koreric75

well that didn't last long...lol

That is awesome! I've been really wanting to add a 3d printer to my workshop, as well as a laser cutter/engraver, oh and a cnc for wood and metal...lol. I just need to hit the lottery now and seal the deal. I will check out fusion 360, I've been playing with artcam free version to design cutouts for cnc (for when i eventually get one) figured since it's free i can work in that and learn how to build the designs well before getting the machines so i don't waste too much material in the beginning. For the corner piece do you think you could've used a piece of wood and a router bit to get the same? I'm curious about the accuracy for the 3d printer vs this method, also if you were to fudge one of the measurements slightly have you tried tooling the finished product, i.e. sanding, routing, cutting etc?

I have had the same problem, great idea! I know what i'm going to do today...lol, plenty of scrap lying around for this. @ComputerDoctor Great looking holster! I also wondered how or if you are able to get rid of the remaining grid marks for the geo stamping, or do you tool over the center to cover it up?

2d what matt said, the belt/strap end templates would work, if you use it alot you can always have someone custom build a mallet punch die for that shape, but that can get expensive.

No problem, hope it works out for you.

Hey Joseph, I gotta head over that way next week to solar-leather to pick-up a machine (hopefully), If you're anywhere near Bossier/Shreveport I could grab it for you on the way back.

beautiful rig, I miss being in AZ, was only there a few years, but really enjoyed the south west climate and people.

Nope, I do it just like I put in the post, the heavy piece is the front of the 50/50, the back is made up of two layers of the thinner leather, only the inner thinner leather gets shape in the 50/50 part, if you notice in the pics from the album, the stitch lines for the slide and trigger guard are only visible from the front, the outer layer of the back gets glued and stitched along the outside and around the loop holes. Not saying it's how you should do it, just offering up my version of flat backed holster that is the same in materials and labor as my 50/50, so I don't need to worry about adjusting price, and still give the customer an option. Your holster is a good looking product, I do like the idea of making the outside back layer just a tad narrower to draw it in more, but hasn't been an issue unless it's in a flimsy belt. I also skive the inside of the loops on the back, and the outside of the loops on the front, that helps keep with that. @Lobo that was an awesome breakdown of economics in leatherwork, I'm still new and only do items by word of mouth and charge enough to replenish supplies etc. I hope to one day make it my post retirement income supplement. Going on 22 years active duty AF, and see the light at the end if that tunnel approaching quickly. It's the perfect time to learn and try to get my processes down, hasn't really delved too deeply on the business side, I copied your post to PDF as I'm sure I'll reference it often.

I've found the easiest most economical way to do this is to do the 50/50 with 8/9oz for the front and 5/6oz or 4/5oz if it's a medium-heavy hand for the back, mold like normal then use another stiff backer 4/5oz to make it flat across the back. Much easier than trying to split molds or mold a 100%, at least until i get a vac mold setup. But i just like being able to stitch the lines before hand. https://imgur.com/a/Mh9qf

You may find some of the craft aids or old doodle pages helpful... I'd just start playing around with a notepad and pencil and see what happens... Also, coloring books... Yep, they have tons of free pattern type pictures in them to provide inspiration.

If it''s ok, will see if i can draft something up, i was thinking of a jpeg that was the actual pattern cutout, for this i'll need to design in inkscape and then export as pdf or image file like png or jpeg etc for a printout and cut pattern.

Need more info, as indicated above... Also are you looking for contract work, freebies, advice etc?

If it's a print out pattern then jpeg should be fine as long as it's sized correctly, if you need the PDF to import into another program for cutting etc I can convert it depending on the format... As long as there are no copyright/proprietary issues with the design

that is awesome, very informative, like the clamp setup for the long strips rather than stopping every few inches to move it...bag turned out great and I like that closing clasp

I'm thinking even with the time offset, no response since June of 2017, and member hasn't been online since July of 2017....probably not going to get a response in 2018.

I think it looks awesome, love the color on that roo,. For your "zig zag" i would try using a longer stitch and less tension. The #x3mm should give you ~5 stitches per inch according to the website, just counting your stitches that wallet would be 10"W x 6"H....that looks like some really soft stuff, you can see it puckering where the stitches are tight. I've never tried to stitch something that soft on a wallet, when i have a problem with stitching or other techniques I'll see if i can find some scrap the same as the leather I'm using or something close to see if i can recreate what's happening and see what i can do to change the look of the stitch until I'm satisfied. It should only take a few inches of the leather folded over the same thickness to run a few different stitch tests. I can't tell for sure, but the inside stitch on the wallet backer looks like it came out differently than the liner, at least from the angle i see. I have at least 3 or 4 wallets in a drawer at my workstation that I miscalculated or just didn't like the end result, so far i've taken one apart and reworked parts of it to see if I've learned a technique that could fix whatever i didn't like about that particular item. I'm an IT guy as well, as well as previously a maintenance technician, and I use troubleshooting methods in just about everything I do, I find sometimes this craft has my brain rolling smoke more than my day job...lol. Keep 'em coming, looking forward to seeing more.

I forgot to add, i was working on a wallet with some low grade economy veg and it had alot of raised bumps on the grain side. I didn't realize it until after I had dyed and finished and ran my fingers across it. I decided it would be as easy as sanding some wood down but after i hit it with some sanding i actually liked the look i got. I used fiebings mahogany and when i sanded the tops of the raised areas really started showing the red through so i lightly finished sanding the rest of the area, and then resealed it!

I liked it, i have done woodworking in the past and as i began to understand what i was trying to do with a burnishing agent/tool I figured sandpaper would be good to get edges even, and have used it as a fix for when my edger had slipped or skipped a spot rounding off corners. I also use it after a first coat if i'm using edge dressing on leather wallets that don't burnish well. Thanks for taking the time to post up a video, looking forward to more.

I'm looking for a S&W SD9VE if you have one, little brother wants a holster... @JLSleather when will these become available?

Next time we get together we could break out the tooling stuff, I have some "not western style" craftaids and such to use.

Cool, let us know if it works, like i said, i'm no sewing machine expert, but i can troubleshoot...if it's a consistent # stitches, every time, it sounds like something mechanical, so the top stitch is what is loose and that is pulled through from the bobbin side when the hook passes by the needle and picks up the bobbing thread. Watching a few of @Uwe videos on timing and hook/needle positioning there are gears underneath that are adjusted to dial them in. I don't even have a walking foot machine yet but have been watching anything he's posted so when i do finally get one I understand the mechanics and theory. If you do a google search like this "site:leatherworker.net uwe cylinder bed loose stitch" it'll bring up posts related to what you're looking, also just search on his youtube... youtube https://www.youtube.com/user/UweXY/search?query=hook also @Wizcrafts has many informative posts about anything sewing machine... here's a link to a youtube vid that is interesting...I'm not sure if you have a walking foot or not https://youtu.be/hBblZzdEmcA

I've been getting these for my olfa 45mm, it cuts great and lasts for many cuts. @bikermutt07 and I cut up some sb footleather with it and it made it through, but could've used a good strop towards the end...lol rotary blades

what machine are you using as well as needle/thread size. I'm no expert but if i offer up something maybe one of the SME's will chime in and correct me...lol. With the attached picture it's hard to tell, but perhaps if this is the top side, you have a bobbin that wasn't wound consistently, or had a loose wind? The bobbin tension should resolve that though...hmmmm, 30 stitches at whatever stitch length you're using, maybe it's a spot where sewing a straight line, you move your hand position and maybe push a little or pull a little more? Again apologies, as I could only guess, how does the bottom side of the stitch look? did it miss//skip there as well?

I venture these are from a clicker, they're cut and pressed with the rolled edge/border look and possibly more than one at a time if he has a large working area for his press and the cutter die to do it. I'd want at least 3-6 pockets cut at once to do a wallet as well as the liner if used.