kgg

Have you thought of using Chicago screws as you can get them in various sizes (diameter and length). Like @fredk I would be more concerned with using AL but then again I have had Copper rivets turn green. kgg

My suggestion would be to cut your teeth using a flatbed machine with a standard inline Single fold binder attachment and Double fold binder attachment then experiment doing the edging on various scrap cloth and leather. For this you can buy inexpensive binding attachments off Amazon for about $10 to $15 and you will not need to change the feed dog or presser foot or the needle plate. Size your folder based on the width of the finish tape size you need. Example: 10mm fold over i) you need a 20mm tape and a Single fold binder attachment tape to get you approximately 10 mm fold over on fabric (depending on thickness of fabric)with a raw edge. ii) you need a 40mm tape and Double fold binder attachment tape to get you approximately 10 mm fold over on fabric (depending on thickness of fabric)with a raw edge. The most important thing I can say is make sure that the material you are trying to edge stays snug up against the tape in the folder and the space between the needle / presser foot and the edge of the binder is keep to a minimum. Slow sewing to maintain contact in the binding attachment will help prevent binding tape wonder. I have a set of the 90 degree binder attachments that I never use. I use the inline style (Single & Double fold ) binding attachments (1/4" to 3 1/2") on both my flatbeds and cylinder arm machines. For what I do I never have found the need to change the feed dog or needle plate to do binding on a cylinder arm. As a note: The main advantage a 90 degree binder attachment has over the inline is the ability to do tighter turns. kgg

I think you need: i) the right size of folder for the size of binding tape, ii) the folder has to have the correct size opening / pathway for that thickness of binding tape, iii) the correct amount of back tension on the binding tape.

Nicely done. kgg

Personally I would remove the cotter pin on the catch arm pivot point, the catch arm that catches the side of shaft and see what going on. Maybe the hole in the larger piece at that point has worn the pin or the hole in the larger piece has been enlarged. What do you have to lose? kgg

Here is a decent video on how the safety clutch works. ( If your machine will not reengage as @CowboyBob has suggested due to parts being seized I would suggest removing it and soaking it in diesel for a day or so then oiling it. If it still will not work either replace it or as a very last resort tack weld it in place. If you tack weld it in place you will not have a safety and if you jam the machine up you probably or more then likely going to damage / destroy other internal spots. kgg

Nice you should get good use of it. kgg

Yes, when my eyesight was good enough. When I was a member we had access to all military small arms (semi and full auto), ammo and training. Back then the DCRA competitions were limited to military ( commonwealth countries only), Canadian police forces and DCRA members. The DCRA was limited to military, ex military or reservists and police. All firearms and ammo had to be military compliant and no scopes. I am surprised you managed to get across the border without some of those pretty silver brackets. kgg

Nice old iron. Others have given good advice. My only comment is finding the boat type bobbins can at times be difficult so don't loose / damage the one you have in the machine. What is the going price roughly these days??? kgg

I see a lot of wasted overhead space. I'm sure you could figure out how to hang stuff from the ceiling. I see you have what appears to be a Dillon RL-550C. Dillon makes really decent presses, you should get excellent results. I have 5 Dillon presses for my other addiction 1-RL 550c, 1-XL 750, 3- Super 1050. kgg

Nicely done. kgg

The pin usually has a larger diameter on one side and by the looks of the pin you tried to knock it out the wrong way. I would try knocking it back, then cutting the damaged section off of the pin and use a drift punch to knock it out the other side. In the end you may wind up drilling it out. A 3" nail will work as a replacement pin. kgg

Not uncommon. What I would do is: i) remove the pulley BUT mark it's position on the shaft as it is easy to put it back wrong and you will be out 180 degrees. ii) check and see if there is a high spot in the groove. Depending on findings you may have to lightly grid it. But this could be as simple as reinstalling the pulley not as far in on the shaft as it's original position. It could have been installed to far in at the factory or by the guy you got it from. Don't forget to lightly oil the shaft or the groove in the pulley. kgg

Chances are what oil came with the Consew was Sewing Machine Oil like Lilly White. Sewing machine oil is not 3 in 1 oil. I know I am the odd man out on this point but I never use sewing machine oil in any of my new or used sewing machines. I use a combination of synthetic motor oil and synthetic transmission oil. The amount of each varies depending on whether I am flushing a machine or just normal oiling. kgg Good one. I like that. kgg

I would forget about what the manual says about oiling locations until you are sure that everything is oiled properly. I would give it a good bath in synthetic oil to get oil in those bearings and all the places where metal rubs against metal and get any manufacturing debris out of the machine. I usually flood a new or new to me machine just to make sure there is oil everywhere and any garbage is gone. It can be messy but it is worth it in the end. kgg

Yes and no. It comes down to your particular situation. However I do agree with the cheaper 3D filament printers the filament can get clogged when the nozzle size is to small for the speed or the filament type or using cheap filament can be a problem particularly with printers that don't have monitoring or give you notification of problems. I rarely do overnight prints as I still don't like leaving 3D printers unattended just in case. In my case I just didn't want to deal with fluid. Very doubtful. This comes down to what type of 3D printer is being used and it's speed capabilities. That is the beauty of all 3D printers do your design, ship file to printer and go do something else. If you are using .stl you have to do another software step but if your printer is capable of accepting .step then it is just a straight export. I do totally agree when doing certain items like DnD figures a resin will give better print quality / detail but the gap is closing. kgg

I have two types: A) with a large wheel: the dimension according to my mic. Large Wheel: a) Center of screw to center of screw on arm is 1.435" ( 1 - 53/128", 35.9mm). b) Wheel Diameter is 1.236" ( 1 - 15/64", 31.4mm) Small Wheel: a) Center of screw to center of screw on arm is 1.435" ( 1 - 53/128", 35.9mm). b) Wheel Diameter is .8745" ( 7/8", 22.21mm) Body is the same, length is the same just the wheels are different diameters. kgg

Would these work???? kgg

Yes I use my 3D printer ( Bambu Lab x 1 Carbon ) for belt hole guides, stamps, table top attachments for Juki LS-341 and Juki TSC-441 clones, binding attachments, templates, hand press guides, molds for wet forming to name a few and on various other prototype items before turning it into a piece of equipment. I find 3D design and printing opens up avenues where something isn't available, it's more cost effective to 3D print or both. Stamps why pay $50 for a stamp when you can do it for 50 cents or less. kgg

Why not just cut to the chase and buy a better brand of needle like Schmetz or Groz-Beckert needles??? Personally I have tried most brands and can honestly say that Schmetz needles have never given me any problems in any of my machines. I would say the Organ needles are a more budget-friendly alternative and cost about 50 percent that of Schmetz needles with Groz-Beckert somewhere in between. kgg

I agree. Personally I don't saddle stitch or otherwise hand stitch not because of funds but I just don't have the temperament. That for me was a major factor for not purchasing a one armed bandit (Tippmann Boss or Cowboy Outlaw). I just couldn't see myself pulling a lever for ever stitch let alone saddle stitching. kgg

True. I checked and searched the Organ website and couldn't find any info on the DP x 17D. I would drop them an email and ask for info. kgg

If you are fairly mechanically inclined it may work as long as you are aware of it's limitations and probably lack of product support. Definitely worth a look see. kgg

The photo of the Singer clone appears to be sorta kinda like the Singer 29K71 short arm, small bobbin, with side wheel. What is the asking price for this clone ( probably made in China). Info from this website: ( https://www.siruba.co.uk/Singer 29K Instructions.pdf ) MACHINE 29K71 (Was 29K53) End of cylinder bed is 1 inch wide and 7/8 inch deep. Space at right of need1e 12- 1/4 inches. Diameters of belt grooves 2-7/8 inches and 4-7/8 inches. MACHINE 29K72 End of cylinder bed is 1-5/32 inches wide and 1-1/16 inche5 deep. Space at right of needle 17-1/2 inches. Diameters of belt grooves 3-1/4 inches and 5.1/2 inches. Large Bobbin. MACHINE 29K73 End of cylinder bed is 1 inch wide and 7/8 inch deep. Space at right of needle 17-1/2 inches. Diameters of belt grooves 3-1/4 inches and 5-1/2 inches. kgg

Not really unless you dump the clutch like in a standard transmission truck. kgg