kgg

Before getting your next machine you should post a new topic that your are considering XXXX machines to do your particular work. You will get the good, bad and ugly about the machine before you buy it. kgg

That is a very pretty table but seems impractical to me with limited usability for a cylinder arm machine more of a show piece. The drop leave end is nice space saving touch. I think when you are sat at the machine you will find that you are going to have to put one leg outside the left side table leg which probably is not going to be a comfortable sitting / sewing position. Also that beautiful hardwood swivel is going to be real pain in the butt, literally. The question I think is would this table arrangement work for the items you want to sew? If you plan on doing bag type work a cylinder arm mounted on a flat table like this one will not give the freedom as a "U" shaped or a table that mounts the machine so the cylinder arm overhangs the end of the table which gives clearance basically to the floor. From the photo of the motor it appears to have the standard triangle mounting arrangement as all motors, clutch or servo. A servo will give you better speed control that is much more quiet then a clutch, cheaper to operator as the motor only runs when you press the "go" pedal and provide better bottom end torque. I would suggest finding either a brushed servo motor or brushless servo motor. Like @canvassewing has suggest a 750 watt would probably work quite nicely. If you choose a brushless servo motor the more internal coils it has the better the motor. A couple of questions: i) What do you want to sew?? Fabric, Leather ii) What size of thread do want to use?? iii) Which model is this PFAFF machine?? iv) What are they asking for it?? You maybe better off buying a clone with a proper industrial table setup. kgg

I agree with @dikman this is a binding machine. I did look at the spec part of your "Made in China" advertisement: 1) particularly the "Presser Foot Lift" at 15mm. Allowing for a necessary 3mm (1/8") gap from the presser foot to the top of an item being sewn leaves 12mm as a very max sewing thickness, not necessarily leather. Your 12 oz of leather would have a total 4.78 mm ( https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/pages/leather-thickness ) so you would be well within having enough space under the presser foot. 2) the video on the "Made in China" advertisement. Shows this machine as what appears to be needle feed machine not a compound or walking foot machine made for Fabric applications. 3) The only reference I could find about the needle system was it takes system DP 17. The DP17 is the same as needle system as 135 x 16 for leather and 135 x 17 for fabric. I could not find any reference to the max needle size but looking at a PFAFF 335 manual it max out at a #16 (100 metric) which means it can handle V69 thread. 4) Here is a good reference chart for needle to thread size ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) My personal opinion is that this machine is meant to do "Fabric" work of flat binding with no major thickness changes like going from 1.6 mm to 3.2 mm (4 to 8 oz leather) using a max thread size of V69. The machine probably could handle V92 in certain types of materials. Just because you can stuff a # 22 or 23 needle in the needle bar that can take V138 doesn't mean it will have the necessary needle to hook clearance. I think this is the wrong machine for sewing leather of that thickness. To do the job properly and consistently with V138 thread in 12 oz of leather you need in a cylinder arm a Class 341 or 1341 machine like a Juki LS-341 or 1341 or clone. kgg

I don't think link belts will give the proper surface contact with the stock pulleys of the motor, speed reducer or the sewing machine. kgg

Thank you. It has got to be the photo as the belt is a 44 inches belt as measured from the center (#3 of 5 tongue oblong holes) to the belt side of the buckle. The keeper is 3/4" wide. He likes to slide the end of the belt into the first loop on his jeans so that is why I extended the tongue. I have never done it but I guess it could be done with a good skiver or maybe using some leather binding and a binder attachment to add a nice finished edge. kgg

If anyone is going to give a belt a run for it's money, it's my brother. What do you use when gluing leather together?? kgg

I did build a basic no frills leather belt for the brother and just never uploaded the photo's. For this project I used a Techsew 2750 Pro which had no problems sewing two layers of 6.5 oz chrome tan, groaned on three layers but wouldn't do four layers of 6.5 oz of chrome tan. The belt construction: 1) two 1.5" wide strips of 6.5 oz chrome tan. 2) the strips were contact cemented together with Lepage Heavy Duty Contact Cement. This step required two coats of glue as the first coat soaked into the leather. I was going to buy Barges but when I read the instructions it said it may require two coats on porous material. Is Barges that much better then Lepage Heavy Duty Contact Cement??? 3) the belt blank was then sewn with V138 Bonded Polyester along the edges 4) I then 3D printed two hole templates,one for the buckle end and one for the tongue end. I went to get a template and was shocked a the price of templates from free paper ones to $50 acrylic. The problem that I seen with the ones I looked at was they all just laid on top of the leather. This means they can wonder left to right. I guess you could tape them in place on the leather. So me being me I 3D printed two templates that the leather sits in so there is no wonder left to right as I bang the punch through. The buckle end would not have been a problem. The front was another matter when I tried to punch the five 5mm x 8mm oblong holes for the tongue end on a test piece. I got really nice oblong holes equally spaced that looked terrible. Like a duck waddled down the strip of leather. One was cantered left, one to the right and the others weren't much better. 5) Well since chrome tan can't be as far as I know be burnished like veg tan and I am lousy at edge coating I had to come up with something to sort of smooth out the belt edges. So I figured that burnishing lay's the fibers flat and burns the edge. My idea which seems to sort of work would be to try good old fashion "Udder Smooth" on the edges and run my soldering iron with a flat brass insert attachment over the edge. I cranked the soldering iron up to 840 F. See if the brother destroys this 12 - 13 oz real leather belt. Any and all comments are appreciated. kgg

The problem with the Consew in Ontario is they are not a popular / common brand probably because they are a lot more expensive then other brands of similar capabilities. My experience with selling the Consew's that I have owned over the years is that they are very difficult to resell at any price point. You basically got to give them away. As a note it is cheaper to buy a new Consew 206RB-5 from a USA vendor and have it shipped then it is to buy new one in Ontario. The base price of new Consew 206RB in the US would be about $2000 CAD ($1450 USD) vs $3200 CAD ($2300 USD). kgg

A couple of questions. 1) What machine are you using? 2) What size of needle are you using? 3) What size of thread are you using? kgg

I'm assuming you purchased it new so I would suggest giving the vendor a call. kgg

When I realized the date of the original post I edited my post. kgg

@Bugg like @Constabulary has suggested we need a little more info. kgg

I agree with @AlZilla thoughts on tools. This type of dog lead looks really pretty but from my experience it should not be used on trying to control a larger or more powerful dog. Also be careful in choosing the correct weight and width of leather. I find using two layers of 6 or so ounce leather glued together gives a nice smooth surface on both sides. I also stitch both edges the length with V138. I figure this would be good up to about an 80lb dog. Also use #9 copper rivets at the clip end and for connecting the loop to the lead. If you need to make one for a real puller I would suggest incorporating a nylon webbing between the two layers of leather. Just my thoughts. kgg

First question is what size of thread you want to use, then what do you want you stitch to look like and availability. 1) Thread sizing chart from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) 2) Here is a quick look at the appearance of what the needle point will give. I grabbed these from the Techsew website ( https://www.techsew.com/en/blog/needle-buying-guide.html ) i) LR Point --- appears to be the more common point ii) R Point iii) S Point kgg

What size of needle are you using with the V346 thread. Here is a good reference chart for needle size versus thread size. ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) As a note you may have to go up a size depending on how thick and tough the leather is.

Nice simple functional solution. No problem, all good. I get those senility moments all the time. kgg

What size of needle are you using with the V346 thread. Here is a good reference chart for needle size versus thread size. ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) As a note you may have to go up a size depending on how thick and tough the leather is. kgg

Using what you have lying around. Just got to think outside the box. Cost ---- zero dollars. Us frugal people (cheap skates) got to stick together. Any chance of a photo of the vac hookup?? kgg

Great topic as I am am in the process of setting up a Con Sew DSC-4 skiver and installing that is what I was sort of planning on doing. I will be going with the shop vac method since I already have one in the area the skiver will live. My skiver table has a square hole in the table with a metal shute. I really like the setup of the hose on the bottom of your table. I think I will 3D print a new piece to cover the hole and accept the mounting of the vac hose to the opening similar to your setup. kgg

If you have to buy a vacuum I would consider: These would be my choices on this side of the pond. i) Small Wet/Dry Shop Vacuum 10L at $70 from Canadian Tire ( https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-vkd811sw-5-5-peak-hp-stainless-steel-wet-dry-shop-vacuum-with-hose-and-accessories-30-l-0540252p.html?rq=vaccum+cleaner ) ii) Compact Lightweight Bagless Corded Canister Vacuum at $87 from Canadian Tire ( https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/bissell-aeroswift-compact-lightweight-bagless-corded-canister-vacuum-cleaner-0438173p.html?rq=vaccum+cleaner ) Between the two choices the quieter setup would be the canister vacuum. I would mount a Power Bar to the bottom of the table so the power switch is close to the front edge of the table. Then plug both the skiver and the vacuum into it. With both the Shiver and vacuum power switches in the "ON" once you flip the power bar switch both will come "ON" or "OFF" at once. Cost once again from Canadian Tire for about $9. So for about $80 CAD (45 GDP) for a shop vac setup or $96 CAD ( 54 GDP ) you would have a simple setup. kgg

Awfully complicated setup with compressor lines / gauges. Why not just hook a domestic or small shop vac to the end of the hose already going to the bottom of the skiver table? kgg

I just read the original post and answered my own question. kgg

Your guess is good as mine. Beside the obvious incorrect part and setup the overall condition for that era of machine isn't to bad. That however depends on how much the seller is asking. The frame is a excellent old real steel "K" frame, the motor needs to be replaced with a servo motor for better speed control and the noise factor which will cost about $200 CAD. I would consider replacing / upgrading the table top just for looks the table top. The real tell will be when you see the machine, check for slop, missing / broken parts, condition of main drive belt (worn out / dry rot) and rust on the internal parts. How much are they asking for the machine??? kgg

You may want to check to see if you choose: i) the Techsew machine is there any US duty fees / brokerage fees to be added to the cost when importing it into the US?? ii) the Atlas Levy machine is there any State or State to State taxes?? I would call both vendors to see which one meets your needs and who you feel is going to give you the best customer service. If the dollars are the driving factor you may want to consider importing one from Taiwan or China directly. kgg

Nicely done. kgg