GatoGordo

chrisash posted one last year in the Share your CAD files, STLs, etc thread that is nice. He included a lip on the base to catch drips.

While it is not gold, this kit includes a snap with the BSA logo: https://www.scoutshop.org/multitool-sheath-kit-7121.html

I watched the video to understand your problem. Aaron uses a plastic coil zipper that does not have the directional teeth of the metal zipper. That is why his works. You can use the metal zipper by using two halves with the teeth in the same direction. Where the two halves meet could be hidden under the D-ring holder that Aaron shows on a second case at the end of his video. However, as the design of this case allows the pistol to come in contact with the zipper (repeatedly as it bounces around), you would be better off using the plastic coil that won't scratch.

Your second picture shows two problems. The zipper on the right shows the problem that Rocky Aussie pointed out. On the left side the bumps go up while on the right side, the bumps go down. The left zipper shows a different problem. While the bumps on both sides go the same direction, they are backwards with respect to the slider. When holding the slider with the closed side down and the open side up (as shown), the bumps on the chain should be facing up.

if you watch this video and skip to 11:32 Mr. Armitage shows how to stitch right handed.

Buckleguy calls them collar fasteners. Collar fasteners at Buckleguy

I live in California and use Angelus dyes which are alcohol based just like Fiebing's.

Depends what type of leather you need. For example, if you want a side of Herman Oak vegetable tanned leather, I would recommend Panhandle Leather. On the other hand, I just received an order of Italian vegetable tanned leather from Maverick Leather.

The stitch is a basic saddle stitch and the holes are marked as normal. As you point out, there are fewer holes on top than on the side. Luckily for us, Nigel Armitage shows how to do it although he does not explain what he is doing. In the attached video he starts the top at 4:45. You can see him mark the holes with the same spacing. The trick is to reuse the holes on the top. Look at 5:13 and you will see him use his awl to drill back to the previous hole on the top. By reusing the holes on the top, the stitching eventually works out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3Vux9RY9Vw

I have used olive oil for a few years now and not one item has gone rancid.

I have no idea if the difference is because it is rechargeable, or because one is alkaline and the other is nickel-metal hydride, or one is Kirkland and the other Panasonic. But, I do know there is a significant difference in how they behave in the Thread Zap II. Since you have some, give it a try and report back.

I, too, use the Thread Zap II. I started off using Kirkland batteries from Costco and, just like yours, they lasted a very, very short time. By short, I mean one session. I then switched to eneloop rechargeable batteries from Panasonic. It is not just that I can recharge the battery, but it lasts a long time on one charge. I recharge the battery less than once a month.

How about this for the briefcase? Classic Leather Briefcase With Accordion Gusset

Here is a corner radius card. It is similar to the ones offered by several vendors, except that it includes both outside and inside corners. corner radius card.stl

That is beautiful. Is the pattern your own or did you find it somewhere?

I've used Tandy Waterstain without problem and would recommend it. The work on the cover of the current issue of Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal was done with Waterstain so it appears even the professionals use it.

Southern California, USA

what are the dimensions of the leather?

First of all, you did not err by flipping the chisel when turning the corner. Actually, you can't. Prove it to yourself by holding your chisel, punch a set of holes, rotate the chisel by 180°, and then punch another set next to the first set. They will look the same. On you piece the holes go from upper right to lower left or //// as seen from the front. This occurs all around your piece and is easily seen if you look at the holes while rotating the leather to keep the edge on top. My guess is that the problem you do see comes from two sources. The tape has some thickness and allows the thin leather surfaces to move a bit with regard to each other. The holes look odd on the back side because you are cutting directly on a poly mat. This does not allow the chisel to penetrate very far past the leather and since the tips of the prongs are sharpened if they penetrate to different depths, they result in holes of different sizes. I suggest you try gluing the two pieces together and then place a sacrificial piece of leather between your work and the poly mat. This will allow the prongs to penetrate beyond the sharpened tips to give a more uniform hole.

Don Gonzales has a video that demonstrates how to center a name in the back of a belt.

I use the Thread Zap II. I tried using a simple BIC lighter, but that was unwieldy. I then tried my butane cigar lighter. That was fine unless I got too close to the leather and singed it. It also had problems in the corners as you also discovered. The Thread Zap II works for me.

Neatsfoot oil is from the shin and foot, not the hoof.

As far as I know, Tiger thread only comes in 500 or 1,000 meter spools depending on thickness. Rocky Mountain Leather Supply does sell it in 25 meter lengths, but it appears that they are the ones transferring the thread to the smaller spool. On the 25 meter spools I have purchased, the label clearly states Rocky Mountain Leather. Also note that when you purchase the 25 meter spool you are paying over three times the price per meter of thread. I have not seen it, but perhaps another supplier offers the same service with Fil au Chinois. For a smaller spool of linen thread, you can purchase Twist at Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. It comes in 80 and 90 meter spools depending on thickness. While I prefer Fil au Chinois, for special colors where I do not need a lot, I purchase Twist. For example, just yesterday I ordered a spool of Twist thread in electric blue. I have a special item I want to make with it, but I can't imagine ever using the entire spool (let alone 500 meters).

I started off with the Waterstain dyes and only had two problems. The first was that it did not seem to like being covered with Neatlac and the second was that I just did not like the yellow. Otherwise, I thought they covered evenly and gave great results. The only reason I switched to Angelus dyes was because the alcohol dye was easier to use to fill a background and it dried faster. Due to some of the comments on this forum, I ran a test and made six coasters. Three I dyed with Waterstain and three I dyed with Angelus (six different colors). All six turned out fine. Perhaps you can explain what problems you encountered with the Waterstain dyes.

I wish you had not deleted it as I thought it was a good approach to resolving the problem. Who knows, the OP may have eventually given it a try.