kgg

In my area I owe one of the smallest properties, 120 acres with 250 acres of crown land attached to one side. I probably only use about 10 or so but to have a dog boarding kennel in my township you need 100 acres. The closest neighbour is about 1 mile away. You will go through a brief period of withdrawal just like any other bad habit. Ease back and treat it as want not as a necessity. You just got to cut the apron string. kgg

To me I think it probably has more to do to a individual machine problem then a manufacturing problem as a result of wear, over‑tightening/under‑tightening, or a damaged screw or clamp. If you are able to check the machine inspect the needle‑bar clamp and screw for wear and or other damage like a buckle needle bar, stripped screw / clamp and check that it is tightened properly and then if all is good re‑time the hook‑to‑needle as per the service manual, if not replace damaged parts then re-time. The PFAFF 2545 is manufactured in the P F A F F Industriesysteme und Maschinen GmbH factory in Taicang, near Shanghai, China. My experience: The Juki DU-1181n is a decent walking foot machine but the quality is nowhere near that of my Juki DNU-1541S. The difference is the 1181N is made in China and the 1541S is made in Japan. kgg

I have on occasion had this happen but only when I am sewing leather using multi layers say 6 oz that has not be glued together first. My thought is it was probably my fault because: I didn't hold the layers tight enough together so a layer moved slightly or the needle wasn't the correct size for the thickness leather I was trying to sew or the needle bent slightly when I tried to push the sewing thickness limit of both the machine and or the needle. I have stop using the servo motor to do reverse stitching and just handwheel the machine in reverse for those couple of stitches. Also if you do the typical forward few stitches then reverse to lock and then continue to the seam you are basically have a lot of bulk in those holes. To help reduce that bulk start and reduce possible cutting of the thread set the needle in about 3 stitches and Reverse then go forward. Another factor is the individual machine, maybe the forward and reverse are not properly setup. A simple check to that is put a piece of paper or cardboard under the presser foot and without thread in the needle do a few stitches forward and then do a reverse. If the machine is setup properly the needle will fall into same holes made when forward stitching. kgg

Interesting, I'm just finishing two 6' dog leads one is 1/2" and the other is 3/4". The 1/2" lead only had the interior of the hand and the fold over section at the clip end glued but was still sewn along the edges with V138 bonded nylon. The 3/4" x 6' was two pieces of 6.5 oz glue together and sewn along the edges along the edges with V138 bonded nylon. How I glued: i) I have a slightly raised metal edge along the edge of my work table that I push the strap up against ii) I use a small piece of 3/4" x 3/4" x 10" long aluminum angle that I push up against the other edge of the strap. iii) I apply contact cement to the strap basically in 10" sections as I move the 10" AL angle along the length. w and let dry then reapply a second coat of contact cement. iv) Then I hang the strap of the door to the room to dry. v) Wipe the metal edging and 10" AL angle so there is no excess contact cement. vi) Lay the second piece up against the raised edge and apply contact cement and hang the strap over the door. vii) Clean metal edges and apply a second coat to the first strap. Rinse and repeat for the second strap. Let dry hanging over door. I do two coats as I have found the first coat gets sucked into the leather and sometimes doesn't bond properly. viii) Clean metal edges and lay a strap up against the work table edge. ix) Apply second strap to the first strap in small sections while pushing both straps up against the work table raised edge, like one inch or less lengths. x) I then use a 4" metal roller to roll the complete strap to get rid of any possible bubbles. I robbed my roller from the kitchen draw, I guess it was supposedly used for baking. xi) I then have a flat piece of metal that I put on top of the now freshly glued strap and clamp it down for about 24 hours to cure under pressure. xii) I then sew along the edges, about 4 or 5mm in, with V138 bonded nylon. I do like that idea and will try incorporating it on the next one. kgg

I am going to assume you are going to basically do the full length of the belt. I wonder if you moved up to a thicker leather that you may not need a inner reinforcement. My daily belt is two layers of chrome tan 6.5 oz glued and sewn with V138 about 4/5 mm along the edges. It shows no bowing up in the typical back section. After a little digging Nexbelt uses a " super-high-density microfiber " material so from that what I found that may help: For a super-high-density microfiber belt stiffener, products often use a material simply referred to as "high density microfibre" or "SHC". This material is a non-woven fabric made from ultra-fine polyester fibers engineered for superior support and structure in leather goods, including belts. Recommended Microfiber Materials Specific products are available on the market that are well-regarded for their performance as a stiffening core. SHC (Super High Density Microfibre): This material comes in various thicknesses (e.g., 0.45mm, 0.6mm, 0.8mm) and is specifically recommended for use in belts and straps. It is valued for its strength and ability to provide a firm, stable structure. Microfiber Leather Stiffener Reinforcement Fabric: Described as "Italy leather fiber (super micro fiber)", this material is used in high-end branded bags and can also be used for belts. It has a texture and feel very close to real leather, making it an excellent choice for a refined finished product. Alternative Stiffener Materials While microfiber is a great option, especially for a leather-like feel, other non-microfiber materials offer different properties depending on the desired stiffness and application. Texon: This is a very stiff and strong board-like material, typically used for extreme structure such as the bottoms of bags, but it is suitable for applications requiring maximum rigidity. Salpa (Bonded Leather): A natural material made from milled leather scraps and natural binders, Salpa provides general reinforcement and is popular for lining belts, offering a good balance of firmness and a natural feel. Nylon or Polyester Webbing: For very heavy-duty, tactical applications, a core made from super-high-density nylon strapping can be used, with some even incorporating extremely strong fibers like Dyneema® (known as the world's strongest fiber) for maximum strength and minimal stretch. The best "super-high-density microfiber" material is typically marketed as SHC (Super High Density Microfibre) or as "microfiber leather stiffener". When choosing, consider the required thickness and the desired final feel of the belt, as these specific microfiber products offer excellent structure while maintaining a soft hand. kgg

No problem. I've had one for about 5 years. kgg

Temu: https://www.temu.com/ca/1pc-nut--thread-checker-inch-metric-26-male-female-gauges-stainless-steel-14-inch-12-metric-thread-checker-g-601099524615655.html?_oak_mp_inf=EOfbjp2m1ogBGiA5ZWNhMmYwZDdjNzU0NDAzOTViNDEwNjIyZTM1MWViZCDflrjLwTM%3D&top_gallery_url=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.kwcdn.com%2Fproduct%2FFancyalgo%2FVirtualModelMatting%2F1bd1d6e014704d792beadf80a72c5b49.jpg&spec_gallery_id=2025093704&refer_page_sn=10032&refer_source=0&freesia_scene=2&_oak_freesia_scene=2&_oak_rec_ext_1=MTY4OQ&_oak_gallery_order=2093112306%2C160354140%2C2045537314%2C271545300%2C1416541352&search_key=nut and bolt thread checker&refer_page_el_sn=200049&refer_page_name=goods&refer_page_id=10032_1769953176822_anhrd4lta2&_x_sessn_id=3raljzhp3j Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009944813944.html?algo_pvid=598db5f1-c508-430c-ba85-99afda6fd421&algo_exp_id=598db5f1-c508-430c-ba85-99afda6fd421-6&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"7"%2C"eval"%3A"1"%2C"fromPage"%3A"search"}&pdp_npi=6%40dis!CAD!28.44!22.09!!!142.79!110.89!%402101c44f17699531248835014ee51d!12000050647125799!sea!CA!0!ABX!1!0!n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A18b3922%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895%3BpisId%3A5000000197831932&curPageLogUid=ItEaF9KDGd9H&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A|x_object_id%3A1005009944813944|_p_origin_prod%3A kgg

Here is a great article on what machine or machines you will need depending on what you want to sew. In a nutshell if you are doing: i) Belts and bags a cylinder arm machine similar to the Juki LS-341 or Juki LS-1341 or clones would be a good choice with a flatbed attachment. ii) Holsters you will need a Class 441 similar to a Juki TSC-441 or clone. What is your budget??? kgg

@catskin @friquant Here is a cheap quick nut and thread gauge that costs under $17 CAD ( $12.50 USD) delivered off Temu and Aliexpress. kgg

Interesting. Finding bolts that fit properly for sewing machines can be a chore at times since a lot has to due with whether the manufacturer is using standard bolts with standard thread pitches or they are using a particular manufacturers specific bolt thread setup like Singer and to lesser extent Juki and Juki clones. Sometimes you can sorta kinda get a Imperial bolt to fit in a metric hole but most times you have to re-thread the hole to get a proper fit. Most machines these days are made using the metric system (International System of Units - SI). The problem of trying to match bolts sizes tends to be a more of a problem in the US as most of the world uses the metric system (International System of Units - SI). Even in Canada and to some extent the US it is not that uncommon to see three systems ( the Imperial, the Metric and the America ) of measurement being used. kgg

I threw in towel about 22 years ago and the first thing I done was turned off the computer and threw out the cell phone (it "fell" out of the truck on the highway). Never touched either for 3 years. Done what we were planning for five years, move to another province, build a new house, opened a dog boarding kennel and showed our dogs. A far cry from my engineering background. Should have done it earlier. I do things that interest me, no deadlines, no boss except for the wife. The hardest part was figuring out my interests and how to combine them, like 3D printing, leather, sewing machines, metal welding, metal lathes etc. which are all interlinked. Remember working for the man is just a means to an end. One door closes and another opens. kgg

Not even close. The machine appears to have been repainted with the name tag also painted over. From the factory i) setup for binding ii) factory needle system was 134-35 LR iii) Max size of needle is a metric 100 (#16) iv) Max thread size is metric 40 (V69) Value: Unknown. If it was used in a commercial environment it may need unknown repairs so it would be wise to have someone check the machine over before purchasing. How much are they asking??? Most importantly what do you want / need to sew????? kgg

Looks like a Consew 206RB-3 from the 1970's. Based on exterior condition, wouldn't be my choice for that price. kgg

Lets face it, It ain't a hobby it's an addiction. Just depends on which rabbit hole you go down. The worst is buying a machine that will not do what you thought it would. I think a lot of use have done that at some point. No one machine will do everything. My personal thoughts If you are: i) sewing wallets and typical belts, a Class 341/1341 like a Juki LS-341 / LS- 1341 or clone with a table top attachment would be a good choice. ii) sewing thick / tough leather with V207 and above, a Class 441 like a Juki TSC-441 or clone or one armed bandit is needed. The thing a lot of people forget is if you buy a Class 441 machine the needle is basically the size of a 2 1/2" finishing nail which is going to punch a really large hole that may not be suitable for say a wallet. The 90 percent rule: Buy a new machine that meets 90 percent of your sewing needs / wants. For the other 10 percent buy a good used machine. kgg

An alternative to the class 441 machines like the machines you listed ( CB3200 and the Cobra Classes 3 and 4 ) would be the one armed bandits. Those that are currently available are the Tippmann Boss (~$1000), the Cowboy Outlaw (~$1500) and the Weaver Master Tool Cub (~$2150). kgg

The Techsew 2700 is a Juki LS-341 clone. I would use the engineering manuals or video's for the Juki LS-341 or LS-1341. kgg

Sorry to here that. I would post on ( https://www.kijiji.ca/ ). Post an advert of each machine with photo's and a realistic price. kgg

Since you ordered #18 needles order V69 which you get A&E thread as well as others from wawak,com. kgg

Simple answer, No. The difference of going from a fabric needle (135 x 17 ) to a leather point needle (135 x 16 ) is the tip of the needle. The fabric needle (135 x 17 ) will attempt to push a hole through rather then slice a hole in the material. You will have to check the top thread tension, bobbin tension and presser foot tension. Also a bonded polyester thread would probably provide better UV protection then Bonded Nylon thread. kgg

Here is a link to the actual Juki LS-1341 brochure which will give you the definitive comparison on all specs for the 1340 series machines. ( https://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/admin/pdata/filedata/332/ls1340.pdf ). If the machine was new yes. With used machines it could be iffy on the smaller thread sizes which will be an individual machine ability depending wear of internal parts typically whether it was a hobbyist machine or a machine that was used in a commercial environment. No, but I don't use threads less then V92. The only then is you have to change your top thread tension and bobbin thread tension when going from thread size to another, when you change to a different spool of thread, thread type and even color. Not going to happen that is why a lot of use have more then one machine. Machines for the most part setup to basically do one function. My thoughts: i) The Juki LS-1341 is basically a functional Juki DNU-1541S in cylinder arm form. The main concern I would have with the LS-1341 in thin material is the material being sucked down into the feed dog as the hole is fairly large. This may not be the best machine for your needs and maybe a Pfaff 335 or clone or a post bed machine would be better options as they are inclined towards smaller thread sizes. ii) How thick is the thickness material including folded over seams that you want / need to sew with what size of thread?? You really need to ask what was overhauled internally and externally for the machine, like timing belt, bushings, thread tensioner, thread guides, etc. What is the asking price for the machine. kgg

My thoughts: i) #20 needle is for V92 thread not V69. reference chart ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). An incorrect sized needle for the thread size can cause skipped stitches as the loop sometimes does not form properly which gives you skip stitches. ii) With a fabric backed material I would try a 135 x 16 x 18 to cut through the vinyl rather the 135 X 17 x 20 rather then punching through with an oversized hole. Think of it more like trying to punch a hole in piece of paper with your finger rather then a needle. The fabric needles are meant to push apart/separate fibres so as not to weaken the fabric where as the fabric on your vinyl is probably more for stability to help it from over stretching. kgg

Yes, the Cobra does come with a reducer which does allow for slower sewing and greater punching power due to the increased torque provided by the speed reduce. The cost for a 3:1 speed reducer, at least in Canada, is about $100 CAD. I have never owned any of the Cobra equipment but from my experience I had for a very short period of time a Consew RB206-5 that I hoped to replace my Juki DU-1181N with as it was supposed to be similar to the Juki DNU-1541S. It wasn't good enough to replace the Juki 1181N so I sold the Consew. Bottom Line, do an honest test using a sample of your stuff on both machines. You may have to send a sample to a vendor. I could not find a weight for the head of the Cobra 18 listed so you may want to call them keeping in mind the Juki DNU head alone weights 80.46 lbs (36.5 kg). kgg

I don't understand your question. Are looking to purchase this class of machine or ???? As a note the Class 18 is a clone of the Juki DNU-1541S and if you want quality build and stitch wise by a Juki but they are going to be expensive. If you looking to buy a machine what are you planning on sewing, thread size, thickness of material??? kgg

Can't see the video's with a message of unspported format and MIME type found. kgg

Depends. I use JoJoba rather then neatsfoot oil. What I do is oil the flesh side first using an airbrush to get constancy over the area, let sit, maybe re-oil, then airbrush dye on, let sit and airbrush oil on again. If I'm dying the other side I will follow the same process. I found the grain side will suck up more oil or dye much faster and suck then the flesh side. kgg