kgg

Like @dikman I did a similar search for servo motors and I find that I can get a Brushless for about $150 CAD or a Brushed for about $200 CAD. As I don't need or want a Brushless servo motor or any of the additional features the documentation needed for a Brushed servo motor is so basic. 5 easy steps: 1. how to install the servo motor and mechanical linkages, 2. install belt to the machine or belts if you have a speed reducer, 3. set speed by turning the speed dial, 4. plug it in to a wall outlet, 5. turn power switch on and hit the "go" pedal. If at some point a Brushed servo motor fails you typically have to replace the servo motors fuse and brushes. If a Brushless servo motor fails chances are you replace the complete servo motor setup. kgg

The part # you are looking for is B1525-053-0A0. An original Juki part will have the needle guard while a lot of after market ones will just be the presser foot. If you contact a Juki dealer and ask for the complete presser foot assembly you will get it with the needle guard. Another alternative is to buy a Needle Finger Guard off places like Amazon. Example: ( https://www.amazon.ca/YICBOR-Sewing-Machine-Brother-Machines/dp/B08ZCF899N/ref=sr_1_17?crid=UO5IAKRG7BVO&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.2fLw6Era9Ry_EQb4ctlNR0XMnKd9cxPTyATq6kljrRUsFAsAY60K0rL24TCK1bhBM71KGBRj_bN5NkMMVaN4cKrL0Ttl1dPFMzVojOWsPo7wY9ruXUERvP51UQ9Z6Ws0-PC59GirIwKvznJSxcsbXhB2D9FV30xEjQtKF_ez23X6JfLEHT1L_DGHy5IyTM5Gud5gVQ5sQeej1YO1MFbOCaz30Vq3Omf80-yk9hkngzDM7Zv7Kht2CXjrZ-tNUZxKCzXU_reMtpUjrD4o9CfPCmsvX480rlFWypy8fpcw3Lw.v6_DjuKOKwrz96P_yooYKPm6sQqqEQ2RE5efMMrS0UU&dib_tag=se&keywords=needle+guard+for+Juki+presser+foot+for+juki+ls-341&qid=1751713038&sprefix=needle+guard+for+juki+presser+foot+for+juki+ls-341%2Caps%2C317&sr=8-17 ) kgg

I totally agree. I think as a cheap old geezer the hobbyist is looking for simple operation, reliable and most importantly cost effective. I can count on one hand the number of times I have changed the speed on my servo motors. Once I find the comfortable "spot" that is where it stays. To the average hobbyist cost is always king whether it is a complete machine setup or a servo motor. Why?? Just build simple good working motors for the majority of your customer base that are cost effective. kgg

Need a basic servo motor that has: 1. Has to have excellent low speed startup. 2. Has to have a 12 coil servo motor or at less 9 coils if it is a brushless electronic servo motor. 3. Give the customer the option of a Brush or a Brushless servo motor. i) If the customer chooses a Brushed servo motor if the speed dial was able to be mounted on the front of the table rather then on the motor's body they would be perfect particularly for new users. ii) If the customer chooses a Brushless servo motor it should be just a simple matter of being able to flip a toggle switch like @Cumberland Highpowerhas suggested rather then having to disconnect the needle positioner plug from the electronic control panel or having to go into the menus. I prefer the brushed rather then brushless servo motor. No fancy menus or electronics, no needle positioner just set the max speed hit the " go" pedal and sew. I have two brushless servo motors, one on a LS-341 clone and one on a TSC-441 clone and two brushed servo motors, one on a Juki DNU-1541S and one on a Juki du-1181N. The needle positioner on both the Brushless servo motors have been Disconnected. The brushed servo motors are much simpler to use for new people and are a lot easier diagnosed when a problem arises. 4. All new features like "Jog" should be options that the customer can choose to purchase if needed. I follow the "KISS" rule. To reduce startup jump, more controllable sewing speed. However even through you get increase torque it from adding a speed reducer it should be not used as the main reason for installing one as you don't want to over stress internal parts on some class of machines. I disagree. Push the "go" pedal and sew. kgg

The thread size for a #12 needle would be probably something like V33 (M80, Tex 30) range. Most of the Juki LS-341 clones will handle down to V46 (M60, Tex 45). True Juki's will handle down to V33 (M80, Tex 30). That said they are not going to be happy and will require a lot of adjustments as V33 has such a low a breaking strength of less then 2 lbs (.9kg). My opinion is that the Juki LS-341 and clones are better suited for a minimum thread size of V69 but prefer V138. kgg

From the information I have seen: The p335vb is a binding machine that has a max thread size of V69 which is the cross over thread size from domestic sewing thread to industrial with a breaking strength of 11lbs. The 18L can take a max thread size of V138 with a breaking strength of 22lbs. I agree with @RockyAussie neither are the right machine. If you have only one source for new machines the one I would suggest looking at is their Typical TW3-341 which by the looks of it is a clone of the Juki LS-341. Also consider a used brand name like Juki in the Class 341 / 1341 or import a Juki LS-341 / 1341 clone from China. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

A couple of questions and suggestions. 1. What size of thread are you using?? 2. What size of needle are you using?? There is a good needle to thread chart: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Going around a tight corner you may want to hand-wheel through and after each stitch raise the presser foot ever so slightly. Just enough to turn the leather a touch. I do this with the needle just on it's way up from the bottom dead centre position. That allows the needle to hook the bottom thread otherwise you will skip a stitch. The tension on your top thread is not high enough to pull the bobbin thread into the leather so you get a seam like your last photo. Suggestions: 1. Check you are using the correct needle for the size of thread you are using. 2. Check your top thread path from the thread spool to the eye of the needle is correct. 3. Suggest you first check the bobbin thread tension, do a drop test. 4. Increase top thread tension as needed. Use scrap leather in the same thickness as your project and do a few four to six inch seams. 5. At the start of your stitching hold both threads for the first three stitches and while still holding the threads reverse back to lock the threads then do your seam otherwise there is no back tension on the top and bobbin threads. You need a thread anchor point otherwise you can get some funky stitching as the thread tensions will vary. 6. Back stitch the end of your seam to lock the stitching. kgg

Earlier today (~6:30 am Ontario time) the forum was trashed with spam but seems to be back up and running properly. Thanks to whoever fixed the problem. kgg

@mbnaegle I can say I really enjoyed reading the history around these old machines. kgg

@PastorBob The ones similar to the Richards can be had off Temu for about $4 USD. The Richards which according to this article ( https://www.apparelnbags.com/blog/where-are-richardson-hats-made/ ) are made in China, Bangladesh, and Vietnam anyway. kgg

That is why a lot of us have more then one machine as some machines are a lot better then others at certain things. There is no one size that fits all situations and sometimes you need two machines to do one item. The closest all rounder for most are the Juki LS-1341 (or clone) with a table top attachment. Is it possible for your items to skive the edges down to reduce the thickness of the leather????? Let us known what you decide on. kgg

First off using Weaver Leather Thickness Chart ( https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/pages/leather-thickness?srsltid=AfmBOoqzN2JPG7btuXxjAntVnhbq3NjzasVYzvuTwaMaLRu6Y0adRV4J ) 16 oz of leather is going to be 1/4" (6.36mm) and add another 2 oz you are going to be at .281" ( 7.14mm). The max the spec say is 3/8" ( 9.53mm) which is going to give you less then 3/32" (2.39mm) wiggle room. That for me would knock that particular machine out as I would think you would always be pushing it to or near it's max. which I figure would reduce life expectancy. I would suggest looking at other alternatives maybe a Class 1341 cylinder arm machine similar to the Juki LS-1341 (or clone) but I don't do footwear. The Cobra Class 4 is NOT a post bed machine it is a cylinder arm Class 441 clone of the Juki TSC-441. These machines are meant to sew such items as holsters. They use a needle that is visually almost the same size as a 2 1/2" finishing nail. They weight in at about 125lbs for just the head alone verses a LS-1341 at 82 lbs. I would suggest: 1. read 2. either visit / telephone / sending a sample of what you want to sew to maybe someone like Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines ( www.tolindsewmach.com ). There is no one machine that will do everything. Buy a new machine that will do 90% of your items and get a second used machine to cover off the remaining 10 %. kgg

Yes typically they do. A example is I bought a new Juki DU-1181N during the China Cough for $900 CAD ( $650 USD ) now I see they are now about $2000 CAD ($1500 USD). kgg

After you read the article @AlZilla referenced. Consider my 90 % rule. If you are going to be doing 90 %of items that are: i) flat items like wallets and belts with a leather thickness of less then 3/8" get either a flatbed machine like a Juki DNU-1541S (or clone) or a cylinder arm machine with a flatbed table top attachment like a Juki LS-1341 (or clone) that way you can also sew bag type items. Buy New and look for a used machine that will cover off the other 10 %. ii) doing mostly holster type work get you really need a class 441 machine. Motorized like a Juki TSC-441 (or clone). Manual like a Tippmann Boss, Cowboy Outlaw or a Weaver Cub. These machines, motorized or manual, are meant for thick leather up to about 3/4", use heavy thread and use a needle that is the size of a 2 1/2" finishing nail. Buy New and look for a used machine that will cover off the other 10 %. What is your budget??????? Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

The problem that arises is when sewing multi layers like seams where seams cross etc. The more layers adds not only thickness but the layers can slip around when you are using a drop foot machine. No one machine will do everything. A flatbed machine is good for sewing flat items like belts / wallets etc. A cylinder bed machine is good for sewing items like bags etc. You can turn a cylinder bed machine into a flatbed machine by installing a flatbed table top attachment. The most common new industrial sewing machines for leather related sewing these days are compound feed (needle, presser foot, feed dog). I have a Juki DU 1181N walking foot machine for when I sew items that are less then 5mm (~3/16") thick and with thin thread (V69, V92) as my Juki DNU-1541S really hates thin stuff particularly if I use V69 thread and it has a tendency to want to suck fabric down into the needle plate. I would suggest taking a sample of your stuff to a brick / mortar store using the thread size you would like to use and give a few machines a go. As a note if the: i) Flatbed -- Juki DU 1181N would work for your stuff they cost about $1500 new. ii) Flatbed -- Juki DNU 1541S about $2500 and a clone like the Cowboy CB 1541S about $1600 iii) Cylinder Arm -- Juki LS-1341 about $5200 and a clone like the Cowboy CB 341 about $2400 A lot is going to come down to how thick your wallet is. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

I would run not walk away at that price. Buy something from a manufacturer that is still in business. Nakajima 321L is a needle feed machine and for leather work you really need at least a walking foot machine. The Nakajima 321L is what the old Juki LS-341 was based on, according to the info I have seen, with some changes. The first Juki LS-341's if I'm not mistake began in the early 1970's. From that the Nakajima 321L is going to be will over 50 years old. With the Nakajima sewing company being part of the Juki company since the 60's or 70's finding the different parts could be difficult. What are you planning on sewing???? kgg

I agree. kgg

According to the manual it will take a #26 needle. The needles will leave a large hole about the size of a 2 1/2" finishing nail. If you don't have a manual here is a pdf version. kgg 20190619115045364.pdf

Incorrect. They typically have a lower startup rpm but depending on operator skill, startup rpm, manufacturer you may require a speed reducer regardless of servo motor type. If you are going to be sewing leather the needles you will need are 135 x 16 x needle size. Your machine will come with a 135 x 17 x needle size for fabric. Here is a good link to a chart showing needle size versus thread size vs thread strength ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). Don't cheap out, buy brand name needles and thread. Always buy two spools of thread, one for the top thread and one for the bobbin. That way you can fill a bobbin while you sew without having to un-thread the top thread to wind a bobbin. kgg

Keep in mind: i) Items like belts / wallets are best done on flatbed like a Juki DNU-1541S or clone. ii) Items like bags are best done on a cylinder arm machine like the a Juki LS-1341 or clone. iii) You can turn a cylinder arm machine into a flatbed machine by installing a flatbed attachment. If this is going to be your only machine I would suggest seriously looking at this option. That is one style of speed reducer typically referred to as a box style. You can also get the more common pedestal style. Both have their pro's and cons but do the job, speed reduction. Here is a photo I copied from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/motors.html ) The motor shown in your photo is a brushed servo motor, good uncomplicated work horses. kgg

The safety clutch when it kicks in protects a lot of internal parts from getting damaged. Depending on how badly you screw up usually it is just a matter of resetting the safety and you are sewing again. If you jam the machine up and I think most of have at some point jammed a machine up the repair cost of the damaged parts will be be a lot greater then the $75 you "saved". As a side note my Juki DNU -1541"S" hates items less then 5mm thick and much prefers thicker items with V92 thread as a minimum top and bobbin thread size. Find another retailer one with experience doing leather work. What are the items you want to sew, how thick of leather and with what size of thread as a flatbed machine may not be your best option? kgg

Since you are in the US the Sailrite Workhorse is the same motor ( https://www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-Workhorse-Servo-Motor-110V ) at $299.95. The problem with any of the brushless servo motors is the high startup rpm's which is typically around 500 rpm and with both the Reliable and the Sailrite it is 400 rpm. This can create startup "jump". To help smooth out the startup "jump" of the brushless motors as well as slowing down the machine while giving more torque install a speed reducer pulley and replace the servo motor pulley with a 50 mm pulley. Typically the reduction is 3:1 (6" large pulley and a 2" small pulley). I would suggest you forget about the Juki DNU 1541 and purchase the Juki DNU 1541 "S". The Juki DNU 1541 has no safety clutch. kgg

To be 100 percent sure about the specs I would check with @CowboyBob he would know for sure and probably has a manual kicking around. kgg

Same as normal sewing machine oil like Lily White. kgg

The manual actually says 16.0 mm2/ sec. which is equal to 5W oil. kgg