GatoGordo

From their Facebook page: Additional contact info http://www.sinabroks.com/ +82 31-352-8589 sinabroks.jin@gmail.com

TomE, that is exactly what I want. Thank you.

I want to make a handle like the one in the picture, but I am not quite sure how to do it. My guess is that there is some kind of core (wood or 3d printed). The leather is then cut into something resembling an O, folded over the core, and stitched. Does anyone have details regarding how to make this handle or a link to a video?

I use either an 8B pencil or a Stabilo All pencil.

I tried a silicon brush like the blue one in fredk's post. Using Barge cement, the brush only lasted a few days before I threw it out. It appeared that the solvents from the cement permeated the silicon to make it more flexible and the head would fall off the stick. This is the brush I purchased. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OCEBD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No. I saw your thread asking if anyone had any experience with it. I too was hoping for a reply.

As NDphung states, it comes down to personal taste whether you prefer the round Vinymo or the flat Tiger. Especially in the smaller sizes, I prefer the Vinymo. In the attached sample, all the threads are Vinymo #5 except the blue which is Twist 0.45 from Rocky Mountain leather.

If I understand the problem correctly, you are willing to stitch through the liner, but you are concerned with the lack of access within the tube. When I encountered this problem before, I cut my needles to length (left the eyes), filed the tips to get rid of the rough edges, then used needle nose pliers to manipulate the needles where my fingers could not reach. It was slow and tedious, but it worked.

I just finished a belt last weekend. What I did was to cut the belt, tape the back, stamp, dye, resist, antique, and resist. At this point, I removed the tape, glued on the back of the belt, and finally stitched the two together. I now have a belt with a nice looking outside, while the inside has no dye and no chance of staining my pants.

That is a big improvement in a short time.

While talk of chisels and threads is fun, it is not applicable to the OP's question. He needs to develop his stitching technique and his current thread and chisel set is just fine for that. Once he develops some skill, I am sure he will also develop a sense as to what type of stitching appeals to him whether it be long or short stitches, diamond, French, or round chisels, plastic or linen thread.

For each project I must create a set of sample stiches as above; just laying the thread across the leather is not enough. However, she almost always picks the black thread.

You are doing something backwards. If you notice, your thread is going from the top corner of the right hole to the bottom corner of the left hole while it should be the opposite. In other words, your holes are like: / / / / (correct) but your thread is like: / / / while the thread should be like \ \ \ As an example, here is a sample card I made for my daughter so she can pick the thread color for her new bag. I suggest you watch more YouTube videos to see how it is done. I had to watch several before it finally clicked. Also, as tsunkasapa pointed out, the most important factor is to be consistent. The needles must pass in the same orientation each time and must be pulled at the same angle and tension for each stitch.

$100 is for the roller. For the complete machine, the price is $480.

You can buy lead weights on Amazon. Five pounds for $19. https://smile.amazon.com/Arrow-Weights-Uncoated-Weight-perfect/dp/B001OAIQ4C/ref=sr_1_19?keywords=diving%2Bweights&qid=1642187785&sprefix=diving%2Bweight%2Caps%2C123&sr=8-19&th=1&psc=1

I use Fusion 360. Education to Inspire on YouTube demonstrates how to use it to create different leather patterns.

Vinymo thread is twisted. What I do is to give it a little back twist to open the thread and then pierce it just like you do with the Ritza thread.

I use an old claw hammer I had lying around. I used a random orbital sander to polish the face so it would not leave marks on the leather.

Back in August, Montana Leather sent an email announcing cowhide leather sides for $60. Today, I received their Black Friday sale email listing the same sides at $65. Be careful out there.

I have never heard of this. Please post some pictures so we can see how it looks.

Don't they need some elastic so they can adjust when bending and sitting?

Tube rivets. There is a special tool that splits the end to make it hold. https://www.buckleguy.com/tubular-rivets/

Swivel Eye Snap Shackle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MYWZX68/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07MYWZX68&pd_rd_w=9nlle&pf_rd_p=887084a2-5c34-4113-a4f8-b7947847c308&pd_rd_wg=WPuUM&pf_rd_r=NEK09QXH64TTWDN7ZWTR&pd_rd_r=7e460a98-a4f0-43a8-8f5e-bfebc8e915fb&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyOVFJUlBHOVhPMzNGJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTUxMzEyMTdYNzRQTVRTNDNJUiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTQ4ODIzMzRLQ1JHRE9LUlNaNSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

chrisash posted one last year in the Share your CAD files, STLs, etc thread that is nice. He included a lip on the base to catch drips.

While it is not gold, this kit includes a snap with the BSA logo: https://www.scoutshop.org/multitool-sheath-kit-7121.html