koreric75

Here's what i came up with, took a bit for me to get my head right for the geometry part of it, this inspired me to improve and alter. Forgive the ugly folds on the top flap, i got tired of trying to fold, hold and set the snap so i skived and glued the dang things down..lol One of my buddies at work actually mentioned he'd like something like this for in his car, but with a flatter bottom to sit in like a console...so now i'm working on one of those. I'll post here if it comes out.

Here's a liner i made last week for a wallet out of brown glazed pigskin, it's really thin but tough and doesn't stretch alot. notice only the center area is stitched at this point to hold the pockets to the backing liner. This has 2 layers back to back for the pocket backing, rolled the edges, and used some of the sb foot leather i recently recieved and the wallet is still only about .5" thick folded. You could do the same thing with only a center strip between the pockets, but then you have the flesh side of the pocket material showing when you open the bill fold area and this brown is ugly on the back, the black glazed has a nicer suede on the back and doesn't look bad at all. . Here a pic of the back after assembly, no stitch lines in the middle, only where i attached the liner. I chose to do the 2d line of stitching around the pockets only because i suck at sewing and miscalculated the distance from the edge of the backer i needed to come in to get a good bite on the liner. I made the pockets wide enough after rolling the edges to allow 1/4" and still fit a credit card. P.S. I did the stitching with my little singer 15-91 with #69 white bonded nylon with a 110/16 needle and max stitch length. You can see the marks from the feed dogs where it got tight coming up to the fold, I think next time i'll stop further from the fold and if it needs a few extra stitches i'll just use a small awl and hand stitch to the fold to prevent that, or measure right the first time and sew it from the back...lol. The presser foot didn't cause any marks, but i actually like the look of the stitiching when sewing with the liner side up vs backer side.

I use this for some of my thinner stuff, like liner and up to ~4oz with multiple patterns...Cricut explore air 2. It took a little trial and error, but i have a pretty good process down to get the right cuts and setting the right material settings for what i'm cutting.

That's a great idea, i have a piece that extends past the rear bolt hole and it kind of just sticks straight out unless it gets rained on...lol. the kydex molded backing would definitely fix that right up.

here you go... sheridan style leather carving patterns

Looks awesome! I know from doing mine, that lacing is a labor of love, I could never sell them as the labor on the stitching alone would be ridiculous. Only advice i have is a question, did you line the bottom with anything to prevent rubbing against the paint? I cheaped out on mine and put a soft felt under it, but wish i would've done something more luxurious like a really short wool liner or similar.

That is cool, really cool how you worked the leather cup into it vs metal.

@hurkoj Here is my rendering, I don't have an export function from the finishing software i use for die cutting, but i used the snip tool and put it on scale so when you print you can get an idea of how big it should be. I believe i made the square which will be the back 3"wX2.5"h. If you scale it on your printer you can adjust the size as needed. Let me know how it works for you, I mocked it up with cardstock, just haven't had a chance to cut out a piece of leather to test it, but will soon. coinpurse1.pdf

This shouldn't be too hard to make, give me a bit and i'll draft something up and post here once i've tested it. Looks like a single piece folded and secured only by the snaps so no stitching req'd.

Ditto/2d that, I had been trolling sale sites looking for a scrap piece of granite or quartz that i could pickup...pretty much had given up on it. Then bikermutt came to the rescue totally unexpected. Can't say enough how awesome it is to find someone that loves the craft and is so generous with advice and helping get folks started up, in a world of electrons for entertainment, it takes more effort to get the young'ns to see the satisfaction of doing something that doesn't come with instant gratification. I hear you, in arizona i lived an hour+ from Tucson, but had to make trips there for various reasons, always tried to line up my trips with a tandy visit...or line up a tandy visit with a trip? I'm not sure which...lol.

I wouldn't glue it down at all, I'd stitch it to the inside verticals of the pockets on the backside, then attach your pockets to the wallet back as you normally would, could you post a picture of one of these so we can see better what the issue is.

Here's an illustration of what i'm trying to say billfold-pocket gap fill.pdf

You could sew in a liner gap between the wallet pockets provided they are horizontal card holders, find a nice piece of lightweight liner then sew in when your closing your pocket sides or sewing to the liner. to reduce bulk, skive the edges you are sewing to the pockets. If it's only ~.5" i wouldn't glue it or anything, just let it flex when the wallet closes/opens.

works on black boots and low quarter too...lol

Here's a few of my recent week's work...My favorite is the cheapest leather with hand stitching. I like the way the red comes out in the mahogany with a little sanding... https://imgur.com/a/XTdDG- link to album also my first try at rolling edges...i used this to stiffen the pockets on the inside fold because there is a hidden pocket underneath each of the horizontal pocket sets.

These are awesome, putting the braided leather on my HD crash bars is what got me into leather working. Love the way a spanish ring know looks with a contrast between the top and bottom of lace, also love the mexican round edge braid, but it can be tedious.

http://www.singerco.com/admin-support/machine-serial-numbers/single-letter looks like prod began 1911, not sure what it's worth... more info on the site from a previous purchaser, seems like $450 comparatively to the original purchase price is a good deal (See Uwe's post on above link) http://sewingmachinenut.blogspot.com/2015/11/industrial-strength-singer-111w155.html

JLS try this instead... type this into the search on google, much better results.

I think if you have local access to inexpensive veg-tan that meets your quality control, i'd stick with it. A lot of the price with the big names probably comes from consistency, you should be able to buy W&C/Horween/HO, etc site unseen and have a reasonable expectation that it will be quality leather. This is huge for internet shoppers and businesses that want to order and have it show up ready to go vs going to the store and rummaging through. Kind of like buying lumber, you can go to your local "all-in-one" store and get 2x4's, but you have to go through 10 to find 4 or 5 that are straight.

I had an opportunity to pick up a few of the old big blue soldering stations that my old unit was tossing out...wish to heck i would've snagged a couple!

gonna follow this one, interested to see the responses...if it were me, i would consider some inexpensive lining for the inside if it's going to be leather to skin. if you want to keep it old skool, maybe a rabbit or other fur liner. There are tons of synthetic option as well. You can usually pick up a bag of remnants pretty cheap and patch enough together etc... If a liner isn't an option then maybe something like leather sheen or resolene? They are top finishes and help protect from water, not sure how they'd hold up to sweat on the flesh side of the leather.

You'll need ALOT of ventilation in a cargo trailer, for more than just the glue station. The laser cutter requires it, the airbrush station, etc...upper and lower ventilation ducts and i'd consider if you're going to have power in it, an exhaust fan of some sort. I'd also consider a station with a wall mounted or under cabinet shop vac for dust collection near the sander/cutting area. Lighting is going to be important as well, I like the long desk lamps for spot work, i got a couple of the type that swivel and extend so i can use the same one for two stations. Overhead natural light is nice to have when doing detail work and painting/staining to get a good look at color. LED and florescent really skew the color of dyed/buffed leather. That's just a couple of ideas off the top of my head, i like the etrack idea, i put some in my enclosed motorcycle trailer and it really helps with flexibility. Try to keep your bases with-in the range that will afford swapping and reconfiguring, not matter how much time and thought you put in initially, you'll probably realized you prefer x station where y station because of z etc...

You could put rivet posts in the stiffener before padding and covering with material, then apply the caps on the other side...just what i would try if i wanted to make something like that. These are amazing, i can't imagine how tedious it must be to get them all lined up and then sewn together perfectly.