, table and motor/belt setup, what if any modifications are needed to use a servo/v-belt setup? The machine came with a piece of round leather belt but doubt it would be enough to reach under a table even for the old treadle... I will honestly not mind hand cranking it for wallets or small items, i'll have to figure if a servo is overkill. I'm really excited to have found these machines, I really wanted a 1206rb or a singer 111w for lighter leather, but after ~$2k for the cb3200 and accessories, mama said nope..., well technically she said, as soon as I've sold enough holsters, belts etc to cover the initial expense for the cowboy, and to cover the cost of another machine...go ahead...lol. On a separate topic, if you fellas don't mind the 306K looks like a quantum processing super computer compared to an abacus in relation to complexity to the 78...(redacted to add to a 306K thread) apologies. Forgot to add pics of the machine... https://imgur.com/a/GeuAD8K

yep, happens all the time...well not all the time, but sometimes a simple interruption or distraction can cause a missed step or train of though. In my case i WAS making something for a lefty, my little brother, I knew he was a lefty but when I set to cutting i had it all laid out and got pulled away. When I came back i looked at my project made sure it was still folding for a left hand wear. The unfortunate thing, I was so focused on folding the right way, I forgot about setting the clip for IWB...fortunately this was a test piece to practice dyeing with an air brush for a two tone...and the little bro didn't mind the mistake (free is hard to critique...lol). After this, i decided to put a small notebook on my bench. I use it before a project to jot down all the things pertinent to the project and check off steps as I go and use an asterisk or underline when i have to stop in the middle of a project so I don't get out of order or skip a step.

Click the online shop link under @Uwepost, online shop, however I don't see it on the mobile app, the desktop site does show it. https://uwe.store/collections/featured-items/products/ut441-flatbed-table-attachment-for-juki-tsc441-class

@3dreefer @3DReefer that is awesome! I was really curious about the stamps in a press and items like the throat plate... Does that fit in the 3200 as well? I know what you mean about mirroring text, had a couple vinyl hvt f##k ups trying to hurry and spaced it.

that is very nice...really like the card slots inside

@alpha2, great looking holsters, I as wondering how the geo grid would look when finished, turned out great! My next project is a western rig for a S&W 357mag model 19...I'm sure it'll be a learning experience...

@Uwe, will the kHF66 fit on the cb3200? I've been looking for something to use for leather strips to bind edges but have only found one video and no distributors... https://uwe.store/collections/clearance-40-off/products/khf66-tape-folder?variant=7012293869611 Thanks, and the flat top attachment tables are beautiful! https://uwe.store/collections/flatbed-tables/products/ut441-flatbed-table-attachment-for-juki-tsc441-class

great buy! Those come few and far between in this line...lol, but if you're patient and persistent it can be done...lol.

Lol @bikermutt07 , I have been using it some, comes in handy for the ends of the bags and thick stuff...I still use the singer alot, the 3200 will eat through the soft stuff. The 1st bag is some finished split that was a plain chocolate color on the grain side, the roughout turned out better than i expected. The 2d back is from that waxy pull up from @nstarleather I ordered a bit ago...I think i'm going to try that one roughout as well next, it has a neat pattern on both sides, but i really like how the pull up looks when bending the bag around.

So been chugging along, finished a holster or two and a couple of dopp kits, and a replacement belt for the oldest's favorite buckle.....next is a western style holster/belt...hoping i'm ready for this one...kinda fudged up on the holster for my little bro...forgot he's a lefty...

Yes, a mitered edge and what i would call a "slipstitch" shown below, difference is the leather edge is thick enough to not require a turned edge, but also so thick and on a corner or edge for a gusset that joining without a miter may make it very difficult to get the edges pulled tight without ripping out your stitches... looks like the pic link didn't work so here is the site i found that has a good close up of the idea http://www.squishycutedesigns.com/ladder-stitch/

I'd start out by finding something more pliable and same thickness that you can practice getting the angle right with an awl and focus on the stitch itself vs wrestling with that very thick and stiff looking leather, once you get that looking good use scrap pieces of the same type of leather, once you have those stitched looking good you should have the confidence of stitching your bag and not damaging beyond repair or having to redo all the work. Once the stitches are done I'm still trying to picture what the final look is assembled, but if skived at a miter, and making the stitch that goes between holes on the same side, when pulled tight you should only possibly see small holes on the flesh side...?

I shot them an email awhile back after reading a post that referenced their website. I got a response back the same day, and they were very helpful and sent out a box of samples with a couple goodies and a personal note inside, got it a couple days later. I am all for buying American, but I'm also all about supporting businesses that value customers, and treat people (regardless if i'm buying pallets of leather, or a few small pieces) the as such. I like the quality of the samples i received and will give them a shot when the need arises.

I'm also in Bossier, I plan on making a trip through that way this summer heading to see the folks in MO, I wouldn't mind carving out some space and meeting up along hwy65.